pcv service

fredro · Post by **fredro** » 27 Mar 2013, 09:26

Hello, new to the forum. I just bought a 2001 S80 T6 and need help/steps on PCV service, by reading a few other posts, and the symptoms I have I need to perform the service.

I tried searching for a post on how to do this but can't find one, thanks for any help!

MyS40T4 · Post by **MyS40T4** » 06 Apr 2013, 00:21

Hello and welcome!

I'm in the process of changing the PVC piping myself for the first time on a 2000 S80 T6 and have got most of the dismantling out of the way... Disclaimer - this is my take on this and there may be easier more efficient ways of doing it! Maybe others can chime in with suggestions??

Before you start:
Get the PVC kit and a selection of 4/6/8mm silicon hose to replace the old original piping that's knackered. You might want to replace the convoluted tubing for the wiring as I can almost guarantee that the existing tubing will crumble to the touch... Better the tubing crumbles than the wiring goes hard and crunchy and breaks. I'm going to use worm drive and fuel line screw clips instead of the Volvo single use clips and the old cable ties someone had used before...

The list so far...
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the air filter housing and air intake from above radiator - provides better access.
Remove all air piping on top of engine watching for brittle connectors/hoses etc.
Remove injectors/fuel rail. Depressurize it first. Undo the torx screws for the injector retaining plate, remove the plate and carefully remove the fuel line from the rail. it has an o-ring for sealing.
Remove the inlet manifold: 7 x bolts (10mm socket). Watch for oil dip stick bracket (12mm socket) and coolant pipe bolted to bottom of inlet manifold (17mm socket). Not much room to play with. When lifting off the inlet manifold, the electronic throttle body wiring will still be connected. It has a bit of slack in the cabling so you can disconnect the connector (bottom of radiator). It's the dark grey connector

I removed the left side intercooler hose completely (when facing the engine bay) and disconnected the right side intercooler hose at the intercooler to make life easier. A lot of pipes came off...

This is where I'm up to...

The left side bolt that holds the oil trap to the engine block is very difficult to get at. Removal of the power steering pump/alternator and mounting bracket seems to be a necessity...

Also, I hadn't realised that the PVC piping also carries coolant (to heat the inlet manifold?) so the cooling system needs to be at least partially drained??

Not a drama for me as I can see a weepy heater coolant hose and need to replace the radiator anyway.

I'll replace convoluted tubing while I'm think about it all!

Cheers,

Chris

Eldoninoz · Post by **Eldoninoz** » 06 Apr 2013, 08:57

If you are replacing the pcv box anyway, just break off the tab. that will allow you to drill/grind access through the bracket to allow a 10 mm socket to gain access and remove the bolt and re-install the new box without removal of the bracket. Newer S80 models came with this already cast into the bracket. I used a drill to rough out the access and finished up with a grinding stone attached to my drill. It may take some time now but you don't have to deal with moving the accessories on the front of the motor and have access in the future.

MyS40T4 · Post by **MyS40T4** » 06 Apr 2013, 20:54

Yes, Eldoninoz, I'd come to the same conclusion myself - given that everything else is at least accessible, it seems to have been a design oversight!

I'll post some pictures of what I end up doing when I get there - so it can maybe form part of a how to...

Cheers,

Chris

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 06 Apr 2013, 22:41

Removing the fan gives you a little more room too. The coolant system doesnt need to be drained as yo aren't breaking the system open. The coolant flows around that Oring to prevent condensation in the system from freezing.

Eldoninoz · Post by **Eldoninoz** » 10 Apr 2013, 17:33

here is a pic of the clearance I made for the bolt through the accessories bracket. Just enough to get a 10 mm socket in and out.

It is just a little notch but took some time to clear enough material away.

neworion · Post by **neworion** » 30 Jun 2014, 21:48

Thanks for the idea to notch the bracket - I hadn't thought of that. I used a grinding wheel on an electric drill - it took about 1/2 hour. Probably would have been easier to pull out the alternator, but since the notch will help if there is a next time...