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1990 Volvo 240 - Motor shakes some at idle.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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Raulizle
Posts: 3
Joined: 5 August 2014
Year and Model: 1990 240DL Wagon
Location: USA

1990 Volvo 240 - Motor shakes some at idle.

Post by Raulizle »

Hello MVSers,

I am the owner of a 1990 Volvo 240 wagon with a standard transmission (M47). I became the owner of this vehicle in 2010 and drove it for about a year. I fell in love with the wagon and planned to keep it as long as possible; however, the car stopped working for me and I was not able to repair it. I have very limited knowledge when it comes to car repair. About a month ago I decided to try to repair the wagon. I got it to start and ran very well (one week), with a 1-4-4 trouble code, until I took it to a shop and got its rear main seal replaced. The motor started shaking at idle, more than what I would like.



looks a little different in person and was not running like that before.

I would greatly appreciate any input on how to get my Volvo running like a champ!

Here is a list of everything that I have done before taking it to the shop for rear main seal.

-Extended Flame Trap Hose
-Replace Oil Separator Box
-Replace Timing Belt (with IPD DVD)
-Replace Water Pump
-Replace Camshaft Cover Gasket
-Clean Throttle
-Clean Air Idle Valve
-Clean EGR Valve
-Replace Fuel Pump Relay
-Replaced Flame Trap Kit
-Replace Spark Plug Wires
-Replace Spark Plugs
-Replace Vacuum Lines
-Replace O2 Sensor
-Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Replaced Fuel Filter
-Replaced Fuel Pump (next to Fuel Filter)
-Replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor

After receiving the wagon back I pulled an ECU form a car at the Pick-A-Part with the 951 ending. Mine has a 556 ending on it, I am assuming the previous owner must have taken that one out of an 89' model.
When I connect the 951 ECU the car seems to be idling with higher RPMs, but I do not have a tachometer in my car, so I can't see by how much. I also disconnected the MAF sensor while the car was on and it seemed to drop the RPMs with it disconnected while still. When I have the 556 ECU connected the RPM's seem to be fine at Idle. With both ECUs motor still shakes as if there was a wrong mixture between air and fuel. When I switched back to the 556 the car seemed to have a little trouble starting at first.

After that I put my old MAF sensor in and no change. Vacuum hoses seem to all be connected. I do not have any holes in my accordion hose. Motor mounts are good. Code 1-4-4 is still on.

Thank you very much.

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

Post by lummert »

Diagnostic code 1-4-4 for 1990-1993 240

EZK - Load signal from ECU missing.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

Raulizle
Posts: 3
Joined: 5 August 2014
Year and Model: 1990 240DL Wagon
Location: USA

Post by Raulizle »

How would I go about checking the load signal? Where does the signal originate from?

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Raulizle wrote:951 ending. Mine has a 556 ending on it

Code 1-4-4 is still on.
0 280 000-556 - 1989-1990 (EGR)

0 280 000-951 - Good substitute for non-turbo, non-EGR LH2.4 ECU

Table 2: EZK 116 and Regina Rex Ignition Fault Codes - No load signal from fuel injection system - Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module

It would appear using 951 on an EGR based vehicle is out of specification

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Raulizle wrote:How would I go about checking the load signal?
Check fuse terminals for fuel pump; make sure they are clean, and fuse fits good.

I don't recall, does engine run OK above idle? If not, it maybe time to replace CPS (crank position sensor) or power stage on the left inner fender.

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93Regina
Posts: 2813
Joined: 18 January 2014
Year and Model: 93:240/940
Location: Sunflower State
Been thanked: 65 times

Post by 93Regina »

Brake Booster - Its diaphragm may be ruptured, so remove hose from engine side, and cap port. If no change in symptoms, then hook it back up. Then try a new CPS...on ebay, there were some for like $10.00 shipped.

Raulizle
Posts: 3
Joined: 5 August 2014
Year and Model: 1990 240DL Wagon
Location: USA

Post by Raulizle »

Awesome Responses 93REGINA I will most definitely check those out on the wagon and post the results.

I appreciate all of your help!

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