will i need any more part for suspension and timing belt kit Topic is solved

[erikv11]

xHeart is giving great advice IMHO. Here is how I would prioritize and group the work. To spend this kind of money on the car you have to be thinking you will keep it for a while. For a 1994 car with 140k, this is reasonable.

(1) Timing belt job (if this stuff craps out, the car is worthless): both rollers, timing belt, timing belt tensioner. See above for brands. Since it sounds like we need to consider total $ right now, let the water pump go but know that there is a chance it could start leaking. 140k is low miles though, for a factory pump. I would let it go and put it on the list for 210k. Don't wait for the 5k more miles and hitting exactly the 140k interval, just do this job and cross it off the list.

(2) Check the control arms. They usually go bad 100k - 120k so if they are 20 years old, you want to know if the ball joints are loose. This is job #2 because it is a safety concern (handling). If they are fine, push them to the bottom of the list but almost for sure you will be doing them by the time you are done with the suspension. Once everything else is tight, they will start to feel sloppy. This is a fairly easy job, no alignment needed. Use Meyle HD from FCP.

(3) Front struts. This job will give you the most satisfaction in ride improvement. Alignment has to be done with struts so this is a good time to do tie rod ends too. But see my comment #5 about tie rods below. Sachs or Bilstein TC brand struts, Volvo or IPD HD brand spring seats, strut bearings (strut mounts) you can try re-using or do some searching I am not sure what brand people are going with (but SachsBoge and Volvo are trusted), bump stops use whatever brand, do not bother replacing any of the hardware unless it is super rusty. The brand on the spring seats is critical - Volvo or IPD HD only. Tie rods don't buy the $14 ones they will be bad in 8 months, go with TRW or Volvo or search the forum.

(4) Sway bar end links get noisy when they are bad but otherwise have little effect on driving. Replace these whenever you have the time and money. Meyle HD and Volvo brands are good, as is IPD HD. You could even start with this just to get your feet wet on suspension jobs, it's your call. But not a priority.

(5) Inner tie rods are kinda a headache because you really only want to replace them if they are bad. But if you do this job, you have to get an alignment again. Personally I would gamble and leave all tie rods alone, although I would check to be CERTAIN there is no play in the tie rods right now. You can check that by getting the car up in the air and pulling on the wheels etc. TRW or Volvo or search the forum. Don't buy the cheap ones.

(6) Rear shocks can be done almost whenever, it is nice to do them with the front struts but it is up to time and $ concerns. I would put this off until you are done with enough of the front end that the rears are getting your attention. Get the same brand/model as the struts, get new shock mounts which can be aftermarket as they are easy to change, get bump stops (any brand) if the existing ones are bad. There is no need to replace any of the hardware unless it is rusted out.

[hanzbe420]

So i think i am gonna get this suspension kit? Is there any parts i should get replace for oem in this kit? http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-c ... 850kit10fr

And this is the timing belt kit.... http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... tbkit252wp


What you guy think?

[erikv11]

OK you asked ..

Suspension:
That kit is costing you more than if you just ordered the parts you actually need. However it is an OK kit if you
- Replace the strut mounts with OEM Sachs, do NOT get URO brand.
- Replace the sway bar links with Lemforder, FCP has them on closeout right now so shouldn't cost but a few bucks more
- Main thing is you could save yourself probably $60 by ordering the same parts one at a time from FCP and leaving out at least some of the hardware, for example in all my years of Volvo suspension work I have never ever had to replace Strut Mount Fitting=31262068, Strut Mount Cap=30647969 or Strut Mount Washer=31201386. And even if you want new nut and bolts (I did the first time I did suspension I get it), those copper top nuts there is NO need to replace.

Timing:
I wouldn't get that kit ($269) because of the GMB roller. Also, cam seals aren't a standard part of the timing belt job although you can do the front ones during timing belt if you want to (usually only if they are leaking). Plus the Elring cam seals aren't great, if you are going to replace them as preventive then buy the quality seals (SKF or Volvo). Rear cam seals no reason to change unless they are leaking. The oil pump seal (6842273) there is NO reason to touch unless you know it is leaking.
I'd save money on the seals and instead get
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... kit252-oem $236)
plus a serpentine accessory belt (Conti, $22)
plus a water pump (Hepu, $60)

[hanzbe420]

yea i think i will heed your advice. I would rather get all oem then take a chance. And i think like u said ill break the jobs down. just do the timing first, cause why buy the suspension if i mess up the timing or something lol. I think i will make a video with my car on jack stands with all wheels of and check all the components and post it back to see what you guys think is necessary. as for right now i no its struts and springs for sure, and the end links bushing are shot. everything else is ok i think but 20 yrs old. I Don't really wanna spend 600+ for the suspension kit, i just like how it has the whole kit and i wouldn't probably have to touch it again if not a long time. But yea i am hoping after the timing and a little suspension and tuneup work she will last well into the 200k mark if not i am in it for the long haul with this 1 lol. Thank you very much for the help Erik. So basically you think that timing belt kit will be all i need? Did you use that one? Ps, i no the other kit has the hepu pump and serp belt cant i just switch the bad parts out and drop the seals for a cheaper price or no?

