Hi all, I am looking to purchase a 1989 Volvo 244. I have driven one of these before and know they have sluggish acceleration. I have been doing a little research and have seen different things I can do. As I am a p-plater in NSW, Australia I am unable to install a turbo and therefore am thinking of using IPD's VX cam and either a 242's exhaust or IPD's exhaust. Can anyone tell me how much of a power gain I will get from these parts. I am not looking for a massive gain, just a little bit more. Also, it has an Auto (AW71) transmission. Thank you.
P.S. Is a Volvo 240 from this year OBD I or II?
1989 240 Adding power to a 240?
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Make sure all lubricants are new ( engine, pwr steer, rad,trans and rear end) and synthetic if possible. Then take a look at sensors . The oxygen sensor( lambda) is out of spec by 60K on these cars (if original) . Newer ones will last 100K miles.
Once your lubes are new and your sensors and spark plugs, cap wires are up to date you can upgrade your power.
The cam is the best Idea and really only adds top end power. 240's need a lot more than a cam to make real increase in power. The exhaust doesn't play as big a roll as you might think. You will see much more improvement from the cam then you will from the exhaust.
IPD should be able to quote specific increases for each product or products combined. Give them a call with questions like.
What total power increase will I see from just your cam?
What if I add an adjustable timing gear?
What if I add this exhaust or that one?
Sorry you can't have a turbo yet- I think everyone should own at least one in their life.
Have you considered a twin cam head w/o turbo?
Once your lubes are new and your sensors and spark plugs, cap wires are up to date you can upgrade your power.
The cam is the best Idea and really only adds top end power. 240's need a lot more than a cam to make real increase in power. The exhaust doesn't play as big a roll as you might think. You will see much more improvement from the cam then you will from the exhaust.
IPD should be able to quote specific increases for each product or products combined. Give them a call with questions like.
What total power increase will I see from just your cam?
What if I add an adjustable timing gear?
What if I add this exhaust or that one?
Sorry you can't have a turbo yet- I think everyone should own at least one in their life.
Have you considered a twin cam head w/o turbo?
Retired
Hi JDS60R, thank you for your reply. I will definitely call IPD and see what they have to say. Haha yeah gotta wait 2 more years after this year to be able to drive a turbo. How expensive would it be to get a twin cam head and how would i go about doing it? Thank you.
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Twin cam head is a bolt on and can accept a turbo later. Its routing the belts. mounting new pulleys , configring the timing belt setup that will take the time.
IPD has done this mod - call them and discuss the details. It will take a persistent mechanic to make it happen so I suggest a 93-95 Volvo 940 turbo motor or a volvo twin cam turbo motor if you can find one.
93-95 ( I think thats right) had oil squirters under the piston and are already built with a turbo.
You could get a wrecked 940 turbo engine and trans and then rebuild it over the next 2 years. When you are ready you can engineer the swap.
Unfortunately you will easily get more power out of a whiteblock 5 cylinder so the best route is to find an 850 turbo with a damaged motor and rebuild it over the next 2 years. FWD, ABS and 222hp waiting to be made into 300 awaits you in an 850.
IPD has done this mod - call them and discuss the details. It will take a persistent mechanic to make it happen so I suggest a 93-95 Volvo 940 turbo motor or a volvo twin cam turbo motor if you can find one.
93-95 ( I think thats right) had oil squirters under the piston and are already built with a turbo.
You could get a wrecked 940 turbo engine and trans and then rebuild it over the next 2 years. When you are ready you can engineer the swap.
Unfortunately you will easily get more power out of a whiteblock 5 cylinder so the best route is to find an 850 turbo with a damaged motor and rebuild it over the next 2 years. FWD, ABS and 222hp waiting to be made into 300 awaits you in an 850.
Retired
-
Richard-Bundy
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 2 February 2012
- Year and Model: 940 1992
- Location: Australia
hi,
sorry to butt in here, but it might be worth mentioning a few things.
The OP is from Australia, and the sort of cars that are being compared to generally are 6 cylinders in the region of 3.8 to 4 litres, as being ' acceptable' for a P plater to drive. So a 240 auto will feel sluggish. Keep In mind that costs and availability etc in Australia are different to other countries also.
putting a 16 valve head in a 240 with right hand drive, will not be a simple process. also, finding suitable 16 valve doners or turbo doners will also not be easy.
so, summing up, to buy a 240 for say $2000, spending $1000 or so to get it healthy, and then buying a $2000 doner car, and spending a further $1000 on doing the work, will give you a $6000 cost 240, that will still be slower than a $1000 ford or holden.
however, saying that, I would suggest that if you bought the 240, and got it running good, using parts from ipd, and keeping the 8 valve head you will enjoy the car. when running well it will not be sluggish, particularly if you shift the auto tranny manually. the trannys seem to have a disposition to shift up, well before the engine reaches its best power, if left in D.
remember there are standard things that go wrong with every car. the standard Volvo 240 problems probably existed in the sluggish car you tested. EVERY Volvo redblock I have bought, was forsale because it was slow and using too much fuel. but in EVERY case I fixed those problems quickly and cheaply.
In summary, get it running schmiko, fit a cam and headers/exhaust, and shift manually when you want fast, and you will have an inexpensive, far better car than the holden/ford yobs. best upgrade beyond that would be manual gearbox swap. Also get some moose stickers from Dave Barton, they will add a few kilowasps. ( I have several Volvos and fords valiants etc, so speaking from experience. and although I am a yobbo, Volvos are my favourite car ! ) also, if I can be so bold, don't get hung up on performance. enjoy the ride and smell the roses, rather than embrace the trees at 150kph.
sorry to butt in here, but it might be worth mentioning a few things.
The OP is from Australia, and the sort of cars that are being compared to generally are 6 cylinders in the region of 3.8 to 4 litres, as being ' acceptable' for a P plater to drive. So a 240 auto will feel sluggish. Keep In mind that costs and availability etc in Australia are different to other countries also.
putting a 16 valve head in a 240 with right hand drive, will not be a simple process. also, finding suitable 16 valve doners or turbo doners will also not be easy.
so, summing up, to buy a 240 for say $2000, spending $1000 or so to get it healthy, and then buying a $2000 doner car, and spending a further $1000 on doing the work, will give you a $6000 cost 240, that will still be slower than a $1000 ford or holden.
however, saying that, I would suggest that if you bought the 240, and got it running good, using parts from ipd, and keeping the 8 valve head you will enjoy the car. when running well it will not be sluggish, particularly if you shift the auto tranny manually. the trannys seem to have a disposition to shift up, well before the engine reaches its best power, if left in D.
remember there are standard things that go wrong with every car. the standard Volvo 240 problems probably existed in the sluggish car you tested. EVERY Volvo redblock I have bought, was forsale because it was slow and using too much fuel. but in EVERY case I fixed those problems quickly and cheaply.
In summary, get it running schmiko, fit a cam and headers/exhaust, and shift manually when you want fast, and you will have an inexpensive, far better car than the holden/ford yobs. best upgrade beyond that would be manual gearbox swap. Also get some moose stickers from Dave Barton, they will add a few kilowasps. ( I have several Volvos and fords valiants etc, so speaking from experience. and although I am a yobbo, Volvos are my favourite car ! ) also, if I can be so bold, don't get hung up on performance. enjoy the ride and smell the roses, rather than embrace the trees at 150kph.
Thank You both for your replies,I will have a look at all these options and see what is currently best budget and legislation wise. I will try to post pictures and maybe specs when I am finished with the car. Thanks again.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






