2006 xc 90 V8 New alternator new tensoiner belt slipping

[VFLXC90]

ANDREW PENG » XC90 V8 Alternator Replacement

The above site got me started with the idea I could change the Alternator on my V8.
I printed the directions and referenced them several times.
Here are some pointers that were helpful.
Page #2 of 12. I purchased my alternator from FCP Euro. www.fcpeuro.com. They sell a factory Bosch reman. They did an outstanding job helping with my issues. They were very fair with returns and replacements. I will definitely use them for any future parts purchases and tec. Advise.
Page #3 Axle nut and nuts for sway bar, tie rod etc. Straight forward.
Page #4 Andrew didn’t separate the lower control arm from the ball joint. I decided to use a ball joint splitter rather than wrestle the axle removal from the hub. I used a ball joint splitter and separated the lower control arm from the strut. This made it very easy to pull the axle. I used my floor jack and jacked on the brake rotor center area were the lug nut holes are. This jacking area will be beneficial when it comes time for reassembly. With some pressure from the jack, ball joint nut removed and the splitter, the ball joint separated from the lower control arm with some help of a pry bar on the lower control arm. I then used a socket and placed in the area were the axle end is in the hub. Using a socket as a point to tap on, it will eliminate the potential issues of damaging the treads on the axle were the axle bolt is. Tapping on the socket and pulling on the brake rotor allows the axle to separate from the hub. I moved the strut assembly forward so the axle was now in full view.
Page#5 Axle bearing cradle: Note the top of the small cradle cap that comes out 1st. I put a zip tie in the bolt hole that represented the top. Tap the axle were it sits in the cradle reward. It will pull away from the cradle. Grab the axle on the outer end and give it a hard pull. It will come out. I removed the other part of the bearing cradle that is attached to the engine. By doing so, it allows room in this tight area to remove/install the alternator. Note the top of the cradle since the cradle will need to go back in place the way it came out. Removing the wiring harness: I spent a lot of time removing the harness large wire with an eye lit and a 12mm nut and the clip that has the small wire in it. The 12 mm nut had a cap on it. I pried the cap off from the top side with a long screwdriver. I was able to put a ¼ inch socket on the nut from under the XC. I went to the top side and put the ratchet in the socket. The A/C lines are in the way. So I used a screwdriver to separate what I could of the lines (the screwdriver was wedged in place. I used a second screwdriver to push the racket into the socket. My had my right hand holding the ratchet, left hand on the screwdriver. Once the nut was loose, I pulled the racket off and used the socket to UN screw the nut. This was done under the XC. I was limited on tools so this procedure might be possible from the bottom side. I used a small mirror to locate the small wire and clip. Good luck on this one. I was able to separate it he 1st time. The second time I changes the Alternator I broke the clip. I cut the wire and spliced it back with a butt connector and heat shrink. I was able to use zip ties to fasten the connector to the alternator in reassembly.
the connector to the alternator in reassembly.
P#6 Accessory belt removal: I used an accessory belt tool and a 19mm 12 point socket. Use a 12 point if you have one. Belt tensioner, I broke mine. I applied too much pressure? My second time around I put as much pressure as holding a gallon of milk using the gallon as a curl. This allowed me to get a feel for the tension. After 50 or so seconds I gradually pulled a little harder until it gradually released the tension on the belt. I pulled the belt off of the small smooth pulley to release the belt. When it is time to re assemble use this procedure in reverse order. When removing the three bolts that hold the Alt. Loosen the two on the bottom. The top bolt was difficult. I used a 10 mm wrench that had a flex end. Sears sells it for $17.00. Since I was limited on tools this was the tool that worked for me. I coated the bolts with anti-seize and screwed the bolts in place without the alternator. I did this 2 times in order to coat the threads. I was able to screw the bolts in by hand. This might help eliminate cross treading when holding the 20 pound Alternator and screwing in the bolts.
The transmission lines must be moved away from the Alternator. The Trans line is fastened in 2 locations held in place with a nut and a bolt. Follow the line up to the rear value cover and pull the line away from the fastener on the value cover. With the lines loose, it will help with wiggling the alternator out. When it’s time to align the strut with the lower control arm. I used the floor jack and jacked In the same location when I separated the ball joint. I attached a come along at the front of the jack. I slipped a strap through the driver side rim. I attached the come along to the strap. I jacked the strut up and pulled the jack/strut in place with the control arm with the come along. I was able to release the jack and work the come along to align up the ball joint to the lower control arm.
I was concerned the electrical system was affected after all of this. Mason at XeMODeX Technology helped with my concerns . I will use them in the future if I have any Ecm issues or any control modules issues.
It was a lot easier the 2nd time. I will likely tackle this again when we purchase a 2nd XC.
I had several hurdles to overcome. With the help from jimmy, Matthews, FCP and XeMODex I was successful in my pursuit of DIY.
XFL