2006 XC90 2.5t Seafoam

[Jabber5]

Has anyone used Seafoam in their 2.5t? If so, can you explain or post pics on where I should pour the seafoam into the intake?

Thanks!

[kcodyjr]

2.4T in my 97 850, but it's the same engine.

You don't pour it in anywhere. You'll use a piece of vacuum hose to suck it in. 1/3 of the can. Connect the hose anywhere on the intake manifold. The vacuum tree will do just fine.

[MoVolvos]

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Has anyone used Seafoam in their 2.5t? If so, can you explain or post pics on where I should pour the seafoam into the intake?

Thanks!

What is purpose for its use? Heard the good, bad and ugly on that stuff (check Youtube and Forums). Have used both the following in my 98 S70 T5 without issues.

Used this forever it seems - Costco has sales about twice a year and comes to around $3.00 a bottle @6 per case.
http://www.techron.com/techron-concentr ... fault.aspx

Used this for over a dozen years. This is a staple of Ferrai Clubbers. Well as far as the Clubber in the Club that I knew out this way. Never owned one but did drive one once.


Blessings,

BKM

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[kcodyjr]

The purpose is a more intensive cleaning than Techron, or any tank additive, can accomplish.

By sucking it in, you fill up the cylinders just short of a hydrostatic lockup, and let it sit there. The undiluted seafoam sits on and eats at the deposits on the piston, walls, and top of the rings.It also does a better job cleaning the valves on its way through than diluted in-tank solvent, and can in some cases restore weak compression.

Generally, you do the 1st 3rd of the can this way, let it sit 15-20, start it up and watch it smoke like hell, let it burn clear, then split the rest of the can between the tank and oil sump. Take it for a longish but medium-gentle ride, then change the oil.

Think of it as an enema for an engine.

[MoVolvos]

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Never given any thoughts to using SeaFoam and always thought of it as snake oil and now that you described how it is advertised to work... Contrary to what is advertised it just does not work that way. 1/3 of a can will not get close to a Hydro-lock in the cylinders. If you want the stuff to sit in the cylinders pores it in from the Spark Plug hole. The short time it takes to introduce 1/3 of a can and distribute into the cylinders much of it is combusted along with the gasoline. The pollution from the pipe is from a Wet CAT and also from blowby as you washed the lubricant from the cylinder walls.

Look for a YouTube and see how much coolant a cylinder can take on and still not lock the motor. Look at any Head Gasket job and see how much work in chemicals, time and muscles it takes to remove the buildup over time. Now I know for sure SeaFoam is a Snake Oil.

I've own 3 VW Diesels, 1 Rabbit and 2 Trucks. Oil Vapor from the Crankcase goes back into the Intake Manifold after the air filter and with time and age the oil puddles up and all do sudden becomes fuel and the motor would rev to max rpm. It is like a bad PCV on steroids and you can't stop it even with the key off and out till all the puddle is consumed. This is similar to the show SeaFoam performs. Very bad as the lubrication has been washed away by the residual. Lookup Youtube of ruined motors by Zealous engine revers on a motor lacking lubrication after soaking in SeaFoam.

Blessing,

BKM

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[kcodyjr]

Revving after using seafoam, or starting ether for that matter, is stupid independent of the merits, or lack thereof, of using such a product. Sticking one's foot through a rotten floorboard to stop the car like Fred Flintstone would also be stupid, yet does not reflect poorly on Adidas and Nike.

It's my interpretation that it was stopping just short of lockup, not theirs, mainly because it scares me that it could happen. Their metric is to suck it in until it stalls. Maybe I'll be less paranoid about that now, but maybe not: the swept displacement is 2.5L, at approx 10:1, giving 0.25L of cylinder capacity. I think I should still be afraid of too much getting into one particular cylinder. I don't see any reason it couldn't be done by pulling the plugs, but that does seem like a bit of a pain in the ass, but less prone to that particular error.

The engine invariably stalls at the end of sucking the stuff in. If it was being combusted anywhere near as quickly as you're suggesting, even within an order of magnitude, that wouldn't happen. As further consequence, there couldn't be any liquid building up in the catalytic converter either.

I don't see anything at all similar between run-on and upper cylinder treatments. I can stop the smoke show at any time by twisting the key. Since the engine is indeed running, any bare metal cylinder walls will remain such for not more than the next upward stroke; as you're well aware, the oil is splashing about all over the place inside that crankcase. These are also not diesels; it's normal for gasoline to skin the cylinder walls alive on every cycle, before combustion.

