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98 V70 evap system code po442 "small leak"

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Auburn T5
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Re: 98 V70 evap system code po442 "small leak"

Post by Auburn T5 »

OP, not sure if your car has this hose located under the rear passenger seat but this hose threw a P0442 code at me last year. I replaced it with a silicone vac line hose.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

What he really needs is the inner diameter of these hoses.

Certainly bring lots of duct tape. Remember if you can get it to pass inspection....you are good
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Auburn T5
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Post by Auburn T5 »

That line was 5mm
2020 - Tesla Model 3 Performance
2020 - XC60 T5

1999 S70 T5 - Bilstein touring shocks/struts, B&G S2 springs, OBX full exhaust, other misc. stuff

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

Thanks for all the tips folks. My car has the canister in the front. You can check this with the illustrated parts list if you know your VIN number. That said, the IPL for the 98 V70 has A LOT of mistakes in it. When I got to the car the location in front of the drivers side wheel well was easily verified.


So here's my story. I left the
house around 12:30 and after stopping at home depot to buy a tool I forgot, wire nippers, I arrived around 1:45. It was raining and I had to work outside. Luckily the rain stopped. I replaced the gas cap in about 1 minute. Unfortunately the tethered gas cap the dealer sold me works but its a pain to use since you have to tuck in the tether carefully to ensure the door will close. My homemade tether worked much better. The new one seals though... The purge valve took another 5 minutes to replace and it was uneventful. All the rubber I could easily get to and inspect looked amazingly good so I decided to roll the dice and head off to the inspection station.

The car was driven over past weekend about 500 miles and the codes never reset so I reset them with the code reader and the service engine light went out but the car never got into the ready mode.

The directions my daughter gave me to the inspection station were not the greatest and I ended up at another station. The new inspection took one look at my car and said that car will probably pass if you dont have a check engine light. It did pass! I really dont understand it, but for today I don't care.

When I get the car back home in the driveway in a few weeks I'll replace all the rubber hoses so I won't have to deal with it again next year. Thanks again!

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Post by abscate »

What do aGeorgian and a NYer have in common?

We both smile when we stick it to the inspection man.....

:-)
Empty Nester
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98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

Not georgian by birth. I used to live up the Hudson in Troy. Oswego for awhile too. Moved here for a job, lower taxes and almost no no snow deeper than an inch.

The thing I can't understand is this: I cleared the po442 code and the check engine light went off and so did the maintenance required light. On my model year the maintenance required light can't be reset without a special tool or by paying the dealer to do it for you. Mine has been on for at least six years. I understand it gets triggered any time scheduled maintenance is due. Anyhow. right as I pulled into the station there were no indication lights on the dash but my code reader indicated that my PO442 (small leak) had become a PO455 (gross leak) .... still passed... I guess I'm lucky and I gained a year to fix the problem but I'll probably do it in two weeks when my daughter comes home after summer semester finals.

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Post by abscate »

Weekend in Albany and client in Troy. Small world.

These cars measure the evap by closing the rollover valve and putting vacuum on the tank, then seeing how long it takes to bleed back up. You can imagine there are a lot if ways this can get screwed up.
Empty Nester
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98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

true. still amazed that I passed. I had an electrical problem that drove me crazy for two years while trying to troubleshoot it. Eventually I gave up and replaced every part and corrected every problem that could have been contributing. I spent an afternoon on it and about $125. Problem solved! I'm going to do the same thing with the EVAP system since working on this car is certainly not convenient.

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

OK folks. Now that I passed inspection I'm going to overhaul my EVAP system so I don't have to deal with it again anytime soon. I have a lot of great posts to guide me and I have read them but I still have a couple of questions. 1) Nobody defined (unless I missed it) how long the hose from the purge valve to the charcoal canister is. My canister is in front of the wheel on the drivers side. If nobody knows the answer to this its not a big deal since I can take it out and measure it. I live right next to three auto parts stores. 2) how likely is it that the shut off valve and/or roll over valve will or has failed? Since its very inconvenient for me to work on this car I would rather replace parts that don't need it today instead of replacing all the rubber and having one of those mechanical parts fail in a year or so. I've already replaced the purge valve.

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Post by abscate »

Each of those has been to replaced once on my 1999 which is now at 160,000 miles. I guess if it's over 50000 miles/5 years I would replace them
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