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Horrible whining noise, yikes!

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VolvoQueen
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Horrible whining noise, yikes!

Post by VolvoQueen »

Well now I have another problem, which I just noticed today. The weather HAS gotten quite cold (it was 70 on Friday and dropped to the 40s this weekend, I'm in NJ) but I'm not sure if that's related or not, or just coincidence. Anyway, I own a 1990 740 GL and the mileage is about 195k rounded out. While driving today I noticed a terrible whining noise. It goes exactly in synch with the car's acceleration.....(sounds like the car might explode sometimes as you get higher in speed)....and as I de-accelerate it winds down in that awful way, sounding like a machine with a dying battery.
My battery is quite new, it was replaced in the summer when my old one was causing start-up problems.
My own immediate thoughts were the alternator or transmission. The car seemed fine the whole trip otherwise, I had no problems starting, accelerating, shifting, or whatnot, it just made an awful whining noise and unfortunately it seems to rapidly be getting worse. By the time I got home it was quite bad and worrisome.
The most recent work done on the car was rear brakes (including rotors) and a replaced passenger side taillight assembly. Doubt that has anything to do with it but I just wanted to mention it.
Thanks in advance!

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Post by MadeInJapan »

Where is the sound coming from? What comes to mind is a service belt...but then again I don't know RWD Volvo's.
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VolvoQueen
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Post by VolvoQueen »

Sorry, forgot to pinpoint that. To the best of my knowledge, it sounds like it is coming from the front around the passenger side. It's very noticeable in the cabin when driving. The AC is not on when this happens, just to add that. (Besides it was far too cold out, lol, and my AC doesn't even work very well.)

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

A further question to try to eliminate some things.

Does it make the noise when the car is stationary but idling?

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

VolvoQueen
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Post by VolvoQueen »

Nope, the sound is only when accelerating/deaccelerating. The only sound you can hear when the car is idling is a slight squeakiness in the belts, as they probably need replacing. (Though I did have them changed last year...)

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

The squeak from the belts can be eliminated by pouring a small amount of water on them as they rotate - it is not a permanent cure but it helps to eliminate noises when doing a diagnosis. A slight squeak at idle can become worse when the engine accelerates. How long is it since the belts were replaced? Have they been adjusted since then?

When the rear brakes were replaced were the front brakes checked? I am thinking of a sticky caliper stopping the pads retracting. Is there any sign of heating of the passenger side front wheel or any smell of hot brakes?

I've thrown several possibilities at you because they are what I would check myself before assuming the worst.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

VolvoQueen
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Post by VolvoQueen »

billofdurham wrote:The squeak from the belts can be eliminated by pouring a small amount of water on them as they rotate - it is not a permanent cure but it helps to eliminate noises when doing a diagnosis. A slight squeak at idle can become worse when the engine accelerates. How long is it since the belts were replaced? Have they been adjusted since then?

When the rear brakes were replaced were the front brakes checked? I am thinking of a sticky caliper stopping the pads retracting. Is there any sign of heating of the passenger side front wheel or any smell of hot brakes?

I've thrown several possibilities at you because they are what I would check myself before assuming the worst.

Bill.
The front brakes were indeed checked but they are fine, I had them done not too long before the rear brakes. The calipers are possible since I don't know the last time they were replaced (although I'm sure the mechanic checks that when doing brake repairs?) but it doesn't make any sense. How is a horrible whining noise coming from the engine compartment (or at least as I assume) having any relation to the brakes? (I'm not a car expert at all so you'll have to forgive me, lol) This is a distinct whining sound, not a squeak or groan, that is in synch with the acceleration of the car. It sounds like something working way too hard and not functioning normally (hence my fear of the alternator going) and since the water pump is new, I doubt it could be that. Though I suppose that's not impossible. I cannot do the things you've mentioned because I don't know anything about fixing cars myself. I have some knowledge of cars and how they work (by asking the mechanics I've been to questions and online research) but I have no idea how to do checks myself. Im only asking so that when I see the mechanic I can tell him what I suspect and what I've been told, which is a good tactic to avoid getting overcharged or having things replaced which really don't need replacing.
This car has cost me a lot of money this year and it seems she is suffering with Old Age syndrome. :( Unfortunately many parts are seemingly wearing out all at once.
I appreciate your advice Bill. But what would be your greatest suspicion? Alternator? Transmission? (I've heard about something called an alternator bearing as well and even tire bearings that can cause a whining sound.) Sorry for the long post!

