I have a 2004 v70 non turbo that has come under some recent issues and I have searched and received a ton of knowledge on this site. But I am at a crossroads. Rear passenger door does not lock/unlock using the fob or button on driver control. I just picked up a used module from junk yard. Fuel filler door lock will not unlock, it does lock using the fob and driver control. This was the 1st problem and I tried to fix. removed little motor, took apart, cleaned, tried to find matching mabuchi motor. Now the rear wiper does not work. no clicking or grinding. The spray nozzle DOES work. So I picked up a used fuel filler motor and hooked it up, and the same thing, the motor will lock using fob or driver control but not unlock. I realize the possibility of that motor also being faulty, but what are the odds? So now before I start taking motors out of my rear wiper and passenger rear door (tough for me), am I looking at a wiring issue? Can someone please direct me checks I can run to determine this? I have the wiring diagram for cargo compartment harness, but could use some more direction. I do not want to buy more motors if I need some new wiring. Thank you
Jon
2004 v70 multiple-fuel door,rear pass. door,rear wiper motor
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DrJammer
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2004 v70 multiple-fuel door,rear pass. door,rear wiper motor
Ex-Volvos
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
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DrJammer
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Thank you for the input, chrism, I just came across that same link from you in a forum titled '2003 V70 - help with REM blowing fuse'
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 2&p=263989
i'll check on some wiring
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 2&p=263989
i'll check on some wiring
Ex-Volvos
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
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chrism
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DrJammer,
I responded to your message but I think my login timed-out before I hit send.
This is done on the LH (REM) side of the car. You have to remove the speaker grill and speaker. that will expose whatever is necessary to loosen the plastic trim panel and find the harness disconnect. On my car the harness was anchored in place with a tie wrap near the disconnect that I had to snip loose. I'm not sure, but you may need to pull loose the trim piece that runs across the car above the rear hatch - or at least the LH end of it. Once the harness is diconnected you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the car body through the hole that the hinge arm passes through. You will also have to remove the plastic piece that's attached to the hinge arm in order to completely free up the harness. You may not need to remove the inner hatch panel - I'm not sure.
Sorry my memory doesn't serve me better.
I responded to your message but I think my login timed-out before I hit send.
This is done on the LH (REM) side of the car. You have to remove the speaker grill and speaker. that will expose whatever is necessary to loosen the plastic trim panel and find the harness disconnect. On my car the harness was anchored in place with a tie wrap near the disconnect that I had to snip loose. I'm not sure, but you may need to pull loose the trim piece that runs across the car above the rear hatch - or at least the LH end of it. Once the harness is diconnected you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the car body through the hole that the hinge arm passes through. You will also have to remove the plastic piece that's attached to the hinge arm in order to completely free up the harness. You may not need to remove the inner hatch panel - I'm not sure.
Sorry my memory doesn't serve me better.
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mikealder
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This might give you a few ideas but I hope yours isn't as bad as this one turned out to be, all started with the tailgate hinge portion wiring that shorted out and took out quite a bit of wiring, took a couple of days to resolve fully but the car is working again. The text in italics is from another post I made covering this issue last weekend:
This should serve as a reminder to anyone with an estate to check the wiring at the tailgate hinge point:

The above damage at the hinge point caused the wiring feeding the number plate lights to connect to the rear wiper motor wiring, this overloaded quite a bit of wiring which got hot and burned through the insulation on quite a few wires in the rear of the car, by the time the fuses blew the damage had been done:

With the above mess sorted out with a mixture of new cable soldered/ spliced in to replace the damaged bits, the brake lights were still on all the time, it looks like +12V has got on to the link wire between the CEM and the REM for brake light control. The green/ yellow wire on pin A4 going to the REM had burn marks through its insulation so it was certainly damaged by the other wires. This short circuit has either welded one of the PCB mounted relays in the CEM or blown the electronics responsible for driving the brakelights within the CEM.
With a damaged CEM going to cost a bloody fortune I decided to bypass it adding a new wire from the brakelight switch in to the rear of the car which energised a new relay that provided the input to the REM for the brakelights. Whilst this isn't standard the car still has centre brakelight and both outer lights which are still bulb failure monitored.
The only part that isn't working is the tailgate unlock solenoid which is getting all the correct signals to fire it over in both directions but it refuses to work, new part required to replace the burnt out solenoid. - Mike
This should serve as a reminder to anyone with an estate to check the wiring at the tailgate hinge point:

