You measure the voltage across pin 1 & 3 on the Sacer side and compare it to the voltage across pins 4 & 2 on the non- Sacer side with the original sensor reconnected and the black lead hanging loose.
Rotating the magnet is the correct way to adjust. You will change the voltage by doing so from around 1.18V to around 1.5 volts so you can match it with the non- Sacer side.
Ideally a voltage of around 1.35V is fine.
I've been a repairer for almost 2 years and I can tell you that you should have had P0121 or P0120 as at least one of the codes before fitting a Sacer sensor, otherwise you're wasting your money and time.
2001 volvo etm with new Sacer tps repalcement
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precopster
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Re: 2001 volvo etm with new Sacer tps repalcement
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
appreciate the help!,I unfortunately have not had the s80 brought in to read the codes.But I have had all of the symptoms of a failing etm sensor,and after opening up the etm I had discovered that the tape that the fingers slide on had been overly worn right out which has me under the impression that the sacer contact-less sensor should fix this problem.I'm going to test the voltages in the morning and do alot of research on a good method of rotating the magnet.I'm guessing it involves grinding the end of the shaft where the magnet is placed so that it can be turned,and placing some sort of glue like material to keep it in the appropriate position has been found.I say this because the female part of the magnet and the end of the shaft has the shape of a (D)
Eric.
Eric.
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precopster
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No grinding is necessary. The magnet moves over the D shaped end for around 5 degrees which will alter the voltages as stated.
To raise voltage turn it full clockwise. The trickiest part is locking it in place for a test. I often spend 30 minutes JUST on voltage calibration. I use a quick release clamp from end to end to test each time I adjust. Remember the Sacer leads will bend inwards each time you adjust as they are soft metal.
After I'm confident I've reached the target voltage I then solder it back together.
To raise voltage turn it full clockwise. The trickiest part is locking it in place for a test. I often spend 30 minutes JUST on voltage calibration. I use a quick release clamp from end to end to test each time I adjust. Remember the Sacer leads will bend inwards each time you adjust as they are soft metal.
After I'm confident I've reached the target voltage I then solder it back together.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Chapelgirl
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 28 January 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S70 2.4l N/A
- Location: Virginia
In the middle of a saser installation and trying to set voltage. Had 1.4 volts before disassembly. After numerous attempts can only get voltage between pins 1 and 3 down to 1.47 volts. Close enough or no? The magnet is cranked all the way clockwise. Any help would be much appreciated.
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precopster
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1.47V is fine. Anything from 1.25V to 1.55V will run.
It will run with no problems given that the circuit board has no issues.
It will run with no problems given that the circuit board has no issues.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Chapelgirl
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 28 January 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S70 2.4l N/A
- Location: Virginia
I've got a bad feeling about this. I got the #2 pin apart on the opposite side and did a very quick solder job. Before I soldered the magnet side pins I wanted to check one more time so I plugged it back in to the car and now the tem is not doing the self test. Voltage remains the same on the one and three pins. There is no way I fried it as quickly as I soldered. I went back and made sure the three pins on the magnet side were making good contact. All of this started because of a simple P0121 code and limp mode on a 2001 V70 turbo. Am I done? Everything was good including the self test until I soldered the one joint.
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precopster
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The Sacer sensor pins bend easily. If they are not soldered they don't contact unless you manually retension them again .
Supply voltage. Use alligator clips to supply +12V to the thick green wire and chassis to the thick brown wire
Supply voltage. Use alligator clips to supply +12V to the thick green wire and chassis to the thick brown wire
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Chapelgirl
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 28 January 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S70 2.4l N/A
- Location: Virginia
Yeah I was aware of that and would bend them a bit before putting the end back on each time. So I figured what the heck I'll go ahead and solder them then there is no question and it's all or nothing at this point. Unfortunately I got the same result. Still showing the same voltage on 1 and 3 but after hooking it back up and turning the key no self test occurs.
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Chapelgirl
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 28 January 2011
- Year and Model: 2000 S70 2.4l N/A
- Location: Virginia
Well, after sitting a couple of days while I looked into alternatives (because ETM quit responding to voltage) I went out and tried putting power to the ETM again and it worked! I was a little leary of it but decided to go for it. I installed it on the car and wrapped up everthing and she purred like a kitten. Still a bit apprehensive I drove it a couple of days staying fairly close to home and operation was great. Went out this morning to go work and, bam, back to limp mode and P0121 again. I'm guessing this thing must have a problem with the circuit board to be intermittent like this. Anyone experience that? Can't really affored the Xemodex at the moment so looking on line for other "rebuilt" ETM's. 2001 V70 Turbo 172K miles.
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