99 s70 pads and rotors

wolf · Post by **wolf** » 07 Dec 2006, 20:43

okay, i know a month or two ago i posted about squeeling brake pads, but i had another question. I dont know that much about cars, but i am going to try my best in putting in new rear and front pads and rotors because they seem to be about time for all 4.

I am just gonna go with oem pads, from what i have heard they make more dust, but normally don't squeel as bad and don't destroy rotors. I have a friend that is a mechanic and he says "rotors are rotors, pads are important" so he is telling me to just go pick up the autozone rotos for like 15 or 20 bucks a piece. Does that seem okay?

Could someone help explain to me about the shims and silicone grease? If i am just buying the oem pads from the dealership, can i save myself from ordering online and buy the grease and shims from the dealership, if they sell them? If not, where could i buy them? MadeInJapan said to use plenty of slilcone grease between the pad and shim on the rear, how much is plenty, just like glob a bunch on there? And do the shims only go on the rear?

Sorry for so many questions, i am trying to learn! I really appreciate everyones help and patience since i know so little about cars.

If anyone has any other tips for me on the whole brake pad and caliper change procedure i would appreciate it. Will the front be much different than the back?

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

josh

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Dec 2006, 21:41

You can try the regular auto shop rotors...I haven't heard good or bad about them. OEM is Brembo or Zimmerman. People like these as you don't hardly hear of them warping. The pads you can get from www.fcpgroton.com and save yourself some money....and they also sell the grease....only shims in the rears...you have the right idea...glop it on and spread it around. Also make sure there is plenty between the caliper and pad. Good luck.

wolf · Post by **wolf** » 07 Dec 2006, 22:41

so it goes pad<shim<caliper correct?

and do i put grease between the pad-shim, and shim-caliper? or just between the pad-shim or pad-caliper. Haha, sorry if that was confusing.

wolf · Post by **wolf** » 07 Dec 2006, 22:46

this is the grease stuff right?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Dec 2006, 22:48

I think that would be fine

wolf · Post by **wolf** » 08 Dec 2006, 21:56

that is the stuff that they are selling on fcpgroto, and do i put grease between the pad-shim, and shim-caliper?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Dec 2006, 23:00

Both (everywhere except for between the pad and rotor). Even put some on the guide pins after you clean them off and make sure they move well.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Dec 2006, 18:30

OK So I've searched the "Stickys" and can't find a thread on the subject. There are a bunch of inexpensive drilled or drilled/slotted rotors on eBay, mainly from a Canadian source. The price, when compared to the Brembo and Zimmerman brands is about half. Has anyone here tried them? Are they any good or do they warp?

My stock fronts have warped to the point where I need to deal with them.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 10 Dec 2006, 21:14

I have some of those...got the ones that are slotted and drilled...diamond cut...oooweee! I really don't notice any stopping power difference. I think where they will come in handy though is on lots of mountain driving with hard braking...so that the rotors don't over heat. What I do notice is that they are noisey...especially when accelerating hard. If I had it to do over I would have just saved myself some $$ (although not much) and bought the OEM (non-drilled/slotted) from some place like fcpgroton.com Really, I feel no difference in stopping power and I do get more dust, not to mention the "air blowing" like noise when I accelerate. Unless you're into some fast and furious driving and hitting the brakes enough to over heat them, stay with the regular rotors...and always use OEM pads to keep from having squeeks and other issues.

Oh, and no warpping as of yet...had them on about 3 months now...but then again, the OEM's don't usually warp unless they get thin.

Tsquared · Post by **Tsquared** » 11 Dec 2006, 16:59

MadeInJapan,

When it is time for you to change pads let us know the milage you got with them, the type material, and manufacturer. I have drilled slots on my 944 and I get about 20K with ceramic Porsche or Ceramic Napa premium - this car sees only heavy performance driving (usually on a track).

For the rest of our vehicles we run OEM or direct replacement rotors. I did upgrade to ceramic on the Volvo and my Ford truck (both had semi-metalic from the factory). The danger of warping a rotor with ceramic pads can be reduced if you break in the new rotor with 10 to 15 heat cycles through normal braking without extreme (high speed stops) cycles. The rotor will cure evenly and have a better chance of not warping if it is cured propperly. Another trick is when you are in heavy traffic and come to a stop leave yourself some room so that you can creep forward to help distribute the heat around the disk. This will help prevent hot spots that can warp a rotor. And of course torqing the wheel bolts correctly.

T