DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!

Post by **cn90** » 07 Oct 2013, 12:48

jblackburn,

Great to hear that your friend's car is saved!
It took me a long time to figure out how to solve the PCV system issues using this 5/8-inch heater hose thingy.

rrsteves · Post by **rrsteves** » 07 Oct 2013, 13:03

I just finished this procedure yesterday. Took my own advice and used 5/8 fuel line. It's plenty stiff and won't kink. Heater hose is not "officially" rated for fuel or fuel vapor resistance so it would fail California smog. I do it all the time. It does soften up and could collapse under certain vacuum conditions. However these are not conditions found in our cars in these hoses so no damage done. It was more a matter of "practicing what I preach" in this case. Also until I did the job I realized no one is mentioning disconnecting the EGR valve on California models.

The car was puking oil from the front crank and probably the cam seals in copious amounts. Dry as a bone now. I cleaned the the timing belt with degreaser but I will keep an eye on it. Just replaced it earlier this year and cheaped out. Wish me luck. It is interesting to me how mehanics will take chances with their own cars that they would never allow their clients to... By the way, N/A 850 GLT has at least 250k on it. Odometer broke over 5 years ago with 208k on it.

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 Oct 2013, 13:22

rrsteves wrote:I just finished this procedure yesterday. Took my own advice and used 5/8 fuel line. It's plenty stiff and won't kink. Heater hose is not "officially" rated for fuel or fuel vapor resistance so it would fail California smog. I do it all the time. It does soften up and could collapse under certain vacuum conditions. However these are not conditions found in our cars in these hoses so no damage done. It was more a matter of "practicing what I preach" in this case. Also until I did the job I realized no one is mentioning disconnecting the EGR valve on California models.

The car was puking oil from the front crank and probably the cam seals in copious amounts. Dry as a bone now. I cleaned the the timing belt with degreaser but I will keep an eye on it. Just replaced it earlier this year and cheaped out. Wish me luck. It is interesting to me how mehanics will take chances with their own cars that they would never allow their clients to... By the way, N/A 850 GLT has at least 250k on it. Odometer broke over 5 years ago with 208k on it.

EGR is a pain, but I think it is only on models without an air pump. Mostly 93-some 96 models I believe.

Post by **mtd240** » 08 Oct 2013, 08:14

I recently had some PCV issues after doing this mod (and replacing the whole system), and found the 5/8" heater hose to be kinked. Here is my ghetto solution. Might be nice to use some copper piping/elbows instead - I don't really know how the PVC will hold up.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Oct 2013, 08:28

I like your ghetto white plastic elbow lol!
The white PVC plastic should last you some 5-6 years.

If you look at any hose in any cars, whether it is heater hose, radiator hose or vacuum hose, the mfg's "pre-formed" these hoses around the curves to avoid kinks.

When using generic hose from a bulk, you can bend the hose, but you just have to be careful around any curves and that is all.

As I mentioned previously, I have zero issues because during install, I made sure that there were no kinks anywhere along the hose. The key thing is to cut the hose (where it terminates at the intake) last. This way you always have some slack in the hose before you cut it for final connection at the intake.

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Oct 2013, 09:04

The elbow looks very effective, nice.

Simply choosing a more heavy duty style of bulk hose will really help prevent kinks. 5/8 Fuel line seems to be the way to go, for the reasons mentioned.

db130 · Post by **db130** » 09 Oct 2013, 07:56

For laughs and giggles, does anyone have a picture of such a setup as mentioned on the first post?

"Some people install a snorkel tube out of a modified oil cap ---> intake (ugly looking but works)."

Post by **cn90** » 09 Oct 2013, 10:37

db130 wrote:For laughs and giggles, does anyone have a picture of such a setup as mentioned on the first post?

"Some people install a snorkel tube out of a modified oil cap ---> intake (ugly looking but works)."

See the post by "lookforjoe":

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/12 ... er/page-11

MMT51 · Post by **MMT51** » 01 Nov 2013, 13:42

I’d like to do the heater hose fix on my 2000 S70 GLT, but I'm not sure it will work.

The vent hose is more complex. It runs from the oil trap in 2 directions: to the PTC nipple at the turbo intake, and to the underside of the Intake manifold through some plastic(?) pipe and a banjo fitting.

Instead of a vacuum pipe, there's a coolant line with a banjo fitting, running from the rear of the block (above the PTC area) to the thermostat. I would guess the purpose of the coolant line is to warm the vent hose and prevent condensation in the line.

I’m not having any failure symptoms, but the car has 145,000 miles and the PCV system is probably original. Might this mean the coolant line jacketed with the vent line is working?

Here’s a picture of the vent pipe, the parts diagram, and my take on how it works.

: PCV Hose1.jpg (116.1 KiB) Viewed 3637 times

: PCV Diagram.jpg (142.68 KiB) Viewed 3637 times

: PCV Diagram Color Coded.jpg (265.41 KiB) Viewed 3637 times

The part costs $185.00 and seems to share the same limited flow that CN90 points out in his writeup.

Some people just clean out the tube if it isn’t broken. My plan is to replace all the parts except this vent hose, then clean or replace it as needed. I don’t see a way to improve the flow with 5/8” heater hose due to the restrictions at the banjo fitting.

I’d appreciate any advice about this specific variation of the PCV system, or any suggestions about using heater hose for this.

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!

Re: DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstic