2000 S70 - Control arm + caliper question

erikvonb · Post by **erikvonb** » 03 May 2014, 16:06

Hi there,

I've been lurking here for a while. I bought a 2000 s70 recently with low kms (132000km) and no rust.

I was advised when I purchased the car that the front left tie rod may need to be replaced. There is some side to side play when we had it up on the lift. The mechanic suggested that I replace the front left tie rod, as well as the left control arm. Is replacing the control arm necessary? Couldn't the bushings just be replaced?

Also, the right rear caliper is sticking and I was advised to just replace it instead of messing around trying to fix it. Thoughts?

I'm thinking about buying the parts off Amazon or an online dealer, since I'll be heading to the US next week (I'm in Ottawa, Canada.) I want to make sure I'm picking up quality parts. Any suggestions on what/where to buy from?

Any help is appreciated...

- Erik

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 03 May 2014, 16:26

Welcome to MVS!

The control arm bushings can't be replaced separately, the entire control arm has to be replaced.

If you have the time, knowledge, and most importantly the interest, then you can rebuild the caliper yourself. FCP carries a rebuild kit.

As far as parts go any of the MVS sponsors listed at the top of the page are reputable. For most parts I use either IPD or FCP. FCP is nice because they offer a lot of kits to replace multiple components for each system in the car, i.e. brake kits, suspension kits, etc.

If you are already replacing a tie rod and a control arm it may be a good idea to go ahead and order a complete front suspension kit from FCP and replace both control arms, endlinks, inner and outer tie rods all at the same time.

Post by **cn90** » 03 May 2014, 18:29

The control arm: consider replacing a pair as when the Left goes the Right follows soon. The reason I say do this in a pair is that: on the long run, you save alignment costs.

The Rear Caliper: search for the brake overhaul I wrote a while back. The 11-mm nut between the metal line and the caliper likely seizes in place. So, even if you have a new caliper ready, you may not be able to swap because the nut is seized! Best is to get the ATE rebuild kit (seal, boot) for about $25, and replace it "in situ". See my DIY for further detail.

erikvonb · Post by **erikvonb** » 03 May 2014, 21:46

polskamafia mjl wrote:Welcome to MVS!

The control arm bushings can't be replaced separately, the entire control arm has to be replaced.

If you have the time, knowledge, and most importantly the interest, then you can rebuild the caliper yourself. FCP carries a rebuild kit.

As far as parts go any of the MVS sponsors listed at the top of the page are reputable. For most parts I use either IPD or FCP. FCP is nice because they offer a lot of kits to replace multiple components for each system in the car, i.e. brake kits, suspension kits, etc.

If you are already replacing a tie rod and a control arm it may be a good idea to go ahead and order a complete front suspension kit from FCP and replace both control arms, endlinks, inner and outer tie rods all at the same time.

Thanks for the quick reply!

My initial thoughts are usually to not mess around and do it right if I'm going to do it at all. The thing is, that I didn't pay much for the vehicle, so I don't want to put too much money into it. I searched around the sponsors sites you mentioned...is there a particular caliper rebuild kit you would recommend? Also, which FCP suspension kit would you recommend? Or, what would you stay away from?

I'm going to give this a go myself, with the help of a friend. I might even have access to a lift and a guy with some knowledge.

- Erik

erikvonb · Post by **erikvonb** » 03 May 2014, 21:52

cn90 wrote:The control arm: consider replacing a pair as when the Left goes the Right follows soon. The reason I say do this in a pair is that: on the long run, you save alignment costs.

The Rear Caliper: search for the brake overhaul I wrote a while back. The 11-mm nut between the metal line and the caliper likely seizes in place. So, even if you have a new caliper ready, you may not be able to swap because the nut is seized! Best is to get the ATE rebuild kit (seal, boot) for about $25, and replace it "in situ". See my DIY for further detail.

I checked your post history, and couldn't find the brake overhaul post you mentioned. Do you have a link?

I found this rebuild kit http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-d ... 850-271583 It seems pretty inexpensive. Would this be something you would recommend?

- Erik

Post by **cn90** » 04 May 2014, 08:47

The brake overhaul is below. It is a very comprehensive overhaul.

Note: you may as well replace the 2 front hoses + 1 rear hose (the LR hose). The hose lying on top of the delta links is a huge challenge, so leave it alone.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=37721

The REAR caliper rebuild kit is made by ATE 270902, used to be $15, now is about $30.
Considering that this is safety/liability issues, stick to ATE brand and move on. Don't use cheap Chinese stuff, you may regret later.

Post by **abscate** » 04 May 2014, 11:28

The thing is, that I didn't pay much for the vehicle, so I don't want to put too much money into it.

You've got that backwards, I think.

The Volvo Gods eventually extract their tithe.

Push some fluid out of the caliper and if it is dirty brown, consider just replacing the caliper. Once they get water and rust building up, the will stick and take out your rotor and wheel bearing if you are unlucky and don't smell them melting down.

Btw, if you touch rotors from seized calipers you get the delightful sizzle of finger tips for a few seconds before your neurons overload your brain with pain.

Post by **cn90** » 04 May 2014, 13:46

Erik,

I forgot to mention that once you have a SEIZED rear caliper, chances are one of the pistons is corroded. So, you have 2 options:

1. Buy 2 brand new pistons (38-mm type, detail in the link above), then replace the seal, boot (ATE brand).

2. Buy the rebuilt caliper from NAPA for about $55. Then transfer the boot, seal and pistons over the existing caliper body. This way you don't have to deal with the seized nut.

Again, the nut between the metal line + the caliper usually seized in place, almost impossible to remove w/o cutting the line, search forum and you will see.

erikvonb · Post by **erikvonb** » 04 May 2014, 19:39

abscate wrote:
The thing is, that I didn't pay much for the vehicle, so I don't want to put too much money into it.
You've got that backwards, I think.

The Volvo Gods eventually extract their tithe.

Push some fluid out of the caliper and if it is dirty brown, consider just replacing the caliper. Once they get water and rust building up, the will stick and take out your rotor and wheel bearing if you are unlucky and don't smell them melting down.

Btw, if you touch rotors from seized calipers you get the delightful sizzle of finger tips for a few seconds before your neurons overload your brain with pain.

I'm thinking I might just end up getting a new caliper and be done with it, as it's going to be driven mostly by my GF and I don't want to worry about it again.

Thanks for the tips!

erikvonb · Post by **erikvonb** » 04 May 2014, 19:42

cn90 wrote:Erik,

I forgot to mention that once you have a SEIZED rear caliper, chances are one of the pistons is corroded. So, you have 2 options:

1. Buy 2 brand new pistons (38-mm type, detail in the link above), then replace the seal, boot (ATE brand).

2. Buy the rebuilt caliper from NAPA for about $55. Then transfer the boot, seal and pistons over the existing caliper body. This way you don't have to deal with the seized nut.

Again, the nut between the metal line + the caliper usually seized in place, almost impossible to remove w/o cutting the line, search forum and you will see.

Would I be better off buying the whole caliper and piston as a package? (seal, boot, and caliper all together)