The product doesn't have to get things as whistle-clean as a head job. It need only improve matters noticeably without causing damage, and I've never heard of anyone damaging their engine this way. I've done it to three 850's, and in every case, it got measurably better mileage (1-2mpg) and very noticeably improved response to the pedal. More total power, and more responsive delivery.

Sorry, BKM. The only point you've made that I haven't successfully shot down is that I'm at less risk of a hydrolock than I thought. The stuff obviously helps a gasoline engine that's actually dirty. I'll close with one last point: you were convinced it was snake oil before you ever read about it. Look up the term "confirmation bias."

[MoVolvos]

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In my day Junior High had a full Wood Shop (skate boards), Metal Shop (ya skate boards) while high school had auto-shop and electronics. Not that it's relevant but guys who took an Art class had to Macrame (spell check doesn't even know its meaning) and Crochet also . The foregoing provided enough knowledge for the average guy to play with their cars and rebuild a motor and change a clutch. Mixed with a course in Chemistry, Physics and interest and observation in automotive you can potentially get a few books to study and take the ASE test and obtain a few certifications.

Like I said the stuff just produces a lot more "smoke" than good like the VW Diesels and bad PCV. The real old timers use to pore water profusely down the Carburetor while revving the motor to clean the Combustion Chambers specifically the Valves of Carbon. Wouldn't recommend that today (spoke too soon see video below).

The SeaFoam like Diesel does not burn clean unlike gasoline. When the motor cuts out it merely snuffed out the Spark Plugs and left everything damp in it's wake. They you have to blow it all out and the smoke show makes many a believers while other who are unfortunate are left with a permanent memory of the fireworks. To check my theory I went and looked to see if anyone shared the same conclusions:

Doe SeaFoam really clean?


SeaFoam will snuff the plugs but the real cleaners will not


A new timer using water to create smoke rather than SeaFoam


Clogged the CAT - Asked any reputable muffler shop about gas soaking the CAT to kill it or perhaps SeaFoam



Well, at least Techron or any other mystery oil will not damage the car but SeaFoam... and as for "intensive" cleaning I think the first video link says it all?

Blessings,

BKM

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[kcodyjr]

Explain the MPG improving. If the Seafoam didn't clean something, what did it do?

While you're at it, explain the improved butt-dyno readings, with full acknowledgment that butt-dyno is basically a useless tool of measure. That could well also be confirmation bias on my part, but the MPG improvement is an objective measurement.

[MoVolvos]

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Explain the MPG improving. If the Seafoam didn't clean something, what did it do?

While you're at it, explain the improved butt-dyno readings, with full acknowledgment that butt-dyno is basically a useless tool of measure. That could well also be confirmation bias on my part, but the MPG improvement is an objective measurement.

But in all seriousness the butt-dyno, as you've also indicated, should butt out as it would be the butt of the joke to include it in the discussion no if and or butts. Besides don't listen to or speak to that Butty as what it has to offer usually stinks.

For the gain in MPG it is obvious that the hose/water to the intake in the video link above showed it performed the same function as the SeaFoam, mainly introducing liquid for cleaning which has been effective since the days of Flintstones in removing Carbon.

Lost a few MPG also going to the store to buy a product that didn't remove deposits after 3 days in a jar (again video link previous post). The cost for SeaFoam surely would have added additionally quite a few more MPG in fuel rather than just the few oz. that only put forth a smoke show that no neighbor appreciates but I digress.

Again, poring or injecting liquid/water/carb type cleaners while racing the motor will promote cleaning as it did in the case of the SeaFoam but unfortunately the Foam leaves a lot of residue, which when you research Youtube you’ll find remains in the CAT for a bit as the smoke is definitely not from the Combustion Camber.

I'll take the water steam cleaning over Foam any day as it does not have the potential to damage the motor (EDIT: If you know what you're doing) nor clog the CAT you Sea. (EDIT: I Suggest using the Berryman technique in the Video link above).

Blessings,

BKM

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[kcodyjr]

Haha. C'mon, I wanna Seymour Butts.

Seriously, though, useless as a formal tool of measure, but sometimes we're not imagining it when there seems to be more of a kick in the seat. You're suggesting a plain water upper cylinder cleaning would have a similar effect?