98 S70 Squeaking Noise from Timing Belt when hot

[oragex]

Have a helper to keep the belt in place (keep the tension) and prevent the cam gears from moving

[cn90]

You can temporarily "zip tie" the TB only enough to keep the tension properly for the job.
But you may want to spin the idle bearing too, never know something wrong with idler.

[mecheng]

Ok I'll try that thanks. It's funny on Hondas everyone switches to mechanical tensioner so because they are more reliable.

I'm curious, why did the guy in the fcp video remove the crank pulley. I didn't think you needed to?

[cn90]

The little knob on the oil pump makes it difficult to slide the TB in, therefore, some mechanics simply remove the crank pulley. I personally don't, I simple slide the TB in, you simply have to find the correct angle to slide it in.

On the issue of engineering of hydraulic vs mechanical tensioner, nothing is perfect. I can outline for you what I have seen from Aisin as the mfg of these hydraulic tensioners:

- 1998 S70 at 150K, the Aisin HT was still good but I replaced it for the peace of mind.

- 2005 Toyota Sienna, the Aisin HT was still good at 180K.

- 2007 Honda Odyssey, the Aisin HT starts leaking at 50K, just go to youtube to listen to noisy HT on the Honda Odyssey, it sounds like valve lifter noise!

The mechanical tensioner has its own problem: when space is limited in the timing belt compartment, engineers squeeze the spring and the pulley into one component ---> mechanical tensioner. It works fine but the weak spot in these INA pulleys is the bearing, which seems to go out at 100K-120K. The spring component seems OK.
This is interesting because the HT has the pulley made by INA as well, and this pulley bearing can go to 150K w/o issues.

[mecheng]

Does anybody know what the difference is between a Volvo Timing Belt Tensioner or Idler and an INA version.

INA is OEM but if you look at sites like FCP, the Volvo part is much more expensive.
Same with a Contitech Belt and the Volvo belt which should be Contitech.

I understand there is a markup, but it is usally double the price! My local supplier can get INA, and Contitech but he can not get a Aisin water pump, only Hepu.

[cn90]

Double mark-up is normal. Even 2.5 times or 3x.

Example, 2005 Toyota Sienna AC belt by Mitsuboshi is $8 at autohausaz.
The same belt is $28 at Toyota dealer.
Same exact belt with Mitsuboshi + Toyota name on it.

The only difference is the Toyota logo on the belt. You pay for that logo.

So car makers typically jack up 2x to 3x on the parts made by someone else.

[mecheng]

Oh to add, all the bearings for the components are fine. Smooth and noise free.

My only guess is the spring mechanism for the tensioner may be making noise, but I can't replicate it by hand. I'm going to replace the tensioner with an INA one

[mecheng]

Double mark-up is normal. Even 2.5 times or 3x.

Example, 2005 Toyota Sienna AC belt by Mitsuboshi is $8 at autohausaz.
The same belt is $28 at Toyota dealer.
Same exact belt with Mitsuboshi + Toyota name on it.

The only difference is the Toyota logo on the belt. You pay for that logo.

So car makers typically jack up 2x to 3x on the parts made by someone else.

Ahh I remember Mitsuboshi, I had them on my Hondas. They were one durable belt, I never replaced it.

The Volvo dealer has some weird pricing for timing belt parts.
Kit with Belt, idler, mech tensioner: $201

Belt $68, mech tensioner $136, $109, idler. $313 if you buy parts seperately!

They probably get the kit from Contitech or INA.

The water pump is a wopping $236! from the dealer but I've read the Aisin is the best pump

[cn90]

I don't know about Canadian Toronto price, but the Volvo Blue Box TB Kit is $122 in the US.
See the link I posted previously.

[precopster]

You can get an Aisin water pump for $65 from Amazon (without 7 bolts) The code is WPV-800. FCPs price is $68 with 7 bolts...