1999 V70r - Engine - To swap or repair

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 02 Jul 2014, 15:37

I just bought a 99 V70r with a "bad headgasket" for a great price. The previous owner took it to a mechanic, and they ran some tests and came back with a bad headgasket. Car was losing coolant, and the compression results from the shop were as follows: 145-157, and cyl #3 was 85. So the others were real close together, but cyl. 3 was bad, and the plug was fouled up. They also tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and noticed the exhaust was leaking into it.

The car itself has 185k on it. I was debating whether to do full headgasket swap, and take car of all the other things like PCV on the way in there, or if I should just get a salvage yard engine with lower miles and put that in. Was told car ran great before, and other than limping now, idles fine when I turned it on to verify before purchasing. I can get an engine with 135k on it for $700 from a local yard, compression is 170-190. or I can do the headgasket in this one and call it good. If I get the salvage engine, I would do timing and waterpump definitely. So that would add another $200. I have the timing kit and waterpump/headgasket for this engine already. They come in today.

So in everyone else's opinion, what do you think. Different engine, or fix this one. I have wrenched on many cars, so I am not too worried about the task, just trying to save some heartache if perhaps best option is to get another engine. New to Volvo, so I am seeking the wisdom of those that have been there, done that.

Also, I am not too fond of having to hold the cams in place due to the VVT. Can I just mark them and put them back in where they were marked at. I have a copy of VADIS in the mail, so I will see what they say in there, but again, wisdom of those that have been there done that is invaluable. Also, I have done many jobs in the past and did not have the head rebuilt, do you all think it is a must, or can I get away with just using it as is with some cleanup as long as it is not obviously trashed?

Thanks in advance.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Jul 2014, 16:39

If the engine is otherwise OK I would repair it. The '99 and '00 engines are pretty tough to find and you can't just drop in an earlier year 2.3 due to the CVVT.

So long as you don't remove the CVVT hub from the camshaft when you remove the head you don't necessarily need to use the cam locker tool. The front seal will thread off of the camshaft from the back, around the lobes, after it is removed. You will need to be very careful when re-installing the cam cover to get the front camshaft seal squared up since you won't be able to drive the seal in.

You will still need to set the CVVT pre-load when you put things back together but that is painless and it just involves putting the timing belt on twice. The cam locker tool does make it a no brainer though.

...Lee

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 02 Jul 2014, 17:36

That does sound like a bit of a pain, but not too bad a the same time. Cam Locker tool would be nice, but I just can't justify the cost as I don't plan on doing this too often. Is the info in VADIS to do it without that sort of tool, or would there be a forum post to reference instead. I don't have my copy of VADIS yet, so I can't check as of now.

It was also my understanding you could get pretty much any turbo version of the engine, 99-04 and just use the block and head, and just use your old manifolds and such and it would work just the same. The only things that made the R and R would be the turbo, injectors and ecu. The blocks and heads were the same. Perhaps I misread, or someone was mistaken in their post that I read. I appreciate the advice though. Thank you.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Jul 2014, 20:20

I don't know about the 01-04 compatibility with 99-00 cars. Mike (Precopster) frequents this board and he is much more in tune with the differences, hopefully he will chime in. There were some small differences even between '99 and '00 but they are fairly minor and things will bolt up fine between the manifolds. Once you get into the P2 cars I don't have a clue.

VADIS does have the procedure for setting up the CVVT, just look at the timing belt change procedure for the instructions. They are applicable if you don't remove the CVVT hub from the camshaft and just line up the timing mark (or offset it by one tooth), crank it 90 degrees past the mark clockwise and then back counterclockwise to the mark again. At that point remove the belt from the camshafts and line up the mark on the CVVT sprocket as the belt goes back on.

...Lee

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 03 Jul 2014, 08:32

Awesome. I should be getting my copy anyday, but I started tearing into the motor and will keep this info in mind. Oil was very milky, and there was some seepage on the bottom of the radiator. I feel like the reservoir cap failed, and caused the radiator to bust at the seems toward the bottom. Pretty much no coolant left in the engine, but the bottom half of the radiator and its fins were soaked, so that is a good sign of a bad rad in my experience. Just about to get ready to take the head off, so I will do some more research or wait for VADIS so I don't end up hurting anything. Thanks for the info so far.

Post by **precopster** » 03 Jul 2014, 11:11

Importantly drain the block ASAP to avoid rust in the cylinders. The cock is found as part of the metal coolant pipe circuit going to the turbo on the exhaust side near the water pump. 12mm if I remember correctly.

Check for raised cylinder liners. Around 2 thousands is acceptable and will be taken up by the gasket. Of course measure the block deck diagonally for warp.

Goodluck with the project. Hope you learn and have fun along the way.

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 03 Jul 2014, 13:56

precopster, that is sound advice. I will measure the head/block to make sure all is well. Hoping to avoid having the head redone, seems like an unnecessary cost if there is no damage. Don't really want to be in there again, but don't really want to drop $500 on a head for an engine with 185k on it.

I have also already drained everything except power steering. Wasn't much coolant left in there anyways. I am debating on when I am done with the headgasket to run seafoam through to clean out any crud that may have been left behind. Also might do the seafoam tranny treatment. Read tons, known of it for years, just never used it. I am hoping it won't cause more issues, but I want all the gunk out. Getting a new radiator too. Since the oil goes into the rad. I want to get all the crap out of there too. That and since I think it may be damaged, a new one is pretty much a requirement.

Post by **matthew1** » 03 Jul 2014, 15:03

Seafoam transmission treatment isn't a good idea. Incremental trans fluid drain and fill is a good idea.

IIRC from my math calculations, 4 drain + fills gives you 76% new fluid. Takes a case of quarts.

We see it every so often here at MVS -- a new owner has the transmission flushes and it fails soon after.