95' T5-R Manual Swap Questions

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 08 Mar 2014, 20:03

: m56_top_labelled.jpg (146.66 KiB) Viewed 3267 times

I accidentally pressed submit instead of preview so I apologize for the un-edited feel of this post.

Hey guys, I'm gearing up for a manual swap on my T5-R. Forum member jacobharding hooked me up w/ an M56 and just about everything else I need. I've done a fair share of reading on the swap and I have a reasonable understanding of the overall process but I still have some nagging questions.

My questions break down into 2 parts:

1. New vs used parts

2. What electrical work is necessary

The VS threads on the subject are pretty informative but a little scattered and leave some details out. dooby's thread over at volvoforums.uk is also extrememly helpful but again lacks a few of the details I'm looking for. [ http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/78 ... nual-swap/, http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/65 ... anual+swap, and http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=71697 ]

So for part 1:

My big issue is that VS claims you have to use new parts in certain places while it looks like dooby went ahead and used used parts. According to this thread on VS http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/65 ... anual+swap the
Release fork (9143486)
Slave cylinder (9181017)
Master cylinder (9163880)
Clutch hydraulic hose (9181437)
should all be new. But from dooby's write up (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=71697) it looks like he reused all of those parts. What's the reasoning for using new parts here vs reusing old ones?

Aside from that I'm also confused about the flywheel. First of all, I haven't seen anyone say it out right but I gather that the autotragic flywheel won't work with the manual transmission. Am I right in that assumption? Second if I have to source a flywheel what requirements does it have to meet? Someone on VS mentioned that depending on which flywheel you use ("newer" vs "older") you have to reverse the polarity on the crank sensor. Why does the age of the flywheel impact the crank sensor in the first place and what flywheels fall into the "newer" category vs the "older" one?

And the last parts question (for now) is really just a confirmation of what parts I have. In the picture below I have the flywheel (top left), pressure plate (top right), and the clutch (bottom middle). Is that correct?

: clutch_presure plate.JPG (125.51 KiB) Viewed 3268 times

Now for part 2.

I've heard people do two different things in regards to the auto TCU. Some people remove it completely, while others rewire it and leave it in. I'm assuming this has to do with how you wire up the PNP switch and the reverse lights. Am I on the right track with that logic and what are the pros and cons there? I'm leaning towards removing the TCU completely and juming the pins on the PNP; this seems to be the easiest route. Next, what's the actual procedure for the reverse lights? In this picture, the reverse light switch is off to the right. Is there a matching plug on my existing wiring harness that will plug into that? And what is the electrical connector on the left for?

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I'm sorry about the size of this post but any tiny bits of help are appreciated.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Mar 2014, 20:24

It sounds like you've studied a bit more than I have but, in general, the '95 is a great year to work with for the swap. From the looks of things you have an earlier model M56 as well since it has the VSS on the transaxle. In that regard things should be fairly happy in the speedometer department.

You do have the parts correctly identified. I would "bin" the clutch, the pressure plate, and the throwout bearing. Just buy the Sachs kit that has all three and be done with it. Get the flywheel surfaced before you put it back on and, while you are there, change the RMS. The other parts I would inspect for problems and if there isn't anything obvious just reuse them. The master and slave cylinders aren't a huge deal to change out even if they were to start leaking. I think I would be inclined to go ahead and replace the hose just because of age and it will try to crack if you move it around much.

I would talk to Lucky and see about getting a chip burned for a manual turbo. If you don't you will forever have a CEL since either the TCU isn't there or the TCU doesn't have a transmission to communicate with. Additionally, the throttle dampening characteristics changes between the manual and the automatic and having the manual firmware makes things more drivable.

The reverse lights are easy, I will take a peek at the schematics later and, if someone else hasn't already done it, I will tell you which wires to hook up to the reverse light switch.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 09 Mar 2014, 22:43

Thanks Lee, very helpful information there. So I'm guessing the electrical connector on the left side of that picture is the speed sensor on the transmission? Does the automatic use a similar switch on the transmission or am I going to have to do some wiring modifications for that as well? Also, any ideas about reversing the polarity on the crank sensor and which flywheels require that modification?

