97 855R Oil change question..

[koffinb]

okay, 100% off topic....that car looks great.
what wheels and size are those, and are the rear mud flaps a volvo factory item?

As much as I am not a red car person, I am just totally digging the look.

Thanks! These are the 17" Silver Volan wheels from Volvo. The rear mudflaps are from volvo, yes. I don't like red cars at all either, but this one is a major exception.

[Ben850]

okay, 100% off topic....that car looks great.
what wheels and size are those, and are the rear mud flaps a volvo factory item?

As much as I am not a red car person, I am just totally digging the look.

Thanks! These are the 17" Silver Volan wheels from Volvo. The rear mudflaps are from volvo, yes. I don't like red cars at all either, but this one is a major exception.

Suggest an R model Volvo any day. They all have a little something to set them apart.
Myself, reviving a T-5R because it has that something.
The wheels usually do it, along with a subdued exterior treatment and some nice interior accents.

Mine is a revival project with the wheels everyone wants. They are not called "Pegasus" and they were made without the "R" logo on the spoke because they had not figured the name for the special edition vehicle as of yet. Original T-5R.

He has his own accord. They were the original "Titan" 17" wheel I believe.

He really does like.

Digression.
I have been using Valvoline High mileage 10w30 in both of the current drivers.
I am confident in the seals, and current crankcase pressure to go to a synthetic blend, or high mileage synthetic for the Turbo Wagon.
The '93 was abused and still has a fairly steady rear main leak so I stay with "Dino" for now.
I have a seal, OEM Volvo, just wish I had the time.

[abscate]

Went with the 10w-30 high mileage..5qt jug from walmart. Couldn't find an extra quart of the 10w-30 so I just grabbed a 10w 40 to fulfill the 6 quart requirement for the engine.

Can anyone tell me what/where the leak in that last picture is from?

It looks like a bit of seepage from the distributor or cam end at the back of the engine IMHO. Much easier seals to deal with than the front of course.

+1000 on that looker from me, too!

[rspi]

I don't see a leak, however, if it is stuff on top of the can cover, it is likely coming from the oil cap.

[Ben850]

Can anyone tell me what/where the leak in that last picture is from?

Mine was a Pug.

[mecheng]

I've had better luck with Good quality Dino oil. 10w30, Quaker state, burns absolutely no oil, level never moves. With synthetic I think these cars were designed well before it became popular, it seems to move past some of the seals. If you competitively race in hot weather synthetic is a must, otherwise Dino oil is fine and might cure a loss of oil problem. Castrol gtx, and Penzoil are two other good oils.

5000 miles should be a minimum, less than that is a waste of resources. More is okay

[instarx]

Remember if your car is using some oil you're constantly putting new oil in it so your change interval can safely increase from that 5,000. I typically go 7,500. I use Mobil 1 0W40 and 10W40 High Mileage Engine and Fuel Saving oil and can't really tell any difference in the use rate between the two. At 170,000 miles I currently have the High Mileage Engine variant in it for no reason other than I figured it couldn't do the seals any harm. Car currently uses about a quart every 2-3,000 miles.