Thank you so much, you've helped tons so far. For a little more clarity and confidence for myself can you please confirm some of the hardware for me?
Black Arrows: Is the location of the location of the bolts going to down pipe?
Green Arrows: Is the location of "flange" being supported into the exhaust manifold by bolts that are securing turbo to the manifold as well.
Blue Arrow: Is this the v-clamp you are speaking of?
So disconnect, bolts to the down pipe (black arrows) and disconnecting the v-clamp (blue arrow) will help me make room for the turbo during removal of engine?
1995 Volvo 850 Auto Engine and transmission Removal Topic is solved
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1995 Volvo 850 Engine & Transmission Removal
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ManManOhMan
- Posts: 124
- Joined: 1 June 2013
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
- Location: chicago
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
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Yes on the anatomy.
The fasteners are all studs with nuts, no bolts per se, so when you loosen it the nuts may come off, or the studs may thread out with the nut locked in place. Either is fine, just pay attention to what is happening.
To disconnect, option 1 is to disconnect only at the black arrows, then the turbo will be free of the down pipe but attached to the manifold. That works and I think it is what jimmy57 recommended, but when pulling the engine by option 1, it can be crowded back near the firewall. You need to watch the turbo and make sure it doesn't get banged up. Of course you need to watch a lot of things, the engine is very heavy and there are safety concerns etc.
Option 2 is to get the turbo out of harm's way before you pull the engine. To do that you would have to remove the v band clamp (one bolt/screw not sure where you access from) and the long arm that runs back to the flange (the arm on the wastegate actuator), plus remove all hoses etc attached to the turbo. I am not recommending option 2, just throwing it out there FYI.
The fasteners are all studs with nuts, no bolts per se, so when you loosen it the nuts may come off, or the studs may thread out with the nut locked in place. Either is fine, just pay attention to what is happening.
To disconnect, option 1 is to disconnect only at the black arrows, then the turbo will be free of the down pipe but attached to the manifold. That works and I think it is what jimmy57 recommended, but when pulling the engine by option 1, it can be crowded back near the firewall. You need to watch the turbo and make sure it doesn't get banged up. Of course you need to watch a lot of things, the engine is very heavy and there are safety concerns etc.
Option 2 is to get the turbo out of harm's way before you pull the engine. To do that you would have to remove the v band clamp (one bolt/screw not sure where you access from) and the long arm that runs back to the flange (the arm on the wastegate actuator), plus remove all hoses etc attached to the turbo. I am not recommending option 2, just throwing it out there FYI.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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ManManOhMan
- Posts: 124
- Joined: 1 June 2013
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
- Location: chicago
Thank you, option-1 sounds like a better approach! To my understanding there is two sets of lines running to the turbo and about 4 vacuum hoses running from the turbo or is it 3.
I'm definitely going to go back down to the car in about an hour and scope everything out. Today, I hope to to have everything disconnected from the turbo including all the necessary belt driven components and transmission components/hook ups.
Maybe I'm making somethings out to be more than they are but I wouldn't dare to leave the transmission in there right now or to disconnect it inside the frame.
I'm definitely going to go back down to the car in about an hour and scope everything out. Today, I hope to to have everything disconnected from the turbo including all the necessary belt driven components and transmission components/hook ups.
Maybe I'm making somethings out to be more than they are but I wouldn't dare to leave the transmission in there right now or to disconnect it inside the frame.
- osman
- Posts: 405
- Joined: 20 January 2012
- Year and Model: 2002 c70 hardtop
- Location: san marcos texas
- Been thanked: 1 time
Bought an 98 XC70 AWD/Turbo for $500 thinking it needed a headgasket. Tore it down to the head and found two cracked cylinder walls, 3 & 4. So now i guess Im off to the picknpull but I dont want to pay $200 for a whole motor when I really just need the block. Anything I need to know before I attempt removing the old block replacing it with a good one then replacing my cylinder head and cam tower/cover?
Brick Life
2003 Saab 9-5 ARC V6 3.0 Turbo 120K SwagWagon
97 850R wagon mileage unknown
2000 C70 Turbo Convertible 110K
99 XC70 AWD LPT 115
98 BMW 328IS 130K M3 Wheels
94 Mercedes 420E 160K
Kiwi bluetooth/Torq Pro app VOL-FCR/VAG-COM USB cable
2003 Saab 9-5 ARC V6 3.0 Turbo 120K SwagWagon
97 850R wagon mileage unknown
2000 C70 Turbo Convertible 110K
99 XC70 AWD LPT 115
98 BMW 328IS 130K M3 Wheels
94 Mercedes 420E 160K
Kiwi bluetooth/Torq Pro app VOL-FCR/VAG-COM USB cable
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
I would rebuild the whole replacement engine outside of the car. Put the good block on an engine stand and go to work. The head install/assembly will be much easier. Likely you will need someone to hold the stand when you torque the head bolts.
Pulling an AWD engine/trans will have several differences from the procedure posted here, I have never done one.
Be sure to replace the rear man seal on the replacement engine. Put it all back together, including the turbo and the transmission, then lower it into the car.
Pulling an AWD engine/trans will have several differences from the procedure posted here, I have never done one.
Be sure to replace the rear man seal on the replacement engine. Put it all back together, including the turbo and the transmission, then lower it into the car.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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chashiubow
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 9 February 2011
- Year and Model: 850 turbo wagon x2
- Location: SFO
Old thread bump.
Re-visiting steps as I doing another engine transmission swap. Thanks again for the detail instructions.
Re-visiting steps as I doing another engine transmission swap. Thanks again for the detail instructions.
2005 XC90
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850TurboTurtle
- Posts: 279
- Joined: 2 August 2011
- Year and Model: 96 850T, 05 S80T6
- Location: Tacoma WA
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
Hi Wheelsup - I'm following your tutorial to put a new (used) tranny in my 850. It has been an incredible help to a noob like me. One question though: why did you remove the intake manifold? It looks like there is room to remove the engine with it attached. Is that true, or do things shift when removing it so you have to take it off? Thanks, Rick
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
You can get the engine out with the intake attached, for example I have seen pics of engine installs with the manifold on. But I just did an engine swap about 3 weeks ago; removing it makes access to the wiring harness at the starter and knock sensors etc much easier, makes it easier to watch the radiator and access the AC compressor that you have to fiddle with (leave the compressor connected and in the car). It just opens up a ton more room in general, I always take it off.
Last edited by erikv11 on 24 Aug 2015, 06:57, edited 1 time in total.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
-
850TurboTurtle
- Posts: 279
- Joined: 2 August 2011
- Year and Model: 96 850T, 05 S80T6
- Location: Tacoma WA
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 5 times
OK, thanks. Sounds like less work to remove it than fiddle around it. Should the intake mani gaskets be reusable? New, just 6 months on them.erikv11 wrote:It just opens up a ton more room in general, I always take it off.
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
- Been thanked: 765 times
I would re-use one 6 months old, yes, if it was my own car.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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