I'll go ahead and get a new clutch and throw out bearing; thank you for your help with that.

Looking forward to your response about the reverse lights.

Post by **jimmy57** » 09 Mar 2014, 23:36

You will have to use a wiring diagram to find the reverse light wires in the auto trans connector.
Unplug the connector on the VSS and leave VSS in the hole to plug it. Your 98 uses ABS as speedo driver signal source. 95 and older used that VSS on final drive on rear of trans.
I'm pretty sure you will be reversing RPM sensor wires. The flywheel sensing surface for the late style is a pressed on ring that looks like they cut the ring off an auto trans flywheel. Late style needs an open spot and early has a spot equal to two teeth filled in (not drilled). IT will run with them not reversed but the timing will be off about 3 degrees. TO be honest it has been so long since I had a manual and played with the wires. I don't know if you will be retarded or advanced if you don't swap the wires.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Mar 2014, 08:09

polskamafia mjl wrote:Thanks Lee, very helpful information there. So I'm guessing the electrical connector on the left side of that picture is the speed sensor on the transmission? Does the automatic use a similar switch on the transmission or am I going to have to do some wiring modifications for that as well? Also, any ideas about reversing the polarity on the crank sensor and which flywheels require that modification?

I'll go ahead and get a new clutch and throw out bearing; thank you for your help with that.

Looking forward to your response about the reverse lights.

The reverse light wires wires are the Blue wire (pin 5) and the Blue/Grey wire (pin 9) that are on the PNP switch. You will need to scare up an appropriate connector and then just splice the wires into your PNP wiring harness. Polarity doesn't matter since it is a dry contact switch. Your Volvo dealer can get the right connector for you and they are fairly cheap.

Yes, the connector on the bottom of the transmission is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 10 Mar 2014, 18:45

Thanks Lee. Much appreciated.

My flywheel and M56 came out of a 94 850. I'm guessing that would fall into the older category and therefore I won't have to mess with the RPM sensor, correct?

Is this FCP clutch kit the one for the 850R? http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-c ... -k70551-01 I understand the R clutch has a larger friction area than the regular clutch. I'm going to get a tuned ECU from ARD so I'd like to have a clutch that can handle the extra power.

Also, Lee, this is the hose you recommend replacing with new, right?

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Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Mar 2014, 20:10

As far as the RPM sensor goes, I'm not sure. '94 and '95 are compatible and the speedometer signal will be correct for sure. The '94 donor would have had a Jetronic LH 3.2 ECU setup and I don't know if things changed on the flywheel / flex plate setup between the LH 3.2 and the Motronic. I've had a transmission out of both varieties but never at the same time so I never have had an occasion to side by side compare the notches on the flywheel and the windows on the flex plate. From the sounds of things, it isn't difficult to overcome if they are different.

If you can source a R clutch, and the money isn't much more, I would be inclined to do so if the part number actually is different than the standard clutch kit. I noticed on my replacement Sachs kit that the surface area on the clutch was a good bit smaller than it was on the original clutch. It has worked just fine for a few years but it has a very tired 2.4 NA in front of it.

That looks like the hose. One other hose you will need is the hose from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch master cylinder. The clutch hydraulics run off of the brake fluid.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 12 Mar 2014, 23:05

I'll talk to FCP and verify whether there is a difference between the two clutches. I talked to Lucky and he recommends removing the TCU completely from the car. Not sure if that makes things more clear for me or not. lol More research is needed. I'll be back when I have specific questions. Thanks guys.

- Marcin

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 13 Mar 2014, 22:03

Just to clarify.

Here's the diagram for the PNP switch and transmission:

Item 3/71 is the PNP I believe.

So all I need to do for the reverse lights is run wires from the reverse light switch on the transmission to pins 5 and 9 on the PNP?

To take care of the Park/Neutral starting issue, would I be jumping pins 7 and 6? Those look to be the ones associated with those gears.

Post by **jimmy57** » 13 Mar 2014, 22:11

Yes, You got it right. 98's didn't have clutch pedal starter interrupt switch as that was new for 99 model year so no worry for that.