2003 xc90 battery keeps dying

snow6 · Post by **snow6** » 13 Mar 2014, 11:39

Hi,

My XC90 ( bi-turbo) battery keeps dying when running. We have the battery replaced , and also alternator was replaced twice. But still it is the same. ANy ideas what might be going on. Thanks in advance.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 22 Mar 2014, 21:14

We have a similar problem on our 08 V8 Sport.... Perhaps we can work together...

ISSUES - Sometimes its fine for a week with short jaunts (school pickup/dropoff, shopping, etc.), then dies on one trip to a local store. I even drove it to work (20mi), and then when returning home at end of day at about 15mis back, "power system failure" came on on highway. Dropped into neutral, revved engine until battery recharged and warning lights went away.
TROUBLESHOOTING - Swapped 630+CCA battery with a newer 730+CCA from our 02 V70XC, and the issue persists 630CCA has no issues in our V70XC). Battery and Alternator both tested fine at several auto zone, advanced auto, etc. using various testers. I ensured battery terminals are clean, and can't find any additional corrosion anywhere.
INVESTIGATION - I have always heard weird clicking noises (similar to relays, etc.) from time to time coming from back cargo area while vehicle is on. You?
Thanks so much for any info... glad to share/help.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 22 Mar 2014, 21:23

I also checked OBDII port with a half decent tester... no codes. Did you have your BATT/ALT work done at dealer? I have heard that there are different types of compatible alts that have varying Voltage Regulators on them that can cause issue... it can be checked by model number. Calling your local friendly Volvo Dealer Parts Guy should result in getting the proper part number to match your VIN (or at least the last six characters). A good place to start since you've already replaced your ALT.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 26 Mar 2014, 13:06

I will be testing out some relays and connections using this VERY helpful wiring diagram PDF with links (i.e. click on a component within the PDF and it will take you to a corresponding page with more info...)
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir ... 20Diagrams
There are several models years available for free using that link, including 2003. If all else fails I am scheduing an appt w/ Bobby Rahal Volvo to run a VADIS/CAN system scan. Hope this PDF reference helps. I'll let you know of any findings...

Post by **regent** » 26 Mar 2014, 16:22

Quick test: With a good battery and new alt., on a fast idling engine (about 1,500 - 1,800 rpm) with some load (headlights, rear window defroster) you should read above 14 volts at the alternator terminal, and at the same time the voltage at the batery terminals should be within only fractions of a volt, depending on the load (say 13.7 or 13.8 V). If you see a larger difference (like 2 volts lower than the reading at the alt), then you need to find the poor connection that causes the drop and impedes the charging.
Inspect the big terminal (where the +BATT supply wire feeds into the main fusebox). Also, take a look at the ground straps. Look for corroded terminals, loose connections, or discolored insulation.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 12 Apr 2014, 14:41

Glad to see we're gaining interest on this thread!

BATTERY VOLTS - you are correct in that the engine (while running properly) should be about 14v - 14.3v. if it's in the 13.xv range then I've heard that is "out-of-range" and should be looked into. Even w\ radio\CD, AC, Lights, DVDs running, it stays around 14.Xv.

INSTANCE - it happened again \Sunday night. Went to leave a friends house and it died pulling out of the driveway. I jumped it with a booster pack (that I purchased as a result of these incidents and carry in the xc90), and it ran fine... for about 20 minutes. I came back outside and it was down to 10.Xv on the batt. I called AAA, but after an hour of waiting, I started it up again and let it run for 10 minutes. I rolled the dice and drive home (10mi) w\o issue.

FUSES - The battery issue happened again this AM. So I looked more into it. As I was going over the vehicle I noticed that all the smaller fuses had build-up on the ends. I scraped\sanded them clean (will replace eventually) and it is running well again.

NEXT STEPS - This really seems like an intermittent BATT charging issue. After more reading, I'm wondering about ECM. I'll be looking over the various modules using the PDF i mentioned earlier as reference. Thanks to everyone for their input so far.

Thanks!

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 12 Apr 2014, 14:44

Ground Straps, Battery Cables, all look good. I wish my V8 offered better access to the alt to verify those wires a little better, but they seem attached and "ok". Thanks Regent

BTW, I had an '87 240 Wagon 5-speed manual that I had completely rebuilt as a teen, still looking for it...

Post by **regent** » 13 Apr 2014, 13:42

How old is that battery (silly question but just in case)

Never mind, I saw it was replaced not long ago.
Thanks

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 13 Apr 2014, 15:04

FUSES: So I started pulling fuses (just to check) inside engine compartment, inside drivers door, & back cargo area. I was surprised to find all the smaller fuses had build-u on the blades (black carbon-like build-up). I decided to pull them and clean\sand them down. I started it in the driveway, and let it run literally for almost an hour w/o issue (I know it's not good practice to let your cars idle for long periods, but...). Then I drove to friends' house about 15mi away, stopping off at 2x stores along the way. I then came back, also stopping along the way. No issues so far. This problem is like a phantom lurking in the dark, leaving us w\ not knowing when it might reach out and strike!!!
Thanks again for everyone's input.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 21 Apr 2014, 09:05

More importantly, when I stated build-up on blade fuses, they were all discolored (purple/rust colored - like oily almost) as if exposed to high heat/temp/current for long durations. I'm wondering if high volts would discolor these over time and the build up would create more resistance in various (if not all) the circuits.