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2000 XCV70 Intake Cam Siezed?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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DatSpool
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Joined: 5 November 2014
Year and Model: XCV70 2000
Location: Canada

2000 XCV70 Intake Cam Siezed?

Post by DatSpool »

After completing a headgasket fix and putting my car back together, it ran fine, but I forgot to replace the sparkplug o-rings and it was leaking oil. Removed cam cover again, replaced o-rings and re-installed, and put the timing belt on. Turned the crank by hand before trying to turn it over and the belt slipped and the timing got off a few notches. This is where I am now, the intake cam is completely seized, the exhaust cam will turn a tiny bit clockwise, but it just springs back when you release it.. The crankshaft will turn with ease but it comes to a deadstop in either direction just before you can make a full rotation. Whats going on? Did I install the cam cover wrong or something? I've been working on this car every day for the past 3 weeks just to get this far and now the timings all messed. Please help :(

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Where is the timing mark on the crankshaft at this stage? If you can get the crankshaft timing mark to the reference mark on the oil pump then you should be able to spin the camshafts a full 360 degrees without interference.

...Lee
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Also, did you lube the cam lobes before putting the cover back on? I recently purchased a car that I believe the previous mechanic failed to do that and the intake cam locked in the head and destroyed it.

Pull the cover back off and lube the lobes properly. No fun but it beats trashing the head and car.
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FLXC90
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Post by FLXC90 »

since you were in the process of placing timing belt, and the crank turns, assume first that the cam is not seized, but mechanically bound by the crank position. Just like when a belt breaks with the engine running. This is why valves get bent. What Ozark Lee was alluding to, is that you can move the crank and cams incrementally, to free them up. It may take a bit of back and forth as cam lobes pass valve stems, but it can be done without removing the head again. I'll look for a recent thread where this was discussed.
--Edit, oh well, it's your old post. Re read what Lee told you.
Visualize the operation of the bottom end (crank, rods, pistons) and the valvetrain. When the crank timing is at the reference mark, all the pistons are low enough that the cams can be rotated without hitting the pistons. In any other position, some interference will occur. What you need to do, is gently turn the cams and crank so that you can sneak the valves through their cycles WITHOUT pressing them on piston tops (like cracking a safe!). As Lee says, you may do a lot of 1/4 turn fwd, 1/2 turn back etc... other option is to pull the head again. oal is to get Crank to safe zone, then set the cams again.
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
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