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1980 245DL How do I adjust the Air-Con belt?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
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Faithraven
Posts: 4
Joined: 4 August 2014
Year and Model: 245 DL wagon 1980
Location: Hoquiam Washington

1980 245DL How do I adjust the Air-Con belt?

Post by Faithraven »

This wagon was a gift.

I can't seem to find which bolts I need to loosen on my air conditioner to tighten the belts, can anyone help? Tried Volvo tips, just says to tighten them???... Doesn't say how. 1980 245 DL wagon.

Thanks a bunch ahead of time

Willis

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93Regina
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Year and Model: 93:240/940
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Post by 93Regina »

Faithraven wrote:1980 245 DL wagon
a/c compressor belt removal

I have no idea what you have...pics do assist.

1choice
Posts: 17
Joined: 2 August 2014
Year and Model: 244 GL 1985
Location: St Petersburg

Post by 1choice »

There's a 12MM or 13MM retaining bolt, that you need to loosen, it's flush with the pulley and below the compressor.

Then if you follow from where that bolt is you'll see there's a very long 10MM bolt for your adjustment.

All you gotta do is see where all this is at, get a good $1 LED flashlight and just look under the compressor, it's all right there.

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

On the 240's through 84 (85 for the Turbo 240) the belt is tightened by taking a crank pulley shim out from between pulley halves and putting it on the front of the pulley.
There are 6 10mm head fasteners. 2 are nuts and 4 are bolts. The shims (spacers) being between pulley halves let the belt ride down into pulley deeper which is looser belt. When you take move the spacer outside the pulley halves a re closer and the belt rides further out and will be tighter.

When Volvo started using the Sanden/Zexel rotary compressors they changed to pivoted compressor mount with tensioning bolt and the slotted adjuster brackets.

Silver Brick
Posts: 5
Joined: 28 June 2009
Year and Model: DL Wagon, 1984
Location: U.S.A.

Post by Silver Brick »

Jimmy57 is correct. Volvo used the VW type of adjustment with thin shims between the pulley halves of the crankshaft pulley to make adjustments to the AC belt. I haven't had to make the adjustment myself in quite a while, so I'm kind of rusty on the particulars. If you'll go to kjet.org, look in Documents, then Greenbooks, 200 series, there will be a listing of downloadable Volvo Green Manuals. The one you want is Body, AC. On about page 24, it will show you how the pulley is configured. I wish I could help you more.

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

The process is not hard but the crank needs to be turned a few times (24 mm or 15/16 I think, it has been a decade or more since I had a b23/b21 to tighten a/c belt on) while the bolts a re tightened once the shim(s) are moved. The small bolts and nuts should be tightened until they begin to get snug and then turn crank 1/2 turn, tighten, 1/2 turn, tighten. etc. You are walking the belt out the pulley faces and if you don't turn crank the belt gets pinched and bent pulley and broken bolts can result if not done in increments with crank turning.

Faithraven
Posts: 4
Joined: 4 August 2014
Year and Model: 245 DL wagon 1980
Location: Hoquiam Washington

Post by Faithraven »

To all of you who have offered the info I needed, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!... I think I saw that somewhere and was not sure without re-assurance. Reminds me of some older days that I worked on some 50's and 60's cars. Anyone remember the old generators that would take off like a bat of hell if you didn't discharge them first? LOL

Faithraven
Posts: 4
Joined: 4 August 2014
Year and Model: 245 DL wagon 1980
Location: Hoquiam Washington

Post by Faithraven »

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!...
jimmy57 wrote:The process is not hard but the crank needs to be turned a few times (24 mm or 15/16 I think, it has been a decade or more since I had a b23/b21 to tighten a/c belt on) while the bolts a re tightened once the shim(s) are moved. The small bolts and nuts should be tightened until they begin to get snug and then turn crank 1/2 turn, tighten, 1/2 turn, tighten. etc. You are walking the belt out the pulley faces and if you don't turn crank the belt gets pinched and bent pulley and broken bolts can result if not done in increments with crank turning.

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