The above damage at the hinge point caused the wiring feeding the number plate lights to connect to the rear wiper motor wiring, this overloaded quite a bit of wiring which got hot and burned through the insulation on quite a few wires in the rear of the car, by the time the fuses blew the damage had been done:

With the above mess sorted out with a mixture of new cable soldered/ spliced in to replace the damaged bits, the brake lights were still on all the time, it looks like +12V has got on to the link wire between the CEM and the REM for brake light control. The green/ yellow wire on pin A4 going to the REM had burn marks through its insulation so it was certainly damaged by the other wires. This short circuit has either welded one of the PCB mounted relays in the CEM or blown the electronics responsible for driving the brakelights within the CEM.
With a damaged CEM going to cost a bloody fortune I decided to bypass it adding a new wire from the brakelight switch in to the rear of the car which energised a new relay that provided the input to the REM for the brakelights. Whilst this isn't standard the car still has centre brakelight and both outer lights which are still bulb failure monitored.
The only part that isn't working is the tailgate unlock solenoid which is getting all the correct signals to fire it over in both directions but it refuses to work, new part required to replace the burnt out solenoid. - Mike
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DrJammer
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Thank you for those photos and additional info. I have searched for damage in the left hinge area, found none, and I tried taking the panels off around the inside cargo area edge (sliced hand). Everything behind the speaker panel and running under the inner bumper looked fine. So by studying wire diagrams, should I be approaching the REM, where these 3 issues may split off from? I tried the battery unhook/hookup with key in position II, no luck. So I feel like I am still not looking far enough back to REM. Here is the following info I have come across and I am not sure how to use it. I will double check the orindary fuses of 1 (REM at 10A), 8 (central locking, fuel filler door at 20A), and 12 (tailgate wiper at 15A).
Searching some more I have come across relay info:
REM 4/58
right hand rear door 2/139 dead lock entry
RMI13 - relay, rear windor wiper 2/72
RMI21 - unlocking relay, fuel filler door 2/59
RMI23 - unlocking relay, RH rear 2/114
RMI24 - locking relay, RH 2/113
I am not sure what to do with this info and am hoping to find a junction area and more info on relay repair on MVS, but if anyone has a direct link or advise how to approach REM stuff. I am no electrician, but I can check fuses, small solder/repairs. Just cross issues off the list in hopes to find the coennection/wiring/relay problem
Searching some more I have come across relay info:
REM 4/58
right hand rear door 2/139 dead lock entry
RMI13 - relay, rear windor wiper 2/72
RMI21 - unlocking relay, fuel filler door 2/59
RMI23 - unlocking relay, RH rear 2/114
RMI24 - locking relay, RH 2/113
I am not sure what to do with this info and am hoping to find a junction area and more info on relay repair on MVS, but if anyone has a direct link or advise how to approach REM stuff. I am no electrician, but I can check fuses, small solder/repairs. Just cross issues off the list in hopes to find the coennection/wiring/relay problem
Ex-Volvos
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
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DrJammer
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Well in my zig zag quest for the odd issues I face, I am still on the move. So in the wiring diagrams, it appears the rear wiper motor is the black wire coming from the 54/78 connector in the pillar. The only other thing running off this wire is the license plate lights, which are working. I did have to replace a license plate bulb last year. There is a relay in the engine compartment for rear window washer motor as FMI4. Is there a way to test this a la jumper style like an older model fuel pump relay?
Same question for the RMI21 relay in the cargo compartment for the fuel filler flap-unlock. I was told by the indy mechanic to not just switch relays to test as that can make finding the problem a lot harder if I were to take it in for a computer hook up.
Thank you
Same question for the RMI21 relay in the cargo compartment for the fuel filler flap-unlock. I was told by the indy mechanic to not just switch relays to test as that can make finding the problem a lot harder if I were to take it in for a computer hook up.
Thank you
Ex-Volvos
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
2004 v70 N/A - traded in at 75k
2008 S60 - leased
1998 S70 T5 - might still have her if I knew about this forum when I owned it
- abscate
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..and for those who are wondering why you have to be rich and own an estate.....
Estate is "down under" and also "Queens English" for station wagon.
Now go kick your tyres....
Estate is "down under" and also "Queens English" for station wagon.
Now go kick your tyres....
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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