2000 v70-xc New "owner" and Forum newbie intro

txarmysgt · Post by **txarmysgt** » 30 Jul 2014, 23:32

Hello to all and good cheer! My name is Dan and I joined the forum to prepare myself to tackle some (very likely long over-due) maintenance on my sister's Volvo. It is a 2000 V70-xc se. I have found fantastic communities online for every vehicle I have owned or done any significant maintenance on over the last ten years and I am confident I have found a good resource for this one too. My goal is not to perform a "frame-off restoration" so much as it is to give it a thorough inspection and establish a plan-of-attack to make it mechanically sound.

My sister is not too keen on the operation of simple hand tools such as screwdrivers and hammers, let-alone ratchets and torque wrenches. As such, I am approaching this mission as if I were a new owner of a high mileage vehicle with no knowledge of it's maintenance history. Everything will be suspect until proven otherwise, to include timing belt replacement, seals, fluids - the whole enchilada. She has reported a number of issues including a failing strut tower mount, coolant leaking issues and bad O2 sensor(s) and I am betting the more I fix, the more I'll find.

I have yet to open the hood at this point. Just in a research/tech data mining phase and wanted to take a moment to introduce myself. I am a lurker most often on forums but will contribute when I have something fresh to offer. I will use the search function to death before asking anything and when I do I will be as concise as I know how.

I have never turned a wrench on a Volvo, and I am not a professional auto mechanic by trade. I am an Army veteran - served 15 years in a mechanical maintenance occupational specialty, so I do have a vast amount of experience working on over-engineered/complex equipment and a healthy respect for technical service manuals. I have also performed a great deal of work on vehicles within my circle and will always do all my own work on a vehicle I own.

Having said all of that, if there is anything you folks feel compelled to offer on the onset - "If I had to do it again, I would have done it this way" I am all ears and a skull-full-of-mush over here. Thanks in advance for what I know will be very helpful information going forward!

Post by **abscate** » 31 Jul 2014, 03:24

Welcome Dan, and thanks for your service.

We pride ourselves when someone gets and keeps the Volvo "bug" here. I've found the talent here to be amazing, and the folks here share it without attitude found in some other places.

Sisters 2000 is a solid car and knowing about the timing belt is good.

Starting fresh, how many miles are on it?
Are there any engine trouble codes showing? (Check engine light or ETS light on?)

txarmysgt · Post by **txarmysgt** » 31 Jul 2014, 12:11

I have to speak to her again to be certain, but she did say the "check engine" light was on and eluded to a problem with the heated 02 sensors being identified as the issue by her mechanic. Also, the ABS light - said her ex-husband had replaced the "ABS Unit" and it did not turn off the light. Not sure if it's the control module she is referring to or a hydraulic unit of sorts.

It has 120,000 and change and when I asked her about the timing belt she said "not since she's owned it" and she financed it with around 50k miles on it some time ago. I think it's fair to assume it was not replaced within the first 50K so it will be a priority on my list. In the last year I have done complete timing kits with cam/crank seals on both my 1996 Subaru Impreza and 1996 Ford Ranger so I'm not afraid to dive into the deep end of the pool so to speak. I would be inclined to replace the belts, cam/crank seals, idlers, tensioner, water pump and possibly the oil pump if it's not cost prohibitive.

I'll share more details in the coming days when I get my eyes on it. Thanks for the support!

Post by **abscate** » 31 Jul 2014, 15:50

Just the belt, idler, tensioner on the 2000 model. Water pump possible, but Volvo says 200k miles for that. I would leave seals and oil pump alone.

The 2000 has the water temperature warmed PCV system that doesn't plug like the pre 1999 models - after you do the glove test, you will know if you have crankcase pressure.

Post by **rspi** » 31 Jul 2014, 16:29

txarmysgt · Post by **txarmysgt** » 01 Aug 2014, 09:35

I had actually contemplated the possibility of the ABS control module having cold-soldered joints so this video is right up my alley! I have been re-flow and re-ball soldering countless laptop motherboards and PC graphics cards for quite some time now. Also a few PCBs for digital dash displays. Mass produced PCB's seemed to have gone through some growing pains in the 2000's where manufacturers used a poor combination of solder paste and dwell time resulting in joints that don't hold up under thermal stress. The joints expand and contract and can create absolute nightmare intermittent faults. Another example is video game consoles. People play on it for 72 hours straight and the solder balls under the graphics chip get so hot they begin to melt, but not hot enough to flow nicely on the pads so when the console finally cools down, the solder joints harden and become oxidized or even crack. I'll take pictures when I tackle the module and share them here. Thanks for setting me on the right path here you guys I am glad I found your corner of the web for sure!

ems_kws · Post by **ems_kws** » 23 Jan 2018, 19:12

Both o2 sensors will set you back about $250 from IPDUSA.com. I need some as well after a leaking head gasket. If there is no obvious coolant leak but coolant is being used then start looking up threads on tracking down a head gasket leak. Not a horrible job but it is time consuming. If it were my sister with the things you listed I would go from 1-5.

1. Find coolant leak issue. (Am I dealing with a hose, banjo bolt, head gasket? The severity of the issue tells you a lot.)
2. Timing belt and related parts
3. ABS/Brakes
4. O2 sensors after coolant leak is fixed.
5. Fix or replace struts.
While you are in there vacuum hoses, test PVC, plugs, accessory belt, etc

Post by **jtp** » 23 Jan 2018, 19:27

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service!

I would only add that the gen 1 AWD system (98-00) on your car and mine is finicky. Maintaining proper tire pressures and tires of the same tread depth is absolutely critical to maintain the life of the propeller shaft. Many of these cars are actually run as FWD vehicles nowadays as a result.

This is my third P80 Volvo. They’re just great cars that maintain enough of a dedicated following via this and other forums and great parts suppliers to make them very enjoyable for a really long time.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jan 2018, 04:51

Old thread alert! Dan seems to have been trouble free since 2014!