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

The calipers are possible since I don't know the last time they were replaced (although I'm sure the mechanic checks that when doing brake repairs?)
I would hope he would check them, but nothing is certain with some mechanics, but they can go between checks. I was not suggesting this was the problem, just a possibility, but it is hard to give a diagnosis without actually hearing the noise.

I now realise that the sound is more than likely engine/transmission related so I think the first thing to do is eliminate the possibility of it being the drive belts. You don't need any mechanical knowledge or skill to do this. With the engine stopped locate the centre point on the longest run of each belt then, with firm finger pressure, press down on the belt. The belt should not move more than half an inch. For the belt running the AC this should not be more than a quarter inch. If the movement is more than this on any belt get them checked and adjusted.

If the tension is correct one of the belts may still be the cause as they dry out with age. Start the engine and, if the belts are squeaking, rev up the engine and see if the noise gets worse. There is no need to redline the rev counter, just take it up to about 3000 rpm and hold it for about 20 seconds. If the squeak does not turn into the noise you have heard then it is not the belts, nor would I think it would be the alternator. If the noise appears, reduce the revs to idle speed and pour about a half pint of cold water onto the belts - watch out for flying spray. The squeak should stop. Now take it back up to about 3000 rpm and hold it for about 20 seconds and check for the noise. If the noise is there then have the alternator and water pump checked.

If you can't get the noise to appear when the car is stationary then it is most likely not engine related.
tire bearings that can cause a whining sound


I think you mean wheel bearings, and yes, they can make a very loud whine as they start to go. Sometimes you will also feel a vibration through the steering, but not always. Again you can check this if you can jack up the front wheel of the car. No need to remove the wheel and definitely no need to go under the car, therefore, no danger to you. Start by rotating the wheel and listen for any whining noise (you will hear the brake pads rubbing against the rotors but this should not be too loud). Next grasp the tyre at the top and bottom and try rocking the wheel by pulling and pushing the tyre. A bearing that is going out will be noticeable by the wheel moving backwards and forwards. A good bearing will allow little or no movement.

Finally transmission and I need to ask auto or manual?

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

VolvoQueen
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Post by VolvoQueen »

Wow thanks for the advice there. I had taken the car to a Volvo specialist yesterday and of course the noise did not happen for him. There was still this hollow, airy noise coming from the same right-hand side of the car, but no whining. I'm doubting this is the engine or trans myself, as the car seems fine, the noise was not causing any trouble with the car. I think the mechanic said he suspected something called a drive shaft (bearing?) he was saying so many things and to be honest I had little idea what he was talking about. (lol)
Of course every time I see this guy I get quoted some $1k for work. He was saying I need shocks and front bushings and all this stuff. May be true but I wonder why it is mechanics think you are made out of money. :roll: I already told him too about all the work I had done this year.
Oh and the car is an automatic.

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

Cars going to mechanics are like teeth going to the dentist - the problems disappear when they get there.

If the noise was coming from the front it is not a drive shaft bearing as the drive shafts are down the other end - rear wheel drive.

It may be a wheel bearing and he should have been able to check that as I indicated in my previous post. Did he do any checks like that described?

As for the other stuff - it may well need replacing but, if there are no noises, vibrations or wobbles coming from the front end, I would leave them until you sort out your main problem.
I had taken the car to a Volvo specialist
This type of diagnosis and repair does not need a Volvo specialist, it is the same on all cars and any competent mechanic would do it. Ask around among your friends and find out who does their work and how satisfied they are. I have found over many years that is the best way to find a good repair shop. The small business relies on word of mouth advertising and only gets it through satisfied customers.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

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