MSD Coil wiring help
MSD Coil wiring help
OK guys - have the MSD coil mounted and had it connected using the factory connector. I just used a grinder to cut off the rivets from the factory mount and then connected the wires it to the MSD coil. I wrapped it all in electrical tape to prevent it from shorting. The unit, as can be seen in the pic, got very hot and obviously fried something inside since I lost fire to the coil. This only happened after an extended driving period - it had been fine for several weeks of around town driving. Are you supposed to bypass this connector altogether when using the MSD and please verify the correct wiring for me. Thanks
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JDS60R
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not supposed to bypass it.
You took it off of the heatsink (bracket) that keeps it from failing.
You took it off of the heatsink (bracket) that keeps it from failing.
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- matthew1
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(Not trying to rub salt into your wound, Brad.) Here's the bracket for those of you wondering what it looks like.

I don't understand what happened... did it short against the body of your Volvo?

I don't understand what happened... did it short against the body of your Volvo?
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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JDS60R
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- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
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Uggh - I did not explain well- I'll try again
The photo Matt posted is the bracket for the coil. That coil does not require an additional heat sink(although they don't hurt) so any piece of metal will do. Or bolt it to the strut tower
I am speaking of the bracket you pried the converter off of. ( The original OEM bracket that both the OEM coil and converter were bolted to that bolted to the strut tower). (top pic page 4)
That little piece takes in the cam signal(wave) and coverts it to an on off pulse(square wave amd then through a transistor) on the ground side of the coil. The electronics in it get hot which is why it was riveted to the OEM bracket (and then to the strut tower)as a heat sink.
Please see the top picture on page 4 of the ipd instructions. You will see the square wave converter on its heat sink/bracket. Get a good used one on the bracket.
The photo Matt posted is the bracket for the coil. That coil does not require an additional heat sink(although they don't hurt) so any piece of metal will do. Or bolt it to the strut tower
I am speaking of the bracket you pried the converter off of. ( The original OEM bracket that both the OEM coil and converter were bolted to that bolted to the strut tower). (top pic page 4)
That little piece takes in the cam signal(wave) and coverts it to an on off pulse(square wave amd then through a transistor) on the ground side of the coil. The electronics in it get hot which is why it was riveted to the OEM bracket (and then to the strut tower)as a heat sink.
Please see the top picture on page 4 of the ipd instructions. You will see the square wave converter on its heat sink/bracket. Get a good used one on the bracket.
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