1999 V70 Base - No crank after replacing RMS and ATPump seal

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 21 Apr 2014, 19:24

Hello.

Thanks to these forums and 'wheelsup's excellent writeup, I was able to drop the subframe, separate the transmission and change out the torque converter seal (and the RMS, while I was in there). I put everything back together, and it seemed to be going well (despite taking about 20 hours to do; the actual seal changes took about 15 minutes).

Tried to start up, dash lights come on, but no crank when I turn the key to position III. The headlights go out while in position III, and come back on then I turn back to position II. The entire time the dash lights are on.

I've rechecked my connections, check for voltage on the green spade clip wire on the starter solenoid (I get battery voltage), bridged the starter terminals and confirmed the starter turns when voltage is applied.

What else could this be? I've been reading about immobilizers, and ignition switches, but I don't know what to try next.

Anyone have any ideas? After all of this work, this is very frustrating!

Thanks,
Chris

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 22 Apr 2014, 11:44

No takers?

Post by **rmmagow** » 22 Apr 2014, 13:51

I wish I knew more but I do think this is an immobilizer problem. Some kind of antenna ring or some such. or tranny lock out switch? Did you try moving the shifter while holding key in crank position?

Post by **scot850** » 22 Apr 2014, 15:25

There have been a few threads if you check for problems with 850's and V/S 70's that when you separate the engine and transmission, you have to make sure the faces between the 2 are cleaned and have not oxidised. Apparently this can prevent earthing between the 2 units and stop the engine starting. Rather than strip it all down again, one guy said he looped a wire from one to the other and all was then good. Strange but true!!

Neil.

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 22 Apr 2014, 19:19

Thanks Neil. I need to look into this. I recall that the bell housing was very clean, and it would seem that the bolts connecting the engine to the bellhousing would tie them together. Still, I'll try a separate wire.

Here's what I have done in the meantime with no solution.

1. Measured the voltage between the green wire (starter solenoid wire) and ground while the key is in position III (start position). 12.5V.

2. Measured the voltage between the red (4 ga) wire from the battery. 12.5V always.

3. Took the starter and solenoid off the car and tested with a spare battery. Was able to make the solenoid actuate, and separately make the starter motor activate, then I was able to make both activate at the same time by bridging the tab and the large positive terminal. The starter and solenoid seem to be working as they should.

4. Swapped the "J" relays. No change, so I moved them back to their original locations.

I don't understand how I can get 12V on the green wire from the ignition and have 12V on the main positive lead, and not fire the starter and solenoid.

I'm going to clean all of the leads again and apply some dialectic gel and try again. This doesn't make sense!

Any other ideas?

-Chris

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 23 Apr 2014, 21:21

Well, after further review, i see that I'm not getting voltage on the green ignition cable? I thought I was, but maybe I misread it.

Checked all of my connections. Took apart the PNP switch and cleaned and reassembled. I searched all over the car for another loose connection but couldn't find one.

What's in between the ignition and the starter? Where should I look next?

Thanks!

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 24 Apr 2014, 20:37

Bad ignition switch...

Fixed. And running. 10 minutes to replace... $62 with tax at the local dealer.

How frustrating.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Apr 2014, 23:42

Glad you got there in the end! Really frustrating when it was not related to the original problem!

Neil.