1998 V70 hesitation & missing on takeoff

[TheLoneAviator]

Hi, I couldn't find the answer to my specific problem so I thought I'd describe it.
When the car is cold, no temp registering, I start the car, put in D and go, everything is fine. As soon as the car warms up to operating temp, from a stop, press the gas to go it begins missing and hesitates then when about 30 mph is hit it jerks into the next gear and acts like it hit the Nitrous. Drives fine going down the highway.

[cn90]

Check for any OBD codes.

? ECT
? Fuel Filter up to date
? Spark Plugs up to date
? Vacuum Leak
? CPS

You need to be systematic in your approach. It can be frustrating...

[TheLoneAviator]

The only code I get is P0410, secondary Air, ( do I need to do the Air Delete Mod?)
I would think it was the Coil/Igm module pack?

[erikv11]

Yep, SAS delete will likely cure the P0410 (http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... with-pics/). It is often overlooked but the P0410 can be caused by failure of several things: SAS valve, air pump, SAS fan relay, SAS solenoid. The problem is usually the SAS valve and the air pump, but those last two must be working to keep the P0410 off after you do SAS delete. So go ahead and do the delete with the diode, it is super cheap to try, but if you do it right and the P0410 comes back, then check out the solenoid and the relay.

Are you saying your 98 has individual coil packs? That would be unusual.

Also, is the car turbo or non-turbo?

As far as ECT, does the temp needle climb to warm normally?

[TheLoneAviator]

Single coil on left fender, original. Previous owner changed the plugs, wires cap & rotor, Thought I might as well change the coil.
Turbo is new from a year or two ago,have receipt.
Temp needle:
When the car is cold it seems to run/getUpAndGo just fine, the needle gets up to mid point Extremely Fast from what Im used to,like by the end of the block, Bam it's mid range. Fastest warm up I've ever seen. Is that normal? Stays mid range as it should after that. After that, sputtering on takeoff from stop until about 25 mph then the turbo kicks in and runs fine.
I'll do the Diode thing tomorrow and see if that helps. DO I need to block off any vac lines after? I guess I could go re-read the how-to for that..
thanks!

[erikv11]

Yep, check the DIY for the diode, you will want to cap off the vac tree and disconnect a line or two. Sounds like you are good to go there.

Temp needle sounds perfect for a Texas climate.

The brand matters a lot on the plugs-wires-cap-rotor, especially for you turbo car. Cap and rotor should be Bosch, wires should be Bougicord or Kingsborne, there are a few options on plugs. It may sound like hogwash but there are very few others that will work for the ignition parts.

Coil failure is very rare, I would check out the other ignition parts first given the symptoms.

[TheLoneAviator]

Thanks erik, I'll check those. I did a Fuel Filter change. Found the one in it to be installed backwards and on pouring it out found charcoal colored gas, must'a needed changing. Unbelievable, the Heater Core was a-heckova lot simpler and easier to change. Can't believe they put it there!
The Filter change cured 95% of the hesitation/sputtering on take off from a stop. Still has a little miss every-now-n-then. I bet the plugs and wire check may cure that.
+++++++++++++++
On another (Grrrrrrrrr) Note:
While under the car to pull out the Fuel Filter, Lo-and-behold to my eyes what did I NOT-see? ( that was not where it was supposed to be,) or in fact was not even THERE AT ALL!
The rear Drive shaft is missing. No doubt removed to cure the usual drive shaft problem that this car doesn't have, because it's not there .
Anybody got a drive shaft out behind your barn your not using?

[erikv11]

So your car is an AWD? You may want to note that in the Model-and-Year part of your information, because the AWDs have several differences for suspension, fuel supply etc, and all of them are turbos. I was just assuming it was a regular V70, non-turbo.

Nice find on the fuel filter, by the way.

[regent]

There are the so called 'Emission Code differences' in Fuel System Arrangement for the same MY - just to add to the confusion. The Emission Code can usually be deciphered from the VIN or found on the car nameplate.

[Miltown]

I have a'98 V70 Driveshaft if you would like. Rebuilt from Colorado drifshaft used for a year then I removed it. If you are interested $100 plus shipping which I remember from CD was like $75 but I would have to check and let you know.

Paul