2004 XC90 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

joelq · Post by **joelq** » 02 Oct 2013, 19:17

Hi all -

Started to do this, then ran into trouble :-/, so now posting some questions:

1. When removing the lower 7mm hex pin to remove the caliper, there isn't enough room for my 3/8" drive socket and 7mm hex socket. I ended up using a 7mm allen wrench (L-type) which was a pain as I could only go half a turn before I had to pull out and re-insert the wrench into the pin for another turn.

I thought maybe the trick was to get a smaller ratchet, but I can't find a 7mm socket in a 1/4" drive (in stores or online). Is there a better tool, or do I just deal with using the L-type wrench for the lower pin?

2. What's the best way to retract the piston? This is the problem I ran into. I couldn't retract the piston in order to install the new pads. I've read about opening the brake fluid reservoir, and even loosening the bleeder valve, but what's preferred? And does a c-clamp work to push the piston back in? Is there any turning of the piston involved?

Thanks all!

Post by **MoVolvos** » 03 Oct 2013, 11:32

**

This may help. Proceed with caution!!!

2004 Volvo XC90 Rear Brake Repair - Part 1 of 5

Blessings,

BKM

**

joelq · Post by **joelq** » 03 Oct 2013, 14:42

BKM98 S70 T5 wrote:**

This may help. Proceed with caution!!!

2004 Volvo XC90 Rear Brake Repair - Part 1 of 5

Blessings,

BKM

**

Thanks! I did see that series of videos and very informative! The one thing he didn't answer was the proper tool to get the lower pin out as he didn't have the right tool himself. Like me, he didn't have enough space for his 3/8" drive 7mm hex socket.

Thanks!

Post by **MoVolvos** » 04 Oct 2013, 00:10

**

The video mentioned 1/4" Torx 45 or a short 3/8" T45. He may have gone to the store like he said he needed to do. He also removed the Spring and push the Caliper towards the outside of the vehicle. You can use a pair of Channel locks to grip the socket head for turning after getting the T45 Socket into the Caliper Guide Pin.

3/8" Short T45 Lisle.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... word=26630

This one looks even shorter
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CFwQ9QEwAw

Blessings,

BKM

**

Post by **cn90** » 18 Oct 2015, 10:55

For those reading this thread, head the warning re lower Sligin Pin:

Go out and buy both:
- The 7-mm L-shaped wrench and
- The Lisle 3390 tool for $3 at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I just did this REAR brake job and can tell you this:
- The 7-mm wrench inside the 7-mm socket does not work, it does not have enough juice, the wrench may strip.
- The "Allen" brand is a tad too long and does not fit.
- The Lisle 3390 tool fits well.

Ou2mame · Post by **Ou2mame** » 19 Oct 2015, 10:01

I managed to get it out with a torx socket, they are husky brand from home depot. They are fairly short. I got their larger kit that has all the sizes

Post by **cn90** » 19 Oct 2015, 10:28

So, you use a Torx key in a Hex (Allen) bolt?

emmawatson009 · Post by **emmawatson009** » 20 Oct 2015, 06:25

Install an old brake pad as a buffer between the tool and the caliper piston(s). Using a large "C" clamp or channel locks move the piston(s) inward until fully retracted. If a brake caliper utilizes a parking brake mechanism, a caliper reset tool is needed.

Ou2mame · Post by **Ou2mame** » 20 Oct 2015, 13:07

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-a ... /202934844

This is the set that I used to do the rear brakes. If they are Allen bolts that's news to me lol but it worked ill have to take a look next time, but hopefully after doing the ebrakes, rotors, wheel bearings and pads, I won't have to open the back up again for the life of the truck.