1987 240 DL no spark from ignition coil

Jukexl · Post by **Jukexl** » 01 Mar 2014, 13:10

I drive an 87 volvo 240 dl. For the last six months i have had a reoccurring problem with my car not starting. We have changed the ignition coil, cleaned the grounds, changed the spark plugs / wires, changed the distributor cap, and changed the battery. The car is getting fuel but no fire. The car will run for a month fine and then it wont start for two weeks. Sometimes while im driving the car it will stall out the engine will knock like it ran out of gas and the car will turn off.The problem started when i jumped the car too many times and it burnt out the coil. any help or tips would be highly appreciated. thank you

Post by **rgk** » 03 Mar 2014, 18:06

This assumes you have the '87 'computerized' ignition system.

Remove a spark plug and prepare it by reconnecting it to a spark plug wire and laying it aside, ungrounded.

Disconnect the 3-pole connector from the distributor. With the connector facing you and the metal spring-type clip pointing up, jump the left terminal with the middle terminal. Turn the ignition switch ON (engine not running), and CAREFULLY (insulated pliers and rubber gloves) ground a spark plug to the engine block. Look for a spark.

(This assumes you have a Bosch ignition system. Chrysler ignition systems have a different, rounder connector. From what I can tell in the repair manual, the terminals to jump in Chrysler systems are the two outermost terminals)

If there is a spark, use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on the right terminal of the 3-pole distributor electrical connector (Bosch).

If there is voltage present and there is a spark at the plug, then replace the pick-up coil.

If there is no voltage present, and there is a spark at the plug, check the electrical circuit to the distributor. If necessary, replace the ignition module or control unit.

If there is no spark at the plug, check for battery voltage at terminal number 15 (+) on the ignition coil terminal. If there is no voltage present at the coil, check the wiring harness from the ignition coil to the ignition key for shorts or damaged harness.

If there is no spark at the plug, and there is battery voltage present at the coil, check for battery voltage on the blue wire directly at the ignition module electrical connector. If there is battery voltage present, check the ground strap for continuity (resistance) or damage.

If there is no battery voltage available at the ignition module, check the wiring harness to the ignition module for shorts or damage.

If all else fails, check for moisture under the distributor cap and check the rotor. Don't forget to report back if you find the problem. Aren't electrical problems fun?

Jukexl · Post by **Jukexl** » 06 Mar 2014, 09:47

Update on the status of my vehicle. I have recently gone to pauls volvo to ask their opinion on the situation. They told me to check the electric flow to the ignition coil they said that it should have a steady flow but the continuity checker should blink while testing the coil and it did not it stayed on. I do have a question how do you remove the three pole connector? Mine is brittle and i do not want to break it. Thank you for the feedback

Post by **rgk** » 09 Mar 2014, 18:44

That's a tough question to answer. If you have the Bosch system, the three pole connector can be removed by squeezing the little metal wire on the end of the connector to release the pressure holding the connector to the terminal. Sometimes those wires can be quite difficult to remove. Try gently prying at the end of the connector with a wide, flat screwdriver as you are pressing the wire and pulling it up.

Below is a link to what the Bosch connector SORT OF looks like (it's not the actual connector). Below that is what the Chrysler connector looks like.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ttW8fbCKZB4/U ... nector.JPG

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0027/5 ... 1373803292

Jukexl · Post by **Jukexl** » 11 Mar 2014, 11:39

Where is the ignition module? and could that be the source?

Post by **rgk** » 13 Mar 2014, 05:57

The ignition module is in the front of the engine bay, passenger side, directly in front of the coolant expansion tank, behind the windshield wiper pump(s). It's a rectangular black box with a large block of wiring going to it, as well as a vacuum line. The inlet for the vacuum line 'sticks out' of the black box and has a large circle around it.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7420/Ig ... MgodHWYAKg

Could it be the source of your problem? Yes, it can. Is it? That is up to you to determine based on the information provided.

Jukexl · Post by **Jukexl** » 15 Mar 2014, 13:05

There were two corroded wires beside the power steering pump that are held together by a grey connector. We repaired both wires and now whenever we unplug and re plug the grey connector we hear a short (electric shock or buzz) behind the distributor it seems to be coming from the circular object behind the distributor more towards the firewall under the intake.When the grey connector is plugged in we have no power to the coil (positive or negative side). But when it is unplugged we have power to both sides. Now im not sure if this is exactly where the sound is coming from but that is were it appears to be. any help or replies would be highly appreciated.

johnny volvo · Post by **johnny volvo** » 20 Mar 2014, 16:12

I can only speak from a similar experience I had with my 1989 240. I replaced my battery and then my alternator and then the car wouldn't start. Like you, I had no spark, so I replace the engine control module and the ignition coil and still nothing. As I was standing over the engine, on the driver's side, I noticed a fuse holder on the fender wall, near where the ignition coil is mounted. I pulled the fuse out, I think it's a 25 amp double blade fuse, and checked it. It looked fine. After a bit, I tried starting the car again and it fired right up.

It turned out the fuse holder had become corroded and simply the friction of pulling the fuse and reinserting it was enough to make contact. I had to replace the fuse holder and put in a new fuse, but it solved the problem.

Hope this helps.

Post by **rgk** » 21 Mar 2014, 23:23

From what you describe, it appears the sound you are hearing is coming from the Idle Air Control valve (IAC).

Whenever you are not stepping on the gas, this valve flaps open at a high speed, allowing air to bypass the closed throttle and reach the engine at idle. You may be short-circuiting it somehow by connecting that wire, I am not sure.

It is also possible you are grounding or shorting a relay, which buzz or click when activated. In any case, you still want to first check for spark.

You say you have power to the coil when the wire is unplugged. Does the car start when the wire is unplugged?