DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)

[xHeart]

...

To keep the oil from leaking once a line is disconnected, prepare something like a small piece of eraser and insert it to stop the leaking. I much prefer this instead a clamping a rubber hose.

...

...like corking-a-bottle approach?

[cn90]

Brake hoses were replaced 12 months ago.

[cn90]

...To keep the oil from leaking once a line is disconnected, prepare something like a small piece of eraser and insert it to stop the leaking. I much prefer this instead a clamping a rubber hose...

1- If the hose is disconnected, I use a ziploc bag and rubber band to seal it, preventing fluid loss.
Don't cork it or use eraser b/c you don't want any trace of debris inside the hydraulic system.

2- In my case, the hose is brand new, a few months old. And since I didn't want to disconnect the hose (from the caliper):
- I pinched the hose with pliers (card board as cushion). I have used this technique (pinching hoses) for 25 years, no issues at all.
- Then I used the bleed port to introduce air (from the foot pump) to expel the piston. This technique (using foot pump) works great for those without an air compressor.

[xHeart]

My holiday challenge.
Is this caliper repairable, piston looks rusted? Would you recommend replacing with a reman?

caliper piston boot coming off

MVS_0995.jpg (1.05 MiB) Viewed 1860 times

[cn90]

See my photo above, exact same issue as yours, xHeart.
Get a reman from NAPA for $45.

[xHeart]

See my photo above, exact same issue as yours, xHeart.
Get a reman from NAPA for $45.

Happy Holidays cn90.
NAPA is not in this area.
Online search shows O'rielly have A1Cardon reman in-stock. The store 5 miles away.
Would it be safe to drive with this problem, pick up calipers when the store opens Thu 26th, I have no other means to get there.

[cn90]

Yes, safe to drive with that caliper (which shows rusted piston but no leak).
Check the reman caliper, very often it says "Volvo, ATE" b/c it came from another car that they re-mfg.

[xHeart]

Yes, safe to drive with that caliper (which shows rusted piston but no leak).
Check the reman caliper, very often it says "Volvo, ATE" b/c it came from another car that they re-mfg.

Would the brake fluid pour out or drip once the line is unscrewed at the caliper, an Oz or cup?
$40 each at O'Rielly.

Volvo ATE - Reman

MVS_0996.jpg (1.06 MiB) Viewed 1859 times

Piston, seal, and hardware

MVS_0997.jpg (1.04 MiB) Viewed 1859 times

[cn90]

xHeart,

1. First clamp the brake hose using a vise-grip and a piece of cardboard or old hose as a cushion.
Just a gentle clamp to prevent fluid loss.

2. Undo the connection at caliper, don't twist the hose, simply undo a bit to break the bond.

3. Remove caliper from bracket: 2 bolts. Rest it on top of a bucket (inverted bucket).

4. Now twist the caliper (not the hose) to remove the caliper. New caliper goes in by twisting new caliper.

5. Once the new caliper is mounted back in the car:
- Use a pair of channel-lock pliers and squeeze the piston all the way back in (open the bleed valve first).
- Tighten the connection at hose-caliper area using "Flared Wrench", just a firm tightening is all you need.

6. Install the brake pads.
Remove vise-grips on hose clamp.

7. Bleed the brake either with air compressor or 2-person method.

Once done, make sure you gently depress the brake pedal a few times to seat the pads.
Go for test drive.

PS: Before you return the caliper as core, keep the bleed valves, odds and ends (rubber caps etc.)...as spare.

[xHeart]

xHeart,

1. First clamp the brake hose using a vise-grip and a piece of cardboard or old hose as a cushion.
Just a gentle clamp to prevent fluid loss.

2. Undo the connection at caliper, don't twist the hose, simply undo a bit to break the bond.

3. Remove caliper from bracket: 2 bolts. Rest it on top of a bucket (inverted bucket).

4. Now twist the caliper (not the hose) to remove the caliper. New caliper goes in by twisting new caliper.

5. Once the new caliper is mounted back in the car:
- Use a pair of channel-lock pliers and squeeze the piston all the way back in (open the bleed valve first).
- Tighten the connection at hose-caliper area using "Flared Wrench", just a firm tightening is all you need.

6. Install the brake pads.
Remove vise-grips on hose clamp.

7. Bleed the brake either with air compressor or 2-person method.

Once done, make sure you gently depress the brake pedal a few times to seat the pads.
Go for test drive.

PS: Before you return the caliper as core, keep the bleed valves, odds and ends (rubber caps etc.)...as spare.

Coming along...perhaps missed a step or two.
- took the wise grip off after the step 4. now it is back on after re-reading above instruction.

going into step 5 -
- open the bleeder value: unscrew it OR just take off the round rubber cap?