DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!

[cartagena]

Great Photo of the PTC. I still had smoke coming out of the dipstick after doing a PCV job. However one of the boys on MVS told me to check the PTC. Voila that was the culprit. It was caked full of **** after cleaning it with brake cleaner and scraping it clean. My V70 could once again breathe again. Cheers.

[xHeart]

Among the best threads!
What is OIL VAPOR - colored blue, where does it show up?

[xHeart]

Are these banjo bolts and washers reusable?

[cn90]

Yes,

I re-use banjo bolt and washers all the time.

[Baptiste1106]

Used the 5/8 hose swap and still have smoking dipstick. Cleaned ptc again, checked ports, etc. compression holds @ 150-151 on all 5 cylinders. I haven't driven the car far to test new flow rate. Am i missing anything?

[erikv11]

Some possibilities:

- Did you also replace the little vacuum line to the intake manifold, and is it hooked up?
- the 5/8 hose could be kinked under the manifold
- was the drain port wide open back into the oil sump

[Baptiste1106]

@ erikv11

My intake has a factory blocked port. My vacuum line goes to either the metal snaked tube on top of my valve cover to the vacuum tree or direct from the ptc to the vacuum tree. What do you mean by wide open drain port back into the oil sump ?

[erikv11]

Ah yes, I am not familiar with all parts of the 94 PCV.

The "port back into the sump" is the passage behind the bottom pipe on the oil trap. Check out cn90's very first image on page one of this thread. There must be other comments about it in this thread somewhere, but that channel can get clogged, sometimes completely blocked off. It needs to be reamed out real well until it is wide open.

[OldSkoolMadSkilz]

This job is long overdue in my car. Drove it 1600 miles from Maryland to Texas and lost 10 quarts on the way. Entire left side of the engine is wet, which I'm assuming means that I blew one or both of the cam seals. Just hope the main seal is ok. I'm surprised that Volvo uses seals that are only 7mm deep. VW standard is 10. That extra 3mm makes them a b*** to remove, but it's worth it.

So here are my questions.

What are the 976584 clamps for? They are on the parts list for the DIY and also in FCPs kit. As far as I can figure, the four Oetiker 25.6mm clamps are used on the hoses from the top of the trap and the two 33.1mm are used for the side hose. The other two are screw clamps and I can't figure out what they'd be used for.

The Volvo diagram shows clamps on the bottom "hose", but I thought this is just an adapter that gets wedged between the trap and block. Is it just a mistake on the diagram?

Are the 25.6mm Oetiker clamps a good fit on the 5/8 hose? I do have some 24.1mm clamps.

I've seen DIYs where the fuel rail is disconnected but left on the manifold and others where it's not disconnected, but pulled off the manifold. Which is easier and has less of a chance of breaking an expensive part (which I'm quite good at!).

And the last question- For hoses- URO=bad, but for the trap, URO=OK, correct? Or should I go all OEM? For the cam seals I'm going AMA and using and Elring replacement. It's the good one with a red ID and gray OD. I've used them on VW and they have a nice tight garter.

[cn90]

- Oil Trap, clean it with solvent and re-use it.
- CAM Seals: search for SKF seals (I wrote it up in the Rear Cam seals DIY), about $8/each:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=50752