1997 850 Spark plugs & wires

[abscate]

Some of the garages here are asking $70 per spark plug. I may be a woman but I do my homework and that is outrageous

I could suggest a location for a 70 USD spark plug with these garages but that might not survive the moderation here.

Happy to be helpful.

You can evaluate your PCV with the 'glove test' to see if its urgent or something you can do later this year.

Do you know timing belt history on your car? That might be more important.

[rspi]

Order and replace them yourself. You can get the Volvo OEM plugs for your car for about $30 from most vendors on this site.

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4878/113 ... k-plug-set

Also, you can check the date on the wires, year/week. Yellow stamps on the wires. Tools will cost less than $20.

It is not necessary to put anti-seize on the plugs when installing them.

[davolvo]

Some of the garages here are asking $70 per spark plug. I may be a woman but I do my homework and that is outrageous

I could suggest a location for a 70 USD spark plug with these garages but that might not survive the moderation here.

Happy to be helpful.

You can evaluate your PCV with the 'glove test' to see if its urgent or something you can do later this year.

Do you know timing belt history on your car? That might be more important.

I did the glove test, it laid there like a lump on a log.

[davolvo]

Flame trap: this is a small plastic piece inside of the PCV system plumbing. I always recommend that this piece be thrown away. Just take it out and throw it in the trash. The rest of the PCV I would service if the car fails the "glove test" or if the existing PCV hoses appear to be brittle. At 110k the PCV is probably due for service but it can possibly go a long time without it. PCV doesn't fail catastrophically, pay attention to it and get to it when the job is needed.

Oxygen sensors: If you think they are original, then I would replace the front one. Bosch 15097 buy it from Amazon. Leave the rear one alone forever unless it throws a code.

Ignition parts: New Bougicord wires (I didn't look it up but like $70 online vendors) and Volvo plugs (like $35 from the Volvo dealer or from eBay) will go a long, long way. New Bosch cap and rotor (eBay will be the cheapest or buy them where you get the wires. I'd do it now if the wires are original (check the date code on the wires). You can buy Bosch copper plugs they are MUCH cheaper (like $2 each) but you have to change them more often.

The other thing that starts failing at/beyond 110k is front suspension parts. Again, keep an eye out for them, listen for clunks and pops and creaks, and loose handling and/or uneven tire wear. You can sensibly replace the struts whenever as a preventive measure but the rest I would wait for symptoms or you will end up spending a lot of money fast.

110k is kind of a critical point in the life of these cars. Because you see them down the road at 150k either where a lot of cheap aftermarket parts started going in at 110k, and they run like crap and are falling apart, or maintenance was done well and they run like a dream. With a creaky dash.

Oh my gosh, thank you so much for all the detailed information! You people are awesome!

[davolvo]

The other thing that starts failing at/beyond 110k is front suspension parts. Again, keep an eye out for them, listen for clunks and pops and creaks, and loose handling and/or uneven tire wear. You can sensibly replace the struts whenever as a preventive measure but the rest I would wait for symptoms or you will end up spending a lot of money fast.

Now, I took my car in a few weeks ago to get the exhaust checked and asked them to check my front end and stuff. They also did a safety check because I am going on a trip. They told me everything checked out fine BUT I would need to consider replacing the right axle and boot within a few months or so. HOWEVER, I have heard some creaks and clunks.

[abscate]

Probably sway bar links. They make some ugly noises when they get loose but they aren't a safety hazard if you drive like a grown-up.

If your boot is torn, you do want to deal with that sooner rather than later. Once dirt gets it in the CV joint, they fail and the driveshaft needs replacing or work over.

[QuirkySwede]

If you want the Volvo plug at a non-Volvo price, go with non-branded version the the long-life double-platinum OEM (8692071) which is the Bosch FR7DPP+ from Autozone ($6 each) or eEuro and fugetaboutit. If you want to buy OEM Volvo plugs and plan on driving it long enough to do more than one plug change, you get a cheaper per-plug-price if you buy the four-pack versus the five or six. Don't bother spinning your wheels with NGK, Autolite, Champion, or any other "nearly the same, but not" plugs.


They're a platinum-iridium alloy, as are "iridium" plugs which just have a greater percentage of iridium in the alloy. They are SPECIALTY OEM FINE WIRE plugs, which is different that the regular "platinum" plugs which only have a dot of center electrode exposed and THOSE "platinums" are what you want to avoid.

Should be good out of the box, but verify gap for either before installation (.7-.75mm, .028-.030") carefully and lightly with a feeler blade before installation without disturbing electrode tip, do NOT adjust, return.

All others vary in design and or are lesser plugs in terms of longevity, including Bosch coppers (and that's according to Bosch themselves, start on page 16). They might work, but just don't hold up as long due to metallurgical differences.

[erikv11]

If you want the Volvo plug at a non-Volvo price, go with non-branded version the the long-life double-platinum OEM (8692071) which is the Bosch FR7DPP+ ...

Note to OP: negative, you don't want these, they are the wrong plugs. These plugs are only for turbo cars.

If you want Volvo plugs these are $5.50 each:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7854/Sp ... z2wi0qugMl

[joe_pinehill]

I would order the Bougicord wireset. The last change I did I used the bosch set, they are good wires, but the lengths did not match the OEM exactly.