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DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mods

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Re: DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mods

Post by kickin_it »

Red font being pressure that is sucked away by vacuum created by green font while oil drips by gravity with blue font.

difflock54
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Year and Model: V40 Nordic 2002
Location: Wellington. New Zealand.
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Post by difflock54 »

Gravity return from the trap back into the engine as denoted in blue, I assume for the oil would be essential.
The upper engine block opening is providing relief for positive crankcase pressure in the block itself.

kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Post by kickin_it »

As long as the oil can drip back to the sump, relocation of the entire trap system is possible.

kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Post by kickin_it »

Just a bit of an update. My first go-round did not go well, the cheap heater hose became kinked, positive pressure ensued, and I have now blown another seal, more than likely the front cam that I just repaired. I picked up some 5/8"ID Gates fuel hose from the local Irish parts store. I have since broken and repaired my trap, replaced my lines, rerouted lines, snapped pics and cranked the car. The car passes the rubber glove test with flying colors and is sucking the glove in BUT I still have the oil leak to address.

This is a shot of the culprit hoses that were kinked causing the massive amount of pressure. Do not use cheap hoses, it will only make things more expensive. I used cheap hoses and have now blown my front cam seals, hopefully just those.
PCV Mod Heater Hose Mistake
PCV Mod Heater Hose Mistake
A shot with the manifold removed. Shows obvious kink in right hose and whats left of a kink on the left hose after I had to straighten it to remove the intake. It appears the right hose may have been too long. The left hose was just a poor choice of routing and has since been corrected. Stay tuned.
Kinked Hoses, Intake Removed
Kinked Hoses, Intake Removed
I was removing the oil trap and snapped the top off. Who knew the trap was empty? Appears the pressure build up weakened the top as the two pieces had edges where the break occurred, almost like it had been cut...
Empty Trap
Empty Trap
Here is the "edge" I am referring to. It looks like soft oil but it was actually very hard and basically snapped off and it was on the outside of the trap. Yikes, lots of pressure apparently. The trap was cleaned up and repaired/sealed with JB Weld.
Trap "Edge"
Trap "Edge"
Here is the repaired trap. It ain't pretty but works great. New Gates 5/8"ID fuel lines attached.
JB Weld Trap top and new hoses
JB Weld Trap top and new hoses
Closer look. I like the screw clamps but they do take up more space. Notice orientation of screw face facing the front of the trap as to be accessible when trap is on the front of the block. Just a tip.
Screw clamps facing front of trap
Screw clamps facing front of trap
Trap attached to block showing the important curve on the right hose. Keep the curve nice and open and just below the bottom intake manifold screws. The intake has a "channel" that's perfect or the hose.
Mounted trap, connected hoses
Mounted trap, connected hoses
This is the intake channel that the hose basically fits in. The arrows mark the channel. The hose that you see is the MOD I decided to try. It is 5/8"ID hose from the left trap orifice that routes to the top of the cam cover. I had to relocate this hose to run in-between cylinders 1 and 2 instead of the factory 2 and 3 setup.
Channel and hose
Channel and hose
Routed the house around and under and over and around again down to the PTC nipple. Follow the red dash lines.
route
route
I think that's about it.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

While I admire that you spent this much time doing the PCV, if you followed the DIY I wrote a while back, you didn't have to go through this mess:
- One can re-use the oil trap. I see that you cut it open, then re-glue it...I can only hope that the glue lasts under engine heat, or may be it is a matter of time when the glue falls apart.
- The heater hose, I like your idea of routing it ABOVE the intake manifold. If you use solid 5/8-inch heater hose and route it carefully, you will not have kink. I clearly mentioned it in the DIY.

Anyway, I admire you for spending so much time fiddling with the PCV.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

kickin_it
Posts: 213
Joined: 27 October 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
Location: Franklin, Tennesse

Post by kickin_it »

cn90 wrote:While I admire that you spent this much time doing the PCV, if you followed the DIY I wrote a while back, you didn't have to go through this mess:
I did follow your tutorial and I went further using the 5/8" hose for the cam cover.
cn90 wrote:- One can re-use the oil trap. I see that you cut it open, then re-glue it...I can only hope that the glue lasts under engine heat, or may be it is a matter of time when the glue falls apart.
I did reuse the trap and I did not cut the trap open, it snapped when I tried to remove a hose.
cn90 wrote:- The heater hose, I like your idea of routing it ABOVE the intake manifold. If you use solid 5/8-inch heater hose and route it carefully, you will not have kink. I clearly mentioned it in the DIY.
I did not route anything above the intake. I used 5/8" fuel line as an upgrade and it worked just fine as I CLEARLY MENTIONED in my DIY addition.
cn90 wrote:Anyway, I admire you for spending so much time fiddling with the PCV.
Not sure I am as aware as your admiration as you claim, but thanks, I guess.

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