2002 v70xc no gears?

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 30 Oct 2014, 18:17

Alright I have rebuilt my valve body with the sonnax zip kit and replaced the linear solenoids with Rostras, and I did the drain and fills. Once this car warms up it just doesn't drive right, in fact it ends up not driving at all. Here is the sequence of events that happened today.

1: Installed rebuilt(by me with sonnax zip kit) valve body and buttoned up car. Cold it shifted between R and D I could feel positive engagement, maybe a little lag when going from N to D.

2: Moved the car to get close enough to my computer to hookup to vida, I did this in reverse, tranny was only halfway to warmup, I was hoping that this was a good sign. Cleared codes and reset fluid and adaptation.

3: After I let the car warm up to operating temp I took off to do adapt. It wouldn't go unless i gave it 2000 or so rpms then it would grab and take off. But obviously somethings not right. So i try to drive and it needs way to many rpms to maintain any speed, I check fluid levels in tranny it needed some so I added, no change. So at this point I have reverse, and it seems like its driving correctly in R. So again I try to take off in D and nothing really, just alot of rpms and little to no movement. I ended the night with having to be towed home, and having no reverse or drive.

So what am I missing? Please help! I'm close to just parting this thing out to recoup some of my losses. I really thought with all the knowledge out there I could tackle this job myself, now I'm not so sure.

Manual swap time maybe? Any tips or things to look for would be appreciated. Thanks!

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 30 Oct 2014, 19:18

I also forgot to mention that the car isnt throwing codes! Its clearly not operating correctly but if it doesn't throw codes how can i diagnose the problem?

Post by **precopster** » 31 Oct 2014, 01:53

Keep your old solenoids and pull out the ones you fitted for an exact profile and port match. There were so many different solenoid versions released by Volvo (and they all look very similar)

Did you adjust line pressure by means of adjusting the hex screws at the end of each solenoid or just leave them at factory settings?

The rule of thumb is 4 turns. Search for a guy named Hirram Gutierrez on Internet and you Tube and view his videos.

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 31 Oct 2014, 05:27

I left the solenoids at factory settings. I'll try to find some time to watch hiram, I have seen the first few mintues of one of his videos. It seemed so many people did no adjustments after the install this is the step i forgot! Hopefully i'll be on the right track.

Post by **precopster** » 31 Oct 2014, 13:10

True many people get away with no adjustment but it looks like you're not one of them. In one of Hirram's videos he faces this dilemma.

Line pressure is measurable externally from ports on the side cover with 12mm heads. There are afew posts about how to drill a valve body cover out so you can adjust the hex screws while engine is running. You'll need a pressure tester with correct fittings.

The 00, 01 & 02 SLT, SLS & SLU solenoids all differ. Did you eyeball each one with the old one next to it?

Let me know (by PM) if you want a service guide for the transmission.

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 31 Oct 2014, 14:51

Thanks for the starting point mike, I won't be able to get back into the tranny till monday, but in the mean time I plan to find a pressure guage and enough fluid to flush the tranny AGAIN.... as i feel the fluid burnt from turning so many rpms trying to get somewhere. I also will be drilling the cover out. Is there a visual difference perhaps in the solenoid adjustments? Like if I take the old ones and compare to the new will I be able to adjust them by sight? I realize the pressure test is the best way to adjust them its just a curious question i had.

Post by **precopster** » 31 Oct 2014, 15:34

I've always rebuilt my solenoids with the Transgo kit and left the factory adjustment alone.

Recently I put an 01 valve body in an 02 and noticed the solenoids were different even though the valve body part numbers were the same.

The Sonnax catalogue has at least 3 different part numbers for each of the AW55-50SN solenoids. Differences are in the detail.

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 03 Nov 2014, 10:55

Ok Mike so I watched all the YouTube videos I can stand and I took the new solenoids out, adjusted them per specs and reinstalled. Flushed fluid with new and I now I have no reverse, and forward engagement in all gears except reverse! Including park. Drilled the cover and tried adjusting the solenoids but I felt no change. I would like to try to reinstall the old solenoids but somehow the original bracket got lost in the new install. If the old solenoids work that would prove the valve body rebuild good, but at this point I'm not so sure. Only other thing that comes to mind is that Hiram said the black linear solenoid needs 8 turns, because the end cap is fine threaded, i didn't notice if the rostra black is the same thread or finer than the green and blue. I may be able to try again this evening but I'm not sure.

Post by **precopster** » 03 Nov 2014, 11:21

The problems sound line pressure related; not clutch pack seizure as was the case on my '01XC. Putting back old ones may return your shift problems.

Did you do an exact port size matching by eye on new and old? I refer to the ports at the end of the solenoids.

bremraf · Post by **bremraf** » 03 Nov 2014, 11:26

I looked at them and there are differences, but I will get them out again hopefully this afternoon and look everything over again. If they are different sizes on the ports what do I do then? Order another set?