DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)

[JimBee]

On page 2 of this thread cn90 posts a picture of a specialized vice grip.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004 ... svolvo3-20
I posted about it here after finding it on Amazon after looking for a better gripping tool for difficult brake line fittings. I'd often thought about what such a tool would like and that somebody must have invented something to improve on the standard vice grip. There it was. I bought the set.

So how did it work for me? On three of the four fittings (steel lines to rubber hoses in front and steel to calipers at back) it provided a definite advantage. All the fittings were tight and with zero slippage I was able to crack both fronts and drivers side rear.

Passenger's side rear wouldn't crack and I could see that one pad was worn quite a bit more than the other, indicating one piston is probably frozen. I couldn't get the pistons out and couldn't change out the caliper, so I just switched the pads and let it go for the time being, which wasn't a satisfactory solution but I was out of time and didn't want to get in a shop situation where they end up replacing the lines back to who knows how far?

Why didn't I use heat? Honestly, I chickened out. I would've on any other wheel, but with the gas tank filler pipe right there, I couldn't do it. Not that I smelled fumes, I didn't. It all seems tight. Comments on that? I'd be interested in what others think. That might be the only way that fitting is going to come loose.

BTW: I had treated all the fittings with PB Blaster the day before and again before working. I think that does help. Before spraying them (or any bolt) I always wire brush around where the "bolt" threads enter the "nut" part, which might give the solvent a little better penetration into the threads.

[cn90]

JimBee,

That Vise-Grip is worth every $10 I paid for LOL!

On the issue of REAR caliper seizing to the metal line. I heated it but could not get the nut off.
So I rebuilt the caliper using new seal and boot "in situ". See Step #14 on the very first page of this thread.
The Trick:
1. Place the Rear Caliper on an inverted bucket for support.
2. Clamp the Driver side REAR hose (use rubber cushion and go easy with the clamp). Clamp gently, only enough to stop the flow.
3. Open the bleed port and feed some compressed air (foot pump is fine) to expel the pistons.
Grab the piston with channel-lock pliers. Don't damage the shiny surface (where it meets the rubber seal).

[JimBee]

cn90: I'm glad i bought that tool. I'm guessing it increases grip by about 30%, which on some of those fittings is just what, or maybe even more than, you need.
I didn't try to heat it, as I said. Following your suggestion I did unbolt it try to work on it in situ, but couldn't budge the piston that seemed rusted in. I don't remember what I did with the other side that seemed freely working, but when the weather warms up I'll do something with it. For now, it works okay. Locking the wheels on packed snow (at a slow speed : ) ) I slide pretty straight so there's no panic about it.

I have a theory about that right rear caliper. I ran into the exact same situation on my '96 855 and on a couple of junk yard Vovlo's. The other 3 loosen with some effort, but not that r.r. They just won't crack loose. I've just cut the line at the junk yard....

So my theory? The robot that tightens them at the factory is set to torque that one just a little tighter than the others. Not intentionally, of course...hmm I wonder how many brake line sales that's been responsible for.

I have an idea for a tool that would be quite easy to design that would loosen any fitting or break off the threaded part of the fitting if it just wouldn't let go. Anyone want to contribute an idea to such a tool? It goes beyond the custom vice grip!

Oh, and by the way: I also bought some rebuild seals for the fronts and tried in vain to get the boot seated in its groove and still be able to get the piston in. After two hours of cursing, gave up on that one and just headed on over to O'Reilly's. BTW O'Reilly's offers a lifetime warranty on their calipers.

Your tutorial was great up to that point, but required a little sleight of hand : ) where you "just" put the boot on and put the piston in. Another pic or two on that part would be very useful.

[cn90]

JimBee,

This is what I do for the boot:
- Place the boot on the piston, only 1/4 in the piston.
- Place the boot in the caliper groove.
- Use channel-lock pliers to press the piston in, once it the piston is fully seated, it will "pop" into the piston's groove part.

