Volvo 850 S2 Transmission Solenoid Replacement w/Pics

[polskamafia mjl]

Thanks, let me know what you find.

[polskamafia mjl]

I found this solenoid online. It's listed as a shift solenoid for AW50-42.

I found that solenoid at http://www.atkits.com/productslist/73/180 .

Comparing it to this picture:

S1 & S2 Solenoids.jpg (63.77 KiB) Viewed 2799 times

It looks the same as the S1 solenoid. Any thoughts?

[polskamafia mjl]

And looks like Trans Parts Direct carries the right one. I emailed them and am waiting on a response to see if they confirm my suspicion that this is the correct replacement for the S1 solenoid:

http://transpartsdirect.com/aw50-4042le ... 11997.html

It is part number 5040310002N.

[daversm]

on my volvo 94 850 s1 and s2 are both with the green plug and seem to be the same

In picture 2 the solenoid on the left is the new one from Trans Parts Direct, the right one is the old one.

I put the old o-ring on the new solenoid, the o-ring that came with the new solenoid didn't fit nearly as snug as the old o-ring.

I did this job by going in from the top.

In the first pictures s2 is removed so the one in the pictures is s1, which I am not changing. Note, in my 94 850 both s1 and s2 have green plugs.

[polskamafia mjl]

I sent you a PM daversm but in case you look here first I'll sum up what I said there.

I actually haven't dug into my transmission yet, the farthest I've gotten is to order the solenoids and then start questioning whether I got the right ones.

I got an answer back from Trans Parts Direct. That, combined with what daversm just posted, I think goes a long way to clear up the S1/S2 situation. From Trans Parts Direct:

"Best way to match up these shift solenoids is by color. The early ones 89-up were usually both green connectors and use the same solenoid which is our 6843783. There are some later 95/96 up that use either a gray or a brown connector for the #2 . That would be our 5040310002N and it could be either a gray or brown connector, you either need 2 green or 1 green and a gray/brown."

Daversm, your 94 confirms this since you have an early model 850 where S1 and S2 are the same. So the question is which category my 95 falls into. I think I may order the 5040310002N just to have on hand. Which ever solenoid I don't need I'll send back. Thanks a lot for that information, daversm!

[daversm]

Yup got the PM, thanks for the quick reply.

I have 2 more questions:

I accidentally broke a little bit of the plastic plug of the solenoid. (Where the wire actually plugs into the solenoid). Is it safe to just super glue the broken bit back on. Is there a specify glue I should use. Or would I have to order another one. I'm just scared that the glue will go bad being exposed to oil and heat and it will break off again. But I really don't want to buy another solenoid.

Also I think I am going to go for not using a chemical gasket, rather make mine out of a gasket sheet. What kind of material should I use for that. Or does anyone know if someone sells a pre made gasket for the valve body ( the black pan that comes off).

Thanks,

Daver

[polskamafia mjl]

Does the connector still click into place even with the missing plastic? If so then I think you'll be ok leaving it alone.

As to the gasket I'm not sure. I was going to use RTV on mine but I am curious to hear about the gasket sheet.

[JimBee]

Back in the day, I made many gaskets from gasket paper.

You can either trace the part's outline with a fine point pen and cut it out with a scissors, or rough-cut a piece and with a small hammer "cut" the gasket to the exact shape by hammering on the paper around the edges of the mating surface. The sharp edge of the milled surface will give your gasket a clean edge.

You can hold it in place while doing the majority of the edge-cutting by hammering out a couple of bolt holes first and threading bolts loosely into them through the paper. Then finish hammering around the edges. Gently does the trick.

Here are some options for gasket paper:
https://www.google.com/search?q=gasket+ ... =firefox-a

[daversm]

No unfortunately the connecter doesn't not click, it's in there pretty lose. And I am worried if I glue the bit back on, the heat and oil might over time weaken the glue and it will fall off again and damage something else.

Well I was reading on a different writeup for this same job, and he had done the job from the top, from under the battery tray. Not dropping the sub frame. This is what I did. only problem with this is that, taking the pan of is a big pain, you really have to wiggle it to get it off ( if doing the job from the top). I would use RTV but when putting the cover pan back on I know it will touch the valve body and just make a mess. So for me the better solution is making a gasket from a gasket sheet. The other write up I am referring to used a "oil joining gasket" sheet. Then used the cover pan as a template to cut. Apparently he had no problems doing this and has had no leaks. I just want to make sure I get the correct stuff to make the gasket out off.

Will post pictures here when I do this.


For now I'm debating if I should glue the bit back on or just order a new solenoid.

[daversm]

Thanks for the info JimBee.

Do you remember what kind of paper you used for the job. The most commonly found I think is cork or rubber paper. I think I will just head over to auto zone and ask for gasket paper, see what they have.