2000 V70 XC multiple codes after installing parts

jebbcorp · Post by **jebbcorp** » 17 Apr 2014, 20:37

P0031 P0037 P0245 P0445 P0448 P1655
HOW can all these be happening at once?

replaced CVVT with used working part (someone suggested but don't know what priming the part means)
new Ipdusa turbo control valve (crusty hoses but those will be replaced)
Checked fuel cap (tank may be overfull)

Prior to installing these parts the only code was P1332 (and maybe another about valve timing?).
Drove in limp mode for 6 trips of 40 miles each before installing new CVVT (terrible gas mileage).
Could running in limp mode have hurt both the front and rear O2 sensors?
thanks,

jebbcorp · Post by **jebbcorp** » 17 Apr 2014, 20:39

helping my friend on this 2000 V70 XC awd car.
He has a brand new CVVT as well, but the one that went in seemed to be working by hooking up 12 v power.

jebbcorp · Post by **jebbcorp** » 18 Apr 2014, 05:43

found this:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=43634
we did just put in a new top motor mount... will check grounding there.
Don't know if the thread above by user lancechapin got the problem solved....

bgbraces · Post by **bgbraces** » 20 Apr 2014, 11:26

Hi all, and thanks for reading.

I'm BG, owner of this "new to me" V70CX w/ 164xxx miles. In a nutshell- the deal w/this car is that the PO was a 23y/o college grad that did the bare minimum- I'm literally saving it from the scrap heap - I paid $140.00 for it at a police impound lot. We removed the blown read drive shaft and drove 107 miles home. We probably wouldn't have driven it if we had really seen the shape of the DS front 1/2 shaft, but that's all history now. The car is Arctic White with a good body- no rust. The interior is pretty shot.

So far "we", (Jebbcorp and I) have done 2/3 new driveshafts (rear and DS), rear control links, an inner tie rod, new front rubber brake lines, new tires, a new/ Used ebay CVVT, a new IPD TCV (still needs new vac lines), new top motor mount , bulbs, new battery, alignment, new oil/filter, trans flush. The rest of basic plan is the basics - serp belt and pulley, timing belt and pulley w/ h20 pump, PCV system overhaul.

Future plans are (in no particular order) new IPD silicon hoses, IPD "blue" waste gate spring, engine management software, new suspension (Bilstein shocks and new stock springs and hardware) , and some Tasteful Interior and Exterior work. It will be a sleeper- if you know what I'm getting at. But as it stands, here is where we are now-

Car will pass safety for MA inspection. Bad News Is - after cleaning grounds, no change in codes.

I filed down then cleaned the motor mount ground strap at both ends w/ rubbing alcohol and also the accessible ground strap end on passenger top side of engine.

I currently have 7 recurrent codes there after erasing and re-scanning

CEL for P0136 P0445 P0448 P0245-
"pending" P0037 P0031 P1655

ETS light comes on after several starts w/ no reset

other observations:
1. Cruise Control is not working
2. AM radio has interference/ noise / feedback on known strong stations that increases with speed.
3. lights and running lights are ON in "O" position - no DRL's in this car?
4. Looks like there is a new DS front headlight,we just replaced PS foglight

Before installing a known working CVVT we only had 2 codes - the CVVT is a used part, but activated when tested to the battery.

Questions:
1. Can bad wiring be causing multiple codes?
2. Should I begin replacing the O2 sensors and evap system parts?
(If so, can I use the "universal" type O2 sensors that are $55 vs $250?)
3. What to do regarding evap system if needed?
4. Could replacing the CVT cause the engine to throw more codes now it is functioning "properly"?

Plan:
1. I will do a hard reset
2. I will check voltage on B+ wire to main fuse box as there is some corrosion on this cable and I have read that any drop in voltage to the main fuse box can cause codes to pop.

Anybody's advice would be very helpful - I have 60 days to re-inspect for MA.
Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement in advance!
BG

bgbraces · Post by **bgbraces** » 20 Apr 2014, 19:53

Update- No change after hard ECM unit reset (disconnect battery for 15 min)

Anyone?
Bueller?
Bueller?
Bueller?

Post by **E Showell** » 23 Apr 2014, 09:30

Don't get cheapo O2 sensors. Denso for the 2000, I believe. Amazon through MVS should have parts for less than $250 -- probably around $100, but I haven't checked recently.

jebbcorp · Post by **jebbcorp** » 02 May 2014, 15:02

We now are being told that it is an ECU problem.
The local mechanic Bob Denley told first there was no signal coming from the accelerator pedal position sensor, and the throttle body itself (white sticker) likely gone bad from jump starting the car. We replaced those parts, but still have all the codes. The parts we replaced now have good communication with the car's systems, thus the ECU diagnosis. We are having the ECU serviced. Then we will see.

When we got the car it had a dead battery. We jump started it by hooking red to red and black to black from a running car and turning the key. Could this have fried the electrical system... CVVT, accelerator position sensor, throttle body, and ECU? We should have charged the battery for a while, taken the jumper cables off, then tried to start the car? anyway the budget is blown and the repair is costing a bunch more Benjamins than planned. Never jump start a car like the good old days?

Post by **E Showell** » 02 May 2014, 15:39

My initial response was a bit cryptic having been posted from a cell phone while traveling.

My understanding of proper jumpstart technique for these cars, and perhaps any other, is positive battery terminal to positive battery terminal, but you don't want to hook the negative terminals together.

Instead, you take the negative cable from the battery post of the running car and clamp it to a spot of bare metal on the block of the car you are attempting to jump -- something like a lifting eye (and not for example, the fuel rail), that the jumper cable will clamp to.

If you go battery to battery with all cable connections I believe it is an excellent way to blow up a battery, although I have never had the pleasure.

Your battery post-to-batttery post connection technique on all four cable connections may, indeed, have fried the electrics on the car you were attempting to jump. I can't tell you why, however, since my knowledge of things electrical is rudimentary at best.