1980 245 engine fan removal advice needed

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 14:07

The timing belt on my 1980 245 broke. All guides advise removing the fan by
removing the four 10 mm bolts behind the fan. However, I have a large metal
fan that does not allow access to these bolts. I assume this is because it's
an earlier model. There's a large center bolt on the front of the fan. Does
this remove the fan, and how do I hold the shaft in place while loosening
the bolt?

Thanks,

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 15 Feb 2014, 15:22

Is there not a fan clutch between the fan and the water pump pulley? Should be 4 nuts holding the fan clutch to the water pump and pulley.

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 17:40

Lummert
Thanks for your reply. On my 1980, the fan is metal and held on with a large center bolt on the radiator side of the fan.
I was able to remove it by holding the fan clutch with a strap wrench while backing out the center nut.

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 Feb 2014, 17:45

Volvo used the integrated fan clutch for a few years on 4 cylinder and the V6. You can replace with the newer style as those may not be available any more and if they are they are damn expensive.
I had several of the hubs with the stepped and ribbed washer with the 17mm bolt in my junk drawer. I tired of stirring them around and finally put them on the metal scrap trailer.
They love to rattle when they wear. Then the next step is it locks up.

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 18:15

Jimmy,
I believe that's what I have.
I mistyped earlier. I put a strap ranch on the water pump belt pulley. That allowed me to hold the shaft in place as I removed the center bolt from the fan.

Here's my next issue. On a model of this year, how do I release the tension on the AC compressor belt?

My compressor looks different than any I'm seeing online.

Thanks,
Brooke

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 18:15

Strap Wrench that is.

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 Feb 2014, 18:56

The crank pulley is two piece. There are two 6 mm studs and 4 6mm bolts. 6mm shank, all have 10mm wrench hex.
The pulley halves have shim rings between them and some shim rings on the outside of the front half.

A new belt will usually have 4 between and two in front if the original 6 shims are there.

To loosen undo the 4 bolts and two nuts.

Tightening is different. fit the inner shims and then outer pulley. Then the outer shims. Install the nuts and then start the bolts. Run in the nuts/bolts at 2 to 5 o'clock, turn crankshaft 1/3 turn and then the next two in the 2 to 5 o'clock positions. Keep this up a few more 1/3 turns tightening until they are tight. Tight is 9-10 ft-lbs.

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 19:09

Jimmy,

Thanks. So, to remove the AC belt, I don't decrease the tension on the belt at the compressor as I did on the alternator?
I, instead, just remove the crank pulley and take the belt off without touching the compressor?

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 Feb 2014, 19:45

Yes. the compressor is rigidly mounted and the shims effectively change the daimeter of the oulley to tension the belt. Less shims between the two parts pushes belt further out and that makes belt tighter. It's strange. This system was used on original Beetle generator or alternator. I have seen it on farm equipment too.

brooketesta · Post by **brooketesta** » 15 Feb 2014, 23:34

Jimmy,

Thanks so much. I'd have never figured that one out.

Brooke