1997 Volvo 850/na - Fitment and make of exhaust muffler

[xHeart]

The muffler replacement will take another week.
Now broken 18 years old original Volvo muffler that I took down is aluminized (shiny and softer) - it looks aluminum than steel. Whereas the Starla/Fonos/Walker part that was returned, it was made from material like exhaust pipe/adapter/coupling that a shop will use when welding it together. There were several weak points where rust will start after one merciless snow/salt season.

I had notice this material difference when using the two clips at the heater core install. Volvo's aluminum clip was easy to pull out with not a speck of rust or likes.

I am seriously considering Volvo's aluminized that comes in one piece. The inlet and outlet joints at muffler are protective coated. Pipes are one piece and shaped to fit through. No welding of weaker material for 25% more and guarantees fitment.

[xHeart]

I am now a step closer to purchasing a Volvo muffler.
While rear suspension is in repairs, there will be plenty of room for muffler to slide into space over the jack-stands, after which coil spring and shock will go in.

The connection at CAT remains unsolved.
It may be that adapter and clamp when used with high temperature RTV silicone gasket maker (exhaust leak proofing) my only choice.

Would the use of RTV silicon make it difficult to undo connection, and replace adapter in future?
Can welding joint be un-weld?

[j-dawg]

a welded joint becomes one piece of metal. the only way to separate the parts is to cut them.

if i understand correctly, the ball-and-socket joint has been cut off the downpipe, and you need a way to connect the two pieces?

[xHeart]

a welded joint becomes one piece of metal. the only way to separate the parts is to cut them.

if i understand correctly, the ball-and-socket joint has been cut off the downpipe, and you need a way to connect the two pieces?

yes. CAT to muffler the original way, if possible J!

[j-dawg]

you could go to a junkyard with an angle grinder and try to score the ball off a factory downpipe, or you could try buying a new one:
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 5/10002/-1
i believe these are pretty standard, but i'm not sure. the muffler shop will know better. if they are standard, you can buy a set and toss the ball, and weld the socket onto the downpipe - no messing around with welding rusty junkyard parts. (though i guess they'll have to weld to the rusty downpipe.)

i think the easiest way is probably to tell the muffler shop to hack the coupler off your new muffler and install whatever they prefer to both ends, but that depends on your being comfortable with chopping up the new muffler.

[xHeart]

It is a helpful reference J, thank you.

The ball-joint is OD 2" (male end on CAT butting with muff) making a socket connection at muff ---- not sure if OD should be a tad smaller, 1-7/8" may be ---- help?

Then it reduces to OD 1-5/8"...

The repair and install of new muff will require ball-joint OD 2" (if not 1-7/8") with reducer OD 1-3/4" (ID 1-5/8") for it to sleeve over the truncated CAT.

Volvo says they will get one muff by Friday.

[xHeart]

Progress... absence of coil spring and shock makes muffler slide over the trailing arm, and into its place with little effort.

Volvo exhaust - no fuss

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CAT ball-joint connection measurement

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heat shield restored and installed

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[xHeart]

Homemade ball-joint with 2 hours of pure labor.
It is snug fit. Do I use hi-temp silicon for sealing?

using adapter 2"OD/2"ID

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checking fitment

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[matthew1]

Wow! DIY'er of the Week™!

[xHeart]

Thank you Matt.
Hanger is giving some grief, photos later.
Ball-joint connector length is still a problem, sliced off 1/2".
It may need another 1/4" trimmed.