1997 Volvo 855 GLT "A"-pillar door check plate reinforcement

[jreed]

I started hearing a squeak every time I opened the driver's door. First I inspected the check strap, which often fails (mine failed about three years ago and I replaced it with OEM) but in this it case looked OK. Then as many others have, I noticed the crack in the weld holding the check hinge to the A pillar.
There was a good write up on the repair by bigdaddylee82 about a year ago which helped me out:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=55084
There is also a video on YouTube by Chris Bogue that shows the repair too:


The crack closed up as the door closed, but during opening the stress from the strap makes the crack open up:

Crack in weld visible.jpg (164.46 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

I added a galvanized steel reinforcement plate with self-tapping stainless steel screws to hold the hinge in place. Here is my write up on it:

Since the door has to come off to get access to the a-pillar, be sure to roll down the driver's side window before starting the work so you can hold the door more easily when removing and installing it. You will probably need two people to reinstall the door.

Step 1: Remove the two external torx E8 setscrews from the main hinges:

Undoing Hinge E8 setscrew.jpg (84.44 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 2: Slide the rubber boot over the strap out of the way. Remove the T40 bolt from the check strap to hinge:

Undoing Door Check Bolt T40.jpg (155.37 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 3: (Be sure window is rolled down already). Remove the T10 screw holding the electrical connector:

Loosen and remove T10 on electrical connector.jpg (88 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 4: Twist the connector counterclockwise to remove:

Twist off the electrical connector.jpg (130 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 5: Prepare a clean and dry place to store the the door before you lift off the door. The door is very heavy -- you may need two people to remove (and will need two people to install later).

Lift off door (after rolling down windows).jpg (153.39 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

General view of A pillar:

Overview of hinge area after door removal.jpg (90.63 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

View of cracked hinge:

Cracks in hinge weld.jpg (169.43 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 6: Remove rubber gasket around connector:

Remove rubber gasket.jpg (105.69 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 7: Make a template for the reinforcement plate. I used paper:

Making a template for reinforcement.jpg (89.26 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 8 : I decided to locate the screws at the centers of the welds, plus in three other locations. Transfer the pattern to galvanized steel. I used a standard plate from the hardware store.

Transfer Template to Steel.jpg (127.71 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 9: Cut the steel plate with snips:

Cut Steel with Snips.jpg (131.53 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Test install the plate against the A-pillar to make sure it fits:

Hold steel against door in preparation for marking holes.jpg (121.08 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 10 : Drill 7/64" holes in plate (size depends on the size of the screws you use -- I used #8, 3/4" long, self tapping stainless steel screws):

Drill the holes (7-64" diameter).jpg (163.73 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 11: Transfer hole locations to A pillar:

Hold up plate to mark A-pillar for drilling.jpg (116.37 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 12: Mark the A pillar:

Mark points to drill on A-pillar.jpg (113.13 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 13: Strike the marks with a punch:

Strike the holes on the A-pillar before drilling .jpg (99.78 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 14: Drill the holes in the A pillar:

Drill the holes in the A-pillar with 3-32" bit.jpg (96.38 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 15: I made a second narrower plate to give extra reinforcement and stiffness to the side that had the cracked welds:

Make a second plate for extra stiffness.jpg (113.87 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 16: Clean up any metal shavings to prevent rust later. I applied some white lithium grease to the plates and screws to try to prevent corrosion. Place the plates and install the screws in the holes (don't tighten them up until they're all in place):

Place plates and install #8 3-4" long stainless screws.jpg (107.47 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 17: Tighten up the screws to pull the plate up to the pillar. Go easy and don't overtighten.

Tighten up the screws to pull plate to A-pillar.jpg (95.26 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 18 : Reinstall the rubber gasket around the electrical connector:

Reinstall rubber gasket around electrical connector.jpg (97.82 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 19: Apply some grease to the hinge pins. Rehang the door. A second person to help out here seems required. One person standing outside can do the lifting while a second person sitting inside can guide the pins into the hinges. To fit the door back in the frame we found it was easier when the door was open wide. If you're having trouble getting everything aligned, try changing the opening angle of the door and trying again. In the photo below, after rehanging, the blue arrows show the four areas that need attaching.

Rehang door (with helper).jpg (128.72 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 20: Reattach hinge set screws:

Reinstall E8 hinge set screws.jpg (91.21 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Step 21: Reattach electrical connector and T10 screw, and install T40 check bolt. Push rubber boot back in place.

Reattach connector and T10 screw and T40 check bolt.jpg (122.53 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

Test out the door. On mine the opening and closing felt smooth and the squeaking noise was gone. I did this repair a couple weekends ago and it's still holding up so far... if the self tapping screws pull out I may have to go back in and install nuts and bolts rather than screws.

Good luck!

[scot850]

I admire your ingenuity, but this is a case where I would have gotten a mobile welder to come in and weld the crack after I had dis-assembled for them to get access. My concern is what you mention is having to do the job over if the self tapping screws pull out, with the door putting such a strain on that area. My parents had the same issue with their 850, and 5 years later the welded repair is still good.

Neil.

[FLXC90]

Or if you have the tools, riveting the repair. Stop drilling the ends of the cracks can slow the spread too, and should be the first step in this repair. Also, applying sealer to the backs of the plates. Looks good though, looks like the repairs our sheetmetal guys perform on aircraft.