98 s70 gtl Nostart, MVSOLVED cam position sensor

Caliracergirl · Post by **Caliracergirl** » 30 May 2014, 21:03

Hello this is my first post I have a 1998 s70 GTL it was running fine had a few times where it didnt want to start but eventually i got it going. was running fine last week I drove it around durning the day then my mom took the car to work it was parked for four hours and wouldnt start. It gave her a code that she said was the camshaft position sensor relay malfunction(I wasnt there so I didnt see the code). Anyways the car wouldnt start so I changed the fuel pump relay and the car started. Well my curosity got the better of me and I removed the relay while the car was running and it died. Put the relay back in and car wont start again. I had to get the car towed and my tow guy ran the code and it came up with crankshaft position sensor then later ran the code again and gave a p0340 code. I know the fuel pump relays good, I can hear the fuel pump kicking on, changed the spark plugs, and fuel filter. I thought it might be air lock in the fuel system but i have fuel coming out of the pressure release valve when I turn the key forward. I ran some test and it seems im not getting spark so I figured its the camshaft position sensor or the ignition coil is bad. Please help I dont know what I did to the car.

Post by **erikv11** » 31 May 2014, 09:10

I don't think you did anything to make the car worse. Sounds like you just happened to be fiddling with the fuel pump relay at a time when something else was going wrong.

The camshaft position sensor is a very common failure item on these cars at this age, that is what I would check first. There is no easy way to test them so you want to put in one that you know is good. A junkyard unit is a good way to go. If you choose to get a new one, I wouldn't trust the local autoparts store item, unless it is a Bosch. You can order one online e.g. http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7929/Ca ... z33J37KP5F.

The CPS is located on the rear of the exhaust cam, held on by two torx screws (T40 maybe?). It is easy to replace but it is crowded in there, you have to wade through vacuum lines and the intake pipe that leads down to the turbo.

Post by **cn90** » 31 May 2014, 10:34

The fuel pump RELAY: make a jumper wire and jump 15 and 87, if engine runs fine, then relay is bad.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=52252

CAM sensor: as erik said, go for Bosch, a used Bosch CPS at junk yard is about $10. Ebay has a whole bunch of used Bosch CPS for sales too. Not a bad idea to have it in the trunk of the car as spare.

CRANK sensor rarely goes bad, but it does sometimes...

Post by **cn90** » 31 May 2014, 10:38

The ignition coil rarely goes bad, if it does, then junk yard sells it for $10. Use Bosch only!
All you need is 10-mm socket to remove it from the junk yard.

Post by **jose456891** » 31 May 2014, 23:26

Fuel Filter, Immobilizer, bad cables, bad rotor/cap, burned-out pump, bad injector relay, Cam sensor, RPM sensor, bad ECU grounds (check cables next to ping sensors).

Have you checked for spark / fuel?

Caliracergirl · Post by **Caliracergirl** » 01 Jun 2014, 00:44

I tested my camshaft position sensor using how identifix infored me to it said;
had key tured to position 2.
1. Test the camshaft position sensor by testing voltage between pins 1 and 3 at the CMP connector should see 10.5v or higher. I tested this and got 11.68.
I tested from pin 1(yellow/red wire) to ground(battery) and got 11.66.
pin 2(blue/yellow wire) to ground(battery) and got 11.56
pin 3(brown/black wire) and got 0.015
I also tested it while connected by probing a metal pin through the back to test wires. I cant remember the reading but I will test it again tomorrow when its daylight.
Does this sound like a bad sensor?

I tried the jumper method between 15 and 87 when it wouldnt start and it didnt start the vehicle. then I changed the relay and it started but thats when I got curious and pulled the relay while the vehicle was running car died replaced relay and car wouldnt start again. but relay works and the fuel pump turns on.

I tested the crankshaft sensor and the ohms are suppose to be between 200-500 and it came up 296 i think so thats fine.

how do you test the ignition coil?

ive changed the fuel filter the old one was clogged. Im getting fuel turned the key while someone pressed the valve and fuel came out, I dont have spark.

Post by **erikv11** » 01 Jun 2014, 08:27

Here is some more info on the backprobe method, it is the only way to test these, see the post by jimmy57, he really knows his stuff:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35244

This thread has a post that also looks good but it is very long, I confess I did not read it

:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31301

Caliracergirl · Post by **Caliracergirl** » 01 Jun 2014, 14:19

I keep reading that the ignition coil doesnt go out very often is this true? and if so could the culprit be the ignition control module or the ignition switch? How do you test these?
I read you can test the ignition switch by measuring the voltage of pin 15 in the fuel pump relay connector to a ground and it should be 12v. I put the key in position 2 when i have the red lead on pin 15 and the black lead on the battery it reads 11.81 is this bad?
Should I try tesings my wire cap and rotor? and if so how would i do that?
Also is there a way to test the ignition coil? Ive been lookin around and cant seem to find an answer to this question. I tried disconnecting the ignition coil wire from the distributor side and having it touch a piece of metal to look for spark i didnt see spark but i may have did it wrong or just cant see it good enough since I was doing this test by myself.
Sorry i have so many questions but this is my first volvo and i dont like buying parts that I dont need especially if theyre not going tofix the problem.

Caliracergirl · Post by **Caliracergirl** » 01 Jun 2014, 18:11

i also noticed that we I turn the key off there's a low humming sound coming from under the hood it sounds like its either in the back of the motor near the cam sensor or in he front of the motor near the IAC and starter I read on a forum that your not suppose to hear a humming sound after you turn the key off.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jun 2014, 18:31

It could be a bleed down of vacuum (normal) or other things.

At some point you have to stop thinking about what has been done, and go back to basics starting with compression in all 5 cylinders, then going fuel, ignition, timing