Thanks again vtl. Just read up on DICE VIDA. Nice little tool for Volvos. I'm going to think about getting one soon. I just spent about 300 bucks on parts like all 5 engine and torque mounts, oil trap, PCV breather hose, etc for the Volvo so I'll have to wait a little bit to buy one. Definitely grateful for the tip on DICE VIDA. I'm sure it'll come in very handy.
So what are some of the things that you can do to maintain the turbo or at least revive it?
2006 S60 How to clean turbocharger?
So I've been stepping on the pedal hard to almost red line after the new synthetic oil change, replaced 5 mounts with Hutchinson, new PCV hose, transmission flush, a full can of Seafoam in the gas tank, new spark plugs, and throttle body clean. Now when I step on it a little, I feel the turbo kicking in. I know most of the stuff I replaced don't have anything to do with the turbo, but I figured I would mention it anyways. Possibly red lining the car might have cleared some gunk from the dyno oil the previous owner used. The car runs like a champ now.
Hi Alron400 here,
1 Th "real issue is the Sludge Left in your Engine from the wrong Oil", so you need to "Scrub all of the Engine Internals" and it is easy to do as well.
2 I do it every 80,000 km or so as a real maintenance issue or in any car as I buy it in order to get to a starting base to work from.
These items were the start of the "Clean up of my 2000 V70 XC", you will notice the Nulon Oil Flush Black Bottle, this is the "Goods as we say" and does a great job on cleaning up any engine.
3 This will also make it to the "Turbo charger" and start the clean up of any sludge in the inside of the Turbo hosing, you do this Scrub in the following manner (I might just add in here that the Molly Product does much the same thing for you American's).
(i) Warm up the engine with the old oil still in there.
(ii) Add the Oil Flush to the Rocker Cover and start a Timer.
(iii) Let the car idle for say 20 minutes, longer if the car does have a lot of Km or Miles on it. (No More than 30 minutes as it starts to wear out metal after this time (it is that good) ).
(iv) After 5 minutes "Blip the Accelerator" to no more than 2,500 R.P.M, this splashes into the corners to remove the stubborn material (repeat this 2 (two) more times X 5 minutes apart).
(v) While all of this is going on you will start to notice a different sound coming out of the motor as it starts to clean up, this will include the Valve train and any Hydraulics that may have been clogged up and in being scrubbed the oil will "Wash Out the Carbon" and deposit it in the sump.
The Rings will even start to free up in the bores and the Rings may even start to Expand again and The Performance of the Motor will also improve.
(vi) This is what I use to free up things like the valve seats and to de-carbon the valves and the "Top of the Pistons", from what I can tell is that it works as a "Chemical Scrubber and Lubricator" that is 5 (five) times stranger than WD40. It is called "Inox" and it even De-rusts stubborn Bolts and gets in where you doubt that it can and I like to use this to free up Parking Brake Cables and similar items all over the cars. It is great to use in Building up Engines when adding all the bolts and hose onto the motor as well.
I have used this Chemical to Free up Engines that have not been started for years by Spraying it into the Spark Plug Hole and leaving it for a day or so to penetrate down around the rings and it loosen up the Rust in that bores at the same time, with Great results every time.
(vii) When your "Timed Scrub is up you drain the Oil and sludge out of the sump" and if the car has an Oil Cooler you should put the Sump Plug back in and add 3 (three) Lt of new Oil and crank the engine over for a minute in order to flush through the Oil Cooler and all of the Old Oil will again be deposited in the sump. Now Drain for the last time and replace the Old Oil Filter with a fresh unit. You will notice how "Thick and Black" the Oil is compared to a normal Oil Change and this is the "Broken Down Sludge" in a liquid form.
Above is my V70 Oil Pump that has just been pulled apart and in a corner of the Pump where there was no circulation there is still a lot of Sludge on a motor that is now very Clean as you can see in the balance of the Pump.
4 Now for the "Turbo Charger", you need to pull off all of the Incoming Piping Systems to give you access to the front of the Turbo.
5 You will only see a small amount, but this Photo shows you the access that you can get one hand into and you will be able to "Spin the Turbine with your fingers" and you will get a feel for how free the "Turbine is to start with".
6 Now you start the "Inox Treatment" and Spray in liberal amounts of the Lubricant and then start to "Spin the Turbine Free", as you will feel the Turbine start to move Free-er as it starts to De-Carbon, just do it as long as you can or feel that it is not getting any free-er. You will be amazed I assure you of this if you put in the effort!
7 I do mine on the Bench when I can, but I did my V70 in the car as I have described and it works a treat now.
8 See how you get on, but in any case have a lot of fun along the way.
Catch you on the Open Road.
1 Th "real issue is the Sludge Left in your Engine from the wrong Oil", so you need to "Scrub all of the Engine Internals" and it is easy to do as well.
2 I do it every 80,000 km or so as a real maintenance issue or in any car as I buy it in order to get to a starting base to work from.
3 This will also make it to the "Turbo charger" and start the clean up of any sludge in the inside of the Turbo hosing, you do this Scrub in the following manner (I might just add in here that the Molly Product does much the same thing for you American's).
(i) Warm up the engine with the old oil still in there.
(ii) Add the Oil Flush to the Rocker Cover and start a Timer.
(iii) Let the car idle for say 20 minutes, longer if the car does have a lot of Km or Miles on it. (No More than 30 minutes as it starts to wear out metal after this time (it is that good) ).
(iv) After 5 minutes "Blip the Accelerator" to no more than 2,500 R.P.M, this splashes into the corners to remove the stubborn material (repeat this 2 (two) more times X 5 minutes apart).
