1997 Volvo 850/na - Fitment and make of exhaust muffler

Post by **xHeart** » 05 Jan 2014, 08:47

The two ends of exhaust muffler are deteriorating. The tail was repaired by inserting a foot long pipe and putting clamp to keep it in place.

Below is a photo of where muffler meets the CAT. There are two clamps over 3-4in adapter connecting the two. The adapter is visibly rusted and it has 1" of open hole, hence I ask:
1) Was the muffler short, so to make up the adapter help it reach the CAT?
2) Is the CAT short, trimmed off for...?
3) If replacing muffler what make and size would work best?
4) Step for undoing the two clamps and then removing the adapter?

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Jan 2014, 08:19

There are two sizes 88" and 90".
Aluminized steel - walker $200, replacement $130, bosal $190, starla $225, and volvo $300

Post by **xHeart** » 12 Jan 2014, 10:09

A little more homework...
The OD measurement of exhaust pipe is 2", and the rusted adapter clamped over the CAT measures 1 7/8" OD.

Since rusted, it needed aggressive brushing to find the head and tail which resulted in more noise generating exhaust. Nonetheless, it appears there is one adapter that goes over the CAT, and the other adapter goes inside the muffler. Not sure if it is just one adapter.

I may use cut-off rotary tool if clamps do not come off as nuts and threads are rusted. If I decide to use adapter and clamps for this repair, would it require using Permatex Exhaust and Tailpipe sealer, or likes, to prevent leaks at each joint?

joe_pinehill · Post by **joe_pinehill** » 12 Jan 2014, 10:16

Exhaust work in one thing I almost always take to a garage for now, I'm too old for it. Without a lift its PITA

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Jan 2014, 13:55

I replaced a Bosal on my son's car. The pipes were pristine but the muffler itself had rotted in half and the hanger arms rusted off of the body. The back pipe can be repaired with a chunk of tailpipe, a coupler, and a couple of clamps. eEuroparts has a tailpipe hanger that is real easy to install and it is cheap, around $8.00.

On my son's car I had to replace things in pieces. The Pick-n-Pull car that I bought the used parts from had the car about two feet off the ground but that wasn't enough clearance to get everything out without cutting off the tailpipe about 1/3 of the way back on the straight section.

The pipe diameters will vary depending on what kind of muffler you have now. I left the Bosal pipe from the joint between the catalytic converter to the muffler but it was a larger diameter than the stock pipe so I used an adapter coupler.

...Lee

Post by **xHeart** » 28 Jan 2014, 08:56

Thank you for the reply Lee.
Consensus are to DIY - repair and replace the portion connecting CAT and MUF, cost effective.
I would use two adapters and clamps, do I need joint sealer?
What would you change?

: repair kit...; MVS_1056.jpg (388.65 KiB) Viewed 5936 times

: joint sealer; MVS_1057.jpg (647.17 KiB) Viewed 5936 times

: direction for using joint sealer; MVS1058.jpg (203.97 KiB) Viewed 5936 times

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Jan 2014, 09:15

I've never used joint sealer when replacing stuff. I have tried to use the "muffler bandage" products to fix a big leak and they were a total waste of time and money. On the other hand, I can't see how the joint sealer stuff could hurt anything when used in conjunction with new couplers and clamps.

...Lee

Post by **xHeart** » 28 Jan 2014, 15:49

Ozark Lee wrote:I've never used joint sealer when replacing stuff. I have tried to use the "muffler bandage" products to fix a big leak and they were a total waste of time and money. On the other hand, I can't see how the joint sealer stuff could hurt anything when used in conjunction with new couplers and clamps.

...Lee

Thanks again Lee.
I will take up the task coming weekend.
Counting on my 3" rotary tool to cut away the old, with your often reminder of "safety first".
I will post the results.

Post by **j-dawg** » 28 Jan 2014, 16:36

if you're doing slip joints like that repair kit, i've always found sealer to be a good thing. give it the beans after installing - heat helps cure the goop.

if you have a welder, consider welding a nut onto one half of the joint and a little bolt flange onto the other. do this on each side of the pipe. then you can use the nut and a bolt to draw the two halves of the joint together. if they're tapered, this will get you a good seal. if not tapered, at least it will prevent the two halves from moving with respect to each other, so the sealer doesn't crack off.

Post by **xHeart** » 29 Jan 2014, 13:05

Thanks J -

Other than the two ends, the rest of the muffler would last longer than I think, hence the repair and NOT replace.

The MUF side coupler 1-3/4" ID would sleeve over the one on the CAT side 1-3/4" OD. It would give an overlap of close to 1-1/2". That is where I intend to use the sealing joint, no clamp here.

The 1-7/8" OD would slide inside the MUF. Now I am wondering if I use the sealing joint at this connection or just clamp it, OR do both - seal and clamp?

On the CAT side, the sensor is inches away from the end where the coupler goes over the CAT. I am thinking about just using clamp over the coupler for the CAT connection. What to watch for at this sensor location, and when I take off the bracket?

Any handling instruction at CAT and MUF, are the rubber hangers coming off the hooks/brackets?
I have a 2 months old exhaust manifold.