95 850T crank no start after head gasket

[aljefanfrey]

so, this car has been down a while now, its my roommates and i need his car up and running to work on other things and so he can get to work on his own...

so, we did the head gasket, timed it (3 separate times now), checked sensors, vacuum lines, wiring, fuel pressure, etc.

im almost to the point of giving up on this car, so im asking for help on what to do, from the beginning.

ill try to be as timely as possible, especially now that its starting to get sunny out here.

[AVIP]

I'd check compression when you can. Assuming the battery is good id check starter. And grounds

[jose456891]

An engine needs a couple of things to work:

1) Fuel
2) Spark
3) Compression
4) Timing

Since you already have quite confidently done timing, I would now check for compression. I believe 160 psi plus is within the expected number. If yo did the job correctly, your numbers will be higher. Then I would check fuel. Check for the correct fuel pressure at the rail. I believe it should be around 40 psi. Then move to spark. A number of things will affect this, most notably cam sensors, engine rpm sensor, any connection from the ignition coil trigger cable, coil, coil to cap, ignition rotor, cap, wires, plugs. Check that you have the correct wires going to the correct plugs and the correct connectors at the cap.

I just read that it would not crank. OK, try to "bang" the starter, sometimes they get stuck. If that fails, recheck the connections to the starter. When I did my PCV system replacement, for some reason I removed the starter. When I plugged everything back in I did not connect the red cable that comes directly from the battery. <<<Check your starter and it's connections >>>

If that fails, try tu turn over the engine by hand, if it does not turn, he needs a new motor. If it turns, its the starter.

[erikv11]

The car needs these 4 things:

fuel
air
spark
compression

Fuel: is there pressure at the fuel rail with the key on? Does the fuel pump hum? Do the injectors click?
Air: no leaks, no clogs? This one can be a lot of hassle to track down.
Spark: pull a plug and check spark. If not then follow up on (in order) plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil.
Compression: Get a gauge and check it. Be sure the timing is right before you do, because bad timing will mean bad compression and can possibly damage the engine.

Check these 4 things, go from there.

Haha! I'm going to post anyway, looks like jose has posted almost the same thing ...

[jose456891]

+1 erikv11

I believe that my post was influenced by an old post by you. I kinda had the same thing happen to me last year.

[Ozark Lee]

Did you remove the spark plug wires from the distributor in the process?

The diagram in the Haynes manual is dead wrong on the spark plug wire locations on the distributor cap.

...Lee

[aljefanfrey]

Did you remove the spark plug wires from the distributor in the process?

The diagram in the Haynes manual is dead wrong on the spark plug wire locations on the distributor cap.

...Lee

no, we did not. but i rarely trust a haynes or chilton anyway... if you have a link to a proper diagram, ill gladly recheck.

Fuel: is there pressure at the fuel rail with the key on? Does the fuel pump hum? Do the injectors click?
Air: no leaks, no clogs? This one can be a lot of hassle to track down.
Spark: pull a plug and check spark. If not then follow up on (in order) plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil.
Compression: Get a gauge and check it. Be sure the timing is right before you do, because bad timing will mean bad compression and can possibly damage the engine.

yes, there is pressure at the rail, and smells like straight gas from the exhaust. fuel pump hums 2-3 sec before trying to start the car (i almost religiously check). injector click? i dont think ive heard of this... but with fuel out the exhaust, ive more or less eliminated the fuel system as the issue.

has spark on all 5, in sequence.

and i think my compression gauge is broken or im doing it wrong (nothings registering on it)... but then again, ive never used one on a car that didnt run.

Since you already have quite confidently done timing, I would now check for compression. I believe 160 psi plus is within the expected number. If yo did the job correctly, your numbers will be higher. Then I would check fuel. Check for the correct fuel pressure at the rail. I believe it should be around 40 psi. Then move to spark. A number of things will affect this, most notably cam sensors, engine rpm sensor, any connection from the ignition coil trigger cable, coil, coil to cap, ignition rotor, cap, wires, plugs. Check that you have the correct wires going to the correct plugs and the correct connectors at the cap.

I just read that it would not crank. OK, try to "bang" the starter, sometimes they get stuck. If that fails, recheck the connections to the starter. When I did my PCV system replacement, for some reason I removed the starter. When I plugged everything back in I did not connect the red cable that comes directly from the battery. <<<Check your starter and it's connections >>>

If that fails, try tu turn over the engine by hand, if it does not turn, he needs a new motor. If it turns, its the starter.

the motor cranks, just doesnt start, starter sounds fine and engages and rotates the motor. i havent checked the exact pressure on the fuel rail but i can tell you push the shrader while cranking, that shit gets everywhere. so for me, pressure check= sat.

also, cam sensor and engine rpm sensor both resistance/voltage checked within specs.

[erikv11]

Sounds like you need to figure out the compression gauge - most auto parts stores will "rent" one out for free, I would go with that. A cold engine will still have lots of compression.

Could this be as simple as flooding? To test you would add one teaspoon of oil in every cylinder through the plug hole, replace plugs crank for a minute straight until it coughs to life.

Plug wire order
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31425

[aljefanfrey]

Sounds like you need to figure out the compression gauge - most auto parts stores will "rent" one out for free, I would go with that. A cold engine will still have lots of compression.

Could this be as simple as flooding? To test you would add one teaspoon of oil in every cylinder through the plug hole, replace plugs crank for a minute straight until it coughs to life.

Plug wire order
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31425

thanks for the link, verified wire order, bout to go do compression test now.

[erikv11]

FWIW the flooding thing is pretty common on these cars, it is often called "lawn mower syndrome."