(v) While all of this is going on you will start to notice a different sound coming out of the motor as it starts to clean up, this will include the Valve train and any Hydraulics that may have been clogged up and in being scrubbed the oil will "Wash Out the Carbon" and deposit it in the sump.
The Rings will even start to free up in the bores and the Rings may even start to Expand again and The Performance of the Motor will also improve.
I have used this Chemical to Free up Engines that have not been started for years by Spraying it into the Spark Plug Hole and leaving it for a day or so to penetrate down around the rings and it loosen up the Rust in that bores at the same time, with Great results every time.
(vii) When your "Timed Scrub is up you drain the Oil and sludge out of the sump" and if the car has an Oil Cooler you should put the Sump Plug back in and add 3 (three) Lt of new Oil and crank the engine over for a minute in order to flush through the Oil Cooler and all of the Old Oil will again be deposited in the sump. Now Drain for the last time and replace the Old Oil Filter with a fresh unit. You will notice how "Thick and Black" the Oil is compared to a normal Oil Change and this is the "Broken Down Sludge" in a liquid form.
4 Now for the "Turbo Charger", you need to pull off all of the Incoming Piping Systems to give you access to the front of the Turbo.
6 Now you start the "Inox Treatment" and Spray in liberal amounts of the Lubricant and then start to "Spin the Turbine Free", as you will feel the Turbine start to move Free-er as it starts to De-Carbon, just do it as long as you can or feel that it is not getting any free-er. You will be amazed I assure you of this if you put in the effort!
- DSCN5129.JPG (113.52 KiB) Viewed 1287 times
8 See how you get on, but in any case have a lot of fun along the way.
Catch you on the Open Road.
V70 XC 2000 AWD[/b] Wagon. (New to me)
850 T5 '94 Estate 7 Seater. (Owned since 2013)
Nissan Maxima J31 2004 Ti 3.5 Lt Sedan.
Nissan Maxima A32 1998 30G 3.0 Lt Sedan.
Nissan Skyline R33 GT-S 1993 2.5 Lt N.A. Coupe.
Nissan 300ZX '86 3.0 Lt Turbo (Modified GT Tourer).
850 T5 '94 Estate 7 Seater. (Owned since 2013)
Nissan Maxima J31 2004 Ti 3.5 Lt Sedan.
Nissan Maxima A32 1998 30G 3.0 Lt Sedan.
Nissan Skyline R33 GT-S 1993 2.5 Lt N.A. Coupe.
Nissan 300ZX '86 3.0 Lt Turbo (Modified GT Tourer).
-
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- Joined: 1 November 2008
- Year and Model: 2006 V70 2.5t
- Location: Texas
- Has thanked: 2 times
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Why not hook up a proper boost gauge and actually SEE what the turbo does? In my 2006 V70, I have to get on it to get into boost.
When you're in the turbo it should get to 7psi and hold that until you let off the pedal. If it's nice and solid there, that would indicate that the Turbo Control Valve is in good shape.
If the car burps before you get to the boost, check for vacuum leaks. Particularly the little hose right on top of the intake manifold.
If the previous owner used regular oil (as specified by Volvo) and changed it at 7500 miles, your PCV oil separator is probably clogged, so get the $300 kit from FCP and replace it and when you're in there, clean the block drains for it too!
As for cleaning the engine - most people seem to discourage the "strong detergent" method for fear of dislodging large chunks of gunk to block oil passages and eating up your engine.
I don't know if that's true, but in my own cars, I've always switched to Mobil 1 of the proper spec for my engine (your engine should require ACEA 3/4 but check that first, my memory is fuzzy there!!!).
You can't determine that an oil is dirty by looking at it, so change to Mobil 1 synthetic, run it for a thousand miles or whatnot, then send a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. That will tell you if you have coolant/exhaust/metal and additives (TBN) in the oil. That tells you what shape it's in. You can change the oil more frequently the first few times to get a gentle flush going if you feel it's worth it.
This would include the turbos lubrication too - the air path of the turbo is probably fine. It gets pretty hot, so I can't imagine why it would need removal and harsh chemicals.
Still, hook up a proper gauge to determine that the turbo does what it should.
When you're in the turbo it should get to 7psi and hold that until you let off the pedal. If it's nice and solid there, that would indicate that the Turbo Control Valve is in good shape.
If the car burps before you get to the boost, check for vacuum leaks. Particularly the little hose right on top of the intake manifold.
If the previous owner used regular oil (as specified by Volvo) and changed it at 7500 miles, your PCV oil separator is probably clogged, so get the $300 kit from FCP and replace it and when you're in there, clean the block drains for it too!
As for cleaning the engine - most people seem to discourage the "strong detergent" method for fear of dislodging large chunks of gunk to block oil passages and eating up your engine.
I don't know if that's true, but in my own cars, I've always switched to Mobil 1 of the proper spec for my engine (your engine should require ACEA 3/4 but check that first, my memory is fuzzy there!!!).
You can't determine that an oil is dirty by looking at it, so change to Mobil 1 synthetic, run it for a thousand miles or whatnot, then send a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. That will tell you if you have coolant/exhaust/metal and additives (TBN) in the oil. That tells you what shape it's in. You can change the oil more frequently the first few times to get a gentle flush going if you feel it's worth it.
This would include the turbos lubrication too - the air path of the turbo is probably fine. It gets pretty hot, so I can't imagine why it would need removal and harsh chemicals.
Still, hook up a proper gauge to determine that the turbo does what it should.
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