[xHeart]

cn90: I'm glad i bought that tool. I'm guessing it increases grip by about 30%, which on some of those fittings is just what, or maybe even more than, you need.
...

I say Vise-Grip 7LW takes over the gripping job 100%, fist is free. It is now the work of wrist and elbow to turn the mother...

I tried the two sizes 9mm and 14mm flare nut wrench at the connection after it was soaked with PB overnight. The metal/copper line started to flex close to an inch, postponed for a later date.

In a post where cn90 uses a 4-5 foot long pipe in combination with a breaker-bar to turn the axle nut gives us a clue. What-if the "grip function" is left to 9mm and 14mm flare nut wrench, but to ease-in the pressure that would turn the mother... uses extra long handle, 12 - 18 inch, i.e long handle flare nut wrench set from Craftsman.

... a sidebar ...
I now have a 7-piece stubby ratcheting wrench set. It is like playing piano-keys. Two examples are; 1) the use of two, 12mm and 13mm in one left-hand. Then using fingers to counter-hold and then turn the the u-joint nut at steering rack connection (best proportions); 2) using 14mm at the rear engine pad mount on the bolt hidden behind the impact shield.

[cn90]

Since I posted the DIY three (3) years ago, a few things have changed regarding the REAR rebuild kit...

The REAR rebuild kit Volvo PN 270902 is now about $30 for each caliper.

However, if you look at rockauto website (or local OReilly autoparts), you will see:
CARLSON Part # 15174 ---> $3.50 (rockauto pricing)
CENTRIC Part # 14339003 ---> $5.50 (rockauto pricing)

Then I did some more research, amazon shows photo of CENTRIC Part # 14339003 with the bag clearing saying "Made in USA".

Has anyone here used CARLSON or CENTRIC REAR rebuild kit?

Top of photo shows autohausaz pricing, bottom of photo showing amazon pricing:

rebuildkit.JPG (74.31 KiB) Viewed 1433 times

[joe_pinehill]

For calipers over 15 years old, especially those of us that live in the salt belt, is it worth rebuilding? When loaded calipers are around $75?

[JimBee]

I think I mentioned above that I changed out the drivers side rear caliper because the bleeder nipple was frozen and broke off (couldn't get the line off the passenger's side or would have changed that due to frozen piston).
That caliper was purchased at O'Reilly's several years ago and after some hemming and hawing about whether it was a failed caliper, they replaced it free of charge. They keep computerized customer records so I didn't need the receipt.
The one that broke was not an OE part, not was the replacement. The nipples on the OE's are thicker and I believe they're made of brass.
The after-market comes with a smaller nipple that is girdled in the middle and made of steel—almost guaranteed to break after a year or two. I'm guessing it was intended to be a premature failure part that wouldn't be warranteed if the internal parts were still in good repair. Anyway, as of last summer they do cover them.

[xHeart]

I think I mentioned above that I changed out the drivers side rear caliper because the bleeder nipple was frozen and broke off (couldn't get the line off the passenger's side or would have changed that due to frozen piston).
That caliper was purchased at O'Reilly's several years ago and after some hemming and hawing about whether it was a failed caliper, they replaced it free of charge. They keep computerized customer records so I didn't need the receipt.
The one that broke was not an OE part, not was the replacement. The nipples on the OE's are thicker and I believe they're made of brass.
The after-market comes with a smaller nipple that is girdled in the middle and made of steel—almost guaranteed to break after a year or two. I'm guessing it was intended to be a premature failure part that wouldn't be warranteed if the internal parts were still in good repair. Anyway, as of last summer they do cover them.

A helpful observation of reman caliper. I retained those copper valves before returning the core. Would you suggest I swap the steel with copper.?

[cn90]

I was at local OReilly auto parts store today and looked at CARLSON Part # 15174 rebuild kit.
Seems good quality, but the package says "made in China".

I wonder if anyone here has any experience with this particular rebuild kit made by CARLSON?

FYI, the ATE rebuild kit (made in Germany) is now > $30.