used s60 which to avoid which to hunt for?

[runabout]

Hello all you wonderful folks.

My 2001 Outback went belly up last week. While I don't have much $ for a replacement car at