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DIY: Build your own positive battery cable 9456836 for the 850

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Fabricate a Positive Battery Cable DIY
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matthew1
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Re: DIY: Build your own positive battery cable for the 850

Post by matthew1 »

Jason, great DIY! Scheduled for inclusion in the repair database.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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ThommyKent
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Post by ThommyKent »

matthew1 wrote:Jason, great DIY! Scheduled for inclusion in the repair database.
Except it is not done correctly

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

My VRD entries always point back here to the forum, to the original post. So people will read this very thread and will know about the soldering no-no.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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ThommyKent
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Post by ThommyKent »

Thanks, good to hear!

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

From my boating life...

West Marine stores have a public crimper that they will let anyone use to crimp wires and swages.

Just tell them for its for your boat, and leave off the Volvo adjective .

Google west marine store locator to find the nearest one.
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jreed
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Post by jreed »

Thanks for the feedback! I don't know if the soldered connection will have better reliability than the crimped connections. I promise to field test mine and let everybody know as soon as it shows signs of failure.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

SpeedyPete
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Post by SpeedyPete »

Hello all out in Volvo land :P The idea that you can make a die and use a bench vice to crimp an electrical lug to proper torque pressure is flawed. To do it correctly one needs to use the proper tool. Our small lug compression tool reaches 12-15 tons and our large tool is in the 22 ton range. Note the different color stripes on the lugs. This is to identify which matching die to use in the tool to the lug being crimped. Best Wishes to all, SpeedyPete 8)

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

My positive cable let go entirely two days ago. I didn't know how far gone it was, and when I was working on fixing the battery to the tray (non-stock size battery, that's a whole 'nother story), the cable gave out.

So to get the car running as a temporary fix, I took off a bit of the end of the cable's sheath and screw clamped it to the terminal clamp.

Image

It's ugly but it works. It's temporary until I can get the parts for this DIY.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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Post by jreed »

Ingenious! I'm curious to see more pictures of your method!
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can get perfectly good electrical connection, long term with stripping and bolting battery cables vs swaged or compression lugs. They WILL need more maintenance and inspection for corrosion and correct tension but cars came this way for a long time. We crimp 100 amp marine connectors using rigging tools in the salt water environment where corrosion is much worse.
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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