[Oddbob]

The two pulleys must be Volvo branded which is made by INA.
The hydraulic tensioner must be Volvo branded which is made by Aisin.
The timing belt can be Volvo branded or Continental branded. Conti is going to be cheaper if you shop around.

If you want the ease of a kit and great customer service then go with this from FCP, it has both pulleys plus tensioner plus timing belt for $236
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... kit252-oem

But you can save a few bucks if you shop around, for Volvo-branded parts this site is great, you can get the parts in that FCP kit for only $188:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=216970
30758260 contains all Volvo branded belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley, $110
9146693 is Volvo-branded hydraulic tensioner, $78.

I am trying to budget myself so I can do the timing belt/pulleys/tensioner on my moms 1995 850 Turbo (2.3L yadda yadda yadda) because we don't know when it was last completed. I am curious if this kit would be the same for our car (It's the timing belt, so I definitely don't want to mess it up).

Also, according to their website, there's a tensioner and a dampener. You linked the dampener (for $78) but the tensioner (item 19) is a pulley. I'm so confused. On our previous non-turbo 850, I didn't replace what I thought was the tensioner (item 21) when I did the timing belt, don't ask why I left it there...

Thanks, I just want to be sure I get the right OEM parts.

[erikv11]

Hmm I just replied but my post is not here ???

At the Tasca site:
19 = tensioner pulley
20 = idler pulley
21 = tensioner (they call it a dampener)

Get 30758260 and 9146693, those are the right parts for a 95 850 turbo.

30758260 = 19+20+belt
9146693 = 21

[hanzbe420]

I ended up going with a gates water pump kit online. It came with all the parts the ipd came with except the water pump was a gates that was made in china, But looked really good quality. Been driving all winter with no problems so far. yea i no i should've just went with the ipd kit, but o well i bet this kit will do just as good, if not ill just have to replace the waterpump. And for the struts i'm going with the complete struts from gabriel on amazon. And the matching gabriel shocks. Basically there fully assembled and very cheap. So as far as i've heard there has been no problem with these but there still being tested. But yea i just need this car to last a little longer. Not trying to go all out and get the best oem stuff. Anyways will keep you updated on the longevity of the gates kit. And when i start the struts i will let you know the longevity of those. and both my axle boots are torn and have been torn over a year +, and now there clicking around turns lol. Those stock axles are very good. lemforder? And it sat all summer because i didn't have the money to get that gates kit. And when i first drove it again i had a lot of rust on the rotors, and all but the passenger tires cleared up almost immeadiatly but not the passenger it went on pulsing and making noise for a while! I almost got new rotors. Im so glad i did not!!! I took a 300 mile trip from CT TO MAINE and bye the time i got back to CT the rotors were all back to normal no pulsing no noise no nothing lol. And i never changed the breaks in all the 3 + years i had it. It has these aftermarket looking pads that are blue. Figure they must be good lol. Anyways sorry for going on, i just like to update all my post to let you guys know what's up with what i did and where i'm at. Sorry for any mispunctuation or misspelling.

[joe_pinehill]

did you check your tool box for all the tools you will need? I found a thin profile bent handle swivel head Offset 3/8 ratchet from Sears a big help in removing the bolts for the timing belt job. Also I did use a cam gear locking tool, many posters say you don't need it, but I'm glad I had one.

Hardest part is getting the new belt on correctly, I found ozarklee's instructions worked best for me. When you put the new belt on, if it doesn't look right, it probably isn't, take it off the gears and keep trying until its right.

[hanzbe420]

You must have read wrong joe. I already did my timing with a gates kit from amazon. Or maybe i wrote wrong either way, umm yea i bought the ipd locking tool but it wouldn't even work so i did it without it and no i didn't use a swivel head just standard toolset. I had to go to advanced auto to get some parts like 30mm axle nut socket,1/2 - 3/4 adaptor (for serpentine tensioner) and some grey silicone gasket maker (blue tube) and i also got a long extention to help with things but i cant remember if i got that for this job or not but i do have a thread its.... im trying to find it omg!