I have a 2005 Volvo XC70 that the air started to act up. The other day it went out while we were in traffic where the compressor stopped kicking in and so the air starting blowing warm. We went into a store for about 15 mins and came out with the air working again. It worked the entire trip home. Today we were driving and it stopped again. I turned off the air completely and used the windows until we were about 2 miles from home I thought I would try it again, and it worked. I assume a sensor or switch is going out, but I wanted to check to see if anyone else had the same issue to try and pin point the problem before buying parts. Could it be the A/C pressure switch or something else?
Thank you for the help.
2005 XC70 A/C not working
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jimmy57
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You are listing a textbook set of symptoms for the compressor clutch wearing and the gap between the drive and driven plates getting too large. The magnetic winding is stronger until it gets warm from engine heat and from the heat of it being energized. Giving it a break lets it cool and work again for a time. There are a few fixes. I never use the "bread clip" fix myself but prefer to drop the subframe with engine and trans at front just enough to get access and remove a spacer shim that is found when you the drive plate. This shim lets the plate go back on few thousandths of an inch closer and the proper specification gap is restored and it works as designed once again.
searching in this forum using "clutch gap" will find lots of articles.
searching in this forum using "clutch gap" will find lots of articles.
- oragex
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As above, search on Google about A/C clutch plate gap and check yours see if it got too large (the A/C is the lowest pulley on the accessory belt).
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
I did the bread clip fix a few weeks ago, rather I used 3 small zip ties between the spring and clutch plate. Seems to be going fine at the moment. I couldn't remove the clutch to change the shims (which was my intention). I'm sure that it will fail if too much heat builds up on the clutch.
RL
RL
- abscate
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Shimming the clutch involves dropping the compressor to access the plate, it's a lot less labour to bread clip it. You don't have to break open the AC system to do this though.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
Can a new clutch be purchased or will resetting the gap last the same amount of time? The car has close to 140k miles on it and I would rather take care of the problem once so it will last another 140k miles.
Thank you for the helpful replies.
Thank you for the helpful replies.
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jimmy57
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a clutch is close the price of a new compressor and you have to remove compressor to get enough work space to replace clutch so it is very unwise to replace clutch only.
The wear that makes the clutch have your problem is minimal. Once adjusted I would think the fix will last another 100+ thousand miles. It has on many I have adjusted on several makes of automobiles including Volvo.
I don't know how reasonable your shop is but if that car has been in TN its whole life the clutch plate will slide off with no puller so the compressor will not have to come off. The repair should not take much more than an hour. The engine is hung by a engine support that any shop should have. The rear subframe bolts are loosened 3-4 turns and the fronts are removed. The support is used to lower the engine which tips the front of subframe down just enough to get to compressor. Radiator and heater hoses have enough length to allow it to come down the few inches needed.
The wear that makes the clutch have your problem is minimal. Once adjusted I would think the fix will last another 100+ thousand miles. It has on many I have adjusted on several makes of automobiles including Volvo.
I don't know how reasonable your shop is but if that car has been in TN its whole life the clutch plate will slide off with no puller so the compressor will not have to come off. The repair should not take much more than an hour. The engine is hung by a engine support that any shop should have. The rear subframe bolts are loosened 3-4 turns and the fronts are removed. The support is used to lower the engine which tips the front of subframe down just enough to get to compressor. Radiator and heater hoses have enough length to allow it to come down the few inches needed.
I have the same problem with my 2000 V-70. I couldn't find a detailed answer in my forum. When I found this discussion I took it to a mechanic and asked him if he could do this. His response was that if this procedure was done on my car, i.e., if the shim is removed, the compressor would run all the time. True? Please redirect me if this topic is being addressed in the appropriate forum. Thank you.
- abscate
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False. You are returning the clutch gap to the original 0.3-0.4mm, so the clutch will not be engaged when you are done.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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