Any fuel leak is serious business, i.e., safety issue.
I could not find any DIY on the internet, so here you go.
I did not have much free time and had to fix this with about 12 gallons of fuel = not fun!!! It was a struggle with one floor jack, I had to use 2nd jack to help support the tank.
Best is to fix this when the gas tank has about 2-3 gallons, you don’t want an empty gas tank b/c of risk of damage to fuel pump. So 2-3 gallons is best.
Parts needed:
Gasket PN 6842188: $12.50
One-way Valve PN 9135119: $12.50
PROCEDURE
1. See the Fuel Leak:
2. The clamps (3531428, qty = 2 per car) , I re-used them as they don’t look too bad.
3. Raise the RR tire side and set on jack stand, search forum for the proper locations. The 3-ton jack stand, even at its lowest setting worked fine for me.
Or drive RR tire on some wood ramps.
4. Open the gas door, remove the two (2) Torx screws. Look down and you will see the metal ring that keeps the rubber seal in place. This rubber seal is an integral part of the filler tube. Right behind it is another rubber seal that you can simply remove out of the groove.
5. Go the trunk and d/c all electrical connectors. Use a small screwdriver to GENTLY pry the tabs to undo the connectors.
Also, remove the 10-mm bolts on the metal clamps. Note the clamp orientation for re-installation.
6. The straps for gas tank: undo the two (2) 12-mm bolts, one toward the rear of the car and one near the exhaust. No need to undo any other bolts.
This is the problem when you have 12 gallons in the tank, is slides off the jack, it probably weighs some 80 lbs. Later I had to use another jack to lift it up.
BTW, use a piece of plywood and spread it the load to avoid damage to the gas tank.
7. In order to d/c the filler pipe from the tank, you need to d/c all 3 fuel hoses as in the photo, there are 3 connections to undo. Note the hose #2 runs under the fuel pump hoses. You need to undo the plastic strap (press it down and slide it out of the slit) to free up the hoses so #2 can slide out.
NOTE: during install, make sure you put this strap back to hold down the fuel hoses.
8. Note the orientation of the 1-way valve. The trick for the rubber seal: apply some fresh oil to ease insertion. Insert the rubber seal into the gas tank first but stop at about 80% in, leaving about 1 inch gap, i.e., don’t fully insert it. Now oil the filler pipe and insert it in.
Note: Don’t install the clamps until the very end, this way you allow the filler pipe to move a bit during installation. In other words, you want to avoid damage to the gas tank neck!
17. NOTE: The “Service Campaign 39/40 thingy”: remove the heat shield, if there is no leak at the Torx screw site, add a rubber seal or plastic washer (to prevent future crack of the tank), the install the Torx screw gently (i.e., snug only), no need for force as this may break the screw area. If this break happens, you need a new (hopefully free) gas tank from Volvo.
Re-installation Note: go SLOW, watch the tank goes up (using floor jack), then go the trunk to check for the wiring, strap, connections (remember to re-connect the 3 hoses that you disconnected earlier!).
If you pay attention to detail, then this job should not take more than 2h.
Go to gas station and fill it up to make sure there is no leak.
Enjoy a leak-free tank = priceless!






