HELP !!! 2000 S40 Rear Piston Compression Woes

Post by **uhlan** » 16 Dec 2006, 11:16

Trying to replace the rear brakes on my S40. Can't seem to compress the rear pistons . I tried a c-clamp just a little (like on all my other cars) and it didn't budge. I read the Haynes manual and it claims you have to screw the piston in Clock wise. Tried that but it doesn't seem to budge back in at all no matter how much I turn it. (I do have the brake reservior open to relieve pressure)

On the forum someone replied that they used a c-clamp, but I'd prefer not to do that since the manual does say to use a C-Clamp on the front brakes but turn them in the back.

Has anyone else used the c-Calmp method successfully?

Any thoughts that anyone has would be usefull would be very appreciated.
Need to get my car of the Jack stands.

Thanks

[email protected]

Post by **billofdurham** » 16 Dec 2006, 11:41

This is the Vadis answer. It seems that the special tool is exerting pressure against the piston, whilst turning it, and against the calliper itself.

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/1749 ... keswi7.jpg

Bill.

Post by **uhlan** » 16 Dec 2006, 13:48

well that's just Ducky, since I don't have the "special tool". Thanks (truly) for the Reply & this dose of reality.

Has anyone every done this without the tool?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 16 Dec 2006, 14:34

uhlan wrote:well that's just Ducky, since I don't have the "special tool". Thanks (truly) for the Reply & this dose of reality.

Has anyone every done this without the tool?

Why are you upset when someone went to the trouble to try to help you?

We here at Matthews are innovators...when we can't get something to work, we use our imagination and come up with something that does works. If you look at the tool, all it is is a modified C-clamp. I'm thinking you can use 2 C-clamps, one smaller than the other, applying pressure on both (turning both) to compress the brake cliper while keeping pressure on the outside of the brake itself at the same time. Use your bean and give it a go, then don't forget to post back and tell us how you were successful.

Post by **uhlan** » 17 Dec 2006, 09:25

Sorry it was interpreted that I was upset. I actually was just lamenting out loud to myself, perhaps just too loud.

The reply was of course truly helpful & very appreciated.

This forum is great. In the future I hope to not only take but to give.

My S40 has ~110K miles on it and I'm bound and determined to economically get it to >300K.

Someone in another forum stated that he just used a pair of long long pliers, but that doesn't seem to work for me.

I have an idea that I can turn a garbage dispsal tool into just what I need here. I will try later today and let you all know what happened.

If it works is there anyway that I can post an image of it so other forum members can view it?

Thanks to all!!!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Dec 2006, 09:32

Yes, you can post pictures! By all means! ....Use the Image Shack window just below this posting window. After you highlight and select "copy" for the last link on the Image Shack page, come back here and use the Img tab on the top of this posting window before and after the link when "pasting" the link into this window. Then it will magically appear in your post.

If you have success, I'll add this thread to the S40 Repair Database so others will have easy access to your repair.

Good luck!

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Dec 2006, 11:24

I hope you do get it fixed as I think the main problem doing it without the special tool is lack of pressure on the piston as you turn it.

I have seen one of these tools since my last post and it is designed to turn and press at the same time - something that a C clamp can't do. The owner of the tool, a Volvo tech, has done the job previously by using a long metal strip which fits into the slots in the piston and has a T piece at the top on which he and a workmate applied pressure. Much easier with the right gear.

Bill.

Post by **uhlan** » 17 Dec 2006, 22:20

Well the combination garbage disposal tool & mending hinge (kind of like a door hinge) gizmo worked like a charm. I took pictures and will post tomorrow as it too late tonight to mess with it.

BTW - the wear indicator clips only went on ~50% of the way on the new pads. The pad itself is slightly larger on the plate then the originals. Less of a padless edge on these new ones. Concerned these clips may fall off at some time. Will this be a major problem?

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Dec 2006, 12:59

Necessity is the mother of invention. Glad it worked.

If the wear indicator clips have an insulated covering they should be all right if they come off. You just won't get a warning when your pads are down, but heck, I drove cars for 30 years before I had one with such modern gadgets and I never had a problem.

Bill.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Dec 2006, 14:03

I don't like the indicator gadets...they usually dig grooves into the rotors by the time you hear them. If they would come off I'd take them off (just how I feel). Best advise is to check the pads for wear ever oil change.