1998 V70 Rear brake pad pins rusted

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 21 Apr 2014, 08:26

I am replacing the rear pads on my 1998 V70. Problem is, I cannot get the pins out! I have put PB blaster on for several hours but they are not budging. I am using a punch to try and knock them out, but I am afraid I will flatten out the end and add to my delima of trying to push them through the caliper. Any suggestions?

drgswede1978 · Post by **drgswede1978** » 21 Apr 2014, 10:19

Why do you need the pinns out?
Just take the whole caliper off and compress the piston with pipe grips. But saying that if the are that rusted up might be time to renovate them.

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 21 Apr 2014, 11:48

Thanks...I did not think of that...that is a really good idea. But you are right. If they are that bad, well, maybe reman calipers as well...I did that on a '99 once, had a similar problem. Things were so rusted I end up replacing calipers and brake lines.

Post by **rmmagow** » 21 Apr 2014, 12:09

If you want to play, go to a car parts place and see if you can buy a gallon jug of "EvapRust". Take off the calipers and place the pin side down in a container filled with this stuff and leave it overnight. The rust will be dissolved. I used this to free up a pair of unobtainable wheel cylinders on my old mb. Dissolved enough so I could disassemble and sort of rebuild them. Stuff works pretty good.

Post by **cn90** » 21 Apr 2014, 12:56

- Get new hardware kit (pins etc.) from dealer. They are cheap. PN 217831.
- Soak the pin INNER end with some PB Blaster and let it sit.
- Then use a nail set + hammer, it should come out.

Post by **abscate** » 21 Apr 2014, 17:27

Just use a punch a bit smaller than the pin diameter. I have never mushroomed one enough to cause a problem, and I've had some nice rusty ones over the years.

Post by **Ben850** » 21 Apr 2014, 17:56

I have not had a problem with the pins, but may soak the complete rear caliper assemblies in a penetrating formula, as to break loose the line nuts.
Just kidding, but it is another irksome repair that can be a problem that I will make sure I have another vehicle on hand to get parts.
I do plan on doing this for my Wagon, and have the calipers, pads, appropriate fluids, line wrenches, five different penetrating fluids,(including the stuff that has liquid Nitrogen) rotors.. Oh, and a torch.

Also, a helper to catch flying tools, and/or body parts.

Bloitz · Post by **Bloitz** » 22 Apr 2014, 04:17

abscate wrote:Just use a punch a bit smaller than the pin diameter. I have never mushroomed one enough to cause a problem, and I've had some nice rusty ones over the years.

yep, I used a punch as well and some CRC penetrating oil (PB blaster is probably equally good, we don't have that in Europe AFAIK), it flattened them a bit but eventually got them out. I think that's the reason they are cone-shaped at the end so you can flatten them a bit without causing issues.

Tried cleaning them up but I would say: just get the new hardware before you begin
Started manually cleaning them with a wire brush but quickly grabbed a grinder with a wire wheel. This made the clip fly away into the abyss never to be found again

.

PS: Use a "block" hammer (the heavy block type), not a carpenter's hammer. Getting something loose is all about the momentum and carpenter's hammers are just not heavy enough

Post by **E Showell** » 22 Apr 2014, 10:30

In the rear, even if you compress the caliper pistons, you're still looking at pins driven through little holes in the pads to retain them in place. Without separating pin from caliper, I am at a loss as to how you would be able to remove the pads. Fronts, of course are a whole different story.

Post by **JimBee** » 22 Apr 2014, 11:32

In my experience, the pins will yield to the hammer before flattening. Those pins are hard steel. I use a light ballpene and tap the slightly protruding tip until it is flush with the casting. It has to yield. Then either a small punch or another pin to drive them through. So far, that has always worked.