1998 Volvo S70 GLT - Timing Belt Tensioner - Failed bearing

pauleads · Post by **pauleads** » 04 Nov 2013, 18:06

I'm looking for some advice. I'm not a mechanic so it's hard for me to determine whether all of this work is necessary and fairly priced. My son drives this car now and yesterday when he started it the engine was rattling so loudly that I told him to shut it down and I had it towed to a repair shop that specializes in Volvos. I got the following news on my car today:

Timing Belt Tensioner has failed Bearing, broke in pieces.
Timing Cover damaged.
Recommend Timing Belt Kit, 2 Cam Seals, Crank Seal, Water Pump, Thermostat, Timing Cover & Coolant.
Also recommend Serpentine Belt cracked. Transmission Cooler Upper Hose leaking at Radiator. Recommend to replace both Hoses at this time.
TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP KIT $348.38 CAM SEALS $16.95 X2 CRANK SEAL $7.95 COOLANT $20.00 DRIVE BELT $38.44 TIMING COVER $57.93 LABOR $500.00 = $1006.60 + TAX
INLET A/T COOLING HOSE $128.69 OUTLET A/T COOLING HOSE $128.69 LABOR $100.00 = $357.38 +TAX
THERMOSTAT $18.72 GASKET $1.95 LABOR $100.00 = $120.67 + TAX
TOTAL $1584.65 +TAX

The car has 130,000 miles on it. Opinions on next steps?

Also, the cam cover housing is leaking oil. This shop said I would need to go to a speciality shop for that that they can refer me to. How much should that repair cost?

Your opinions and assistance is greatly appreciated.

Post by **rspi** » 04 Nov 2013, 19:30

Well, it doesn't sound like they specialize in Volvo's.

This is what I would tell them to do...

1. Set up the timing.
2. Install a new tensioner.
3. Start the car and see if it is missing, or simply do a compression test.

When these cars jump time, they damage the head. If the car was still running, there is a chance that it didn't jump time. So, installing a new tensioner and starting the car will tell you and them if the car actually jumped time and bent valves. If the head has bent valves, it will have LOW compression. Compression should be between 156 - 186.

If the car jumped time, and valves are bent, someone will have to pull the head, send it to a machine shop and fix it before it goes back on. That will cost more than $2,000 at a shop.

If you guys want to, you can have the car delivered back to the house and people here can walk you through all this to save you money if money is an issue.

Post by **rspi** » 04 Nov 2013, 19:38

Now, by chance the car did NOT jump time, and the motor is NOT damaged, then you can decide what work you will need to have done to it.

Do you know if the timing belt was ever changed?

I wonder if the car actually has a cam cover oil leak or if the PCV system is so clogged that it is dumping oil on top of the motor (under the spark plug cover)?

Post by **rspi** » 04 Nov 2013, 19:40

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Nov 2013, 19:52

Actually, my guess is the shop probably at least knows a bit about Volvos, so that they simply looked at the marks and they know it didn't jump time.

Depending in where you live, those prices are typical to a little higher than average for most of the work being done. You could do it all yourself for maybe $550, and probably end up with better quality parts installed to boot.

There is no reason to replace the A/T line that is not leaking. Depending on how bad the leak is, there may not be a pressing need to replace the one that is. We would have to see the leak. This is a fairly easy DIY job, the only difficulty for a beginner is the parts are a little hard to reach and slightly novel connectors are used (not typical nuts and bolts). There is a guy on this forum who is fantastic and rebuilds A/T lines for like $30 each.

Timing cover I would just get one from a junkyard.

The crank seal (especially) and front cam seals (maybe) I'm not sure need replacing, that sounds gratuitous but I'd have to see the engine.

The rest of the timing job I'd go with their recommended parts.

The thermostat job is way overpriced and pretty simple, that one can be done at home for about $20. I'd recommend doing as they suggest.

If this were my car, I would probably get it fixed. I assume it is in good condition from the low mileage. There is no way you will get a car of similar condition for $1500. But I cringe at those figures - just a little DIY could save you a lot of money.

Post by **rspi** » 04 Nov 2013, 20:10

erikv11 wrote:Actually, my guess is the shop probably at least knows a bit about Volvos, so that they simply looked at the marks and they know it didn't jump time.

We all know what happens when we assume...

pauleads · Post by **pauleads** » 04 Nov 2013, 20:25

Timing belt was changed at 60k several years ago. I appreciate the responses. I'm leaning to getting it done but just not sure that I couldn't get by with just the belt and tensioner.

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Nov 2013, 21:01

rspi wrote:
erikv11 wrote:Actually, my guess is the shop probably at least knows a bit about Volvos, so that they simply looked at the marks and they know it didn't jump time.
We all know what happens when we assume...

I don't get it at all. Who's assuming here, you with "well it doesn't sound like ...," or me with "my guess is ..." ???

Post by **cn90** » 05 Nov 2013, 07:34

I have the same car with 160K miles...

If the timing marks on the TB are still on, then you are lucky b/c there is no need to remove the cylinder head.

So, ask the shop to verify that your engine is not damaged yet.

Then read the thread below:
DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt, WP, Cam Seals, SB Overhaul
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53722

------------
The bottom line for parts: it will cost you about $300, labor separate.

PARTS For 1998 S70 GLT

- TB Kit from Volvo (TB, Idler Pulley, Tensioner, Plastic Collar)….PN 30758260…$110.
This is cheaper than buying individual parts!

- WP (Aisin) from eeuroparts.com….…$80.
Optional: new WP bolts; also new thermostat is a good idea at this mileage.

- Front Cam Seals x2…Volvo PN 6842272…$16…you need 2.
(Alternate is SKF 17806…Napa auto parts $15.)

- Serpentine Belt: Conti 6PK1743 (Autohausaz.com)…$21

- Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley (PN 9146139…$39) and Tensioner Pulley (PN 272136…$29).
Volvo OEM.

PS: Where are you located?

pauleads · Post by **pauleads** » 05 Nov 2013, 12:31

I'm in the Modesto, CA area. Thanks to some of the replies I received to my questions I confirmed that a compression test was done and there is no damage to the engine or valves. I also talked with a co-worker and he pointed me in the direction of another mechanic that is semi-retired and has a small shop 20 miles away. Without seeing the car his estimate was approx. $1,000 and he is also able to do the PCV clog if that's what is causing the oil leak.Would you have part numbers and cost for the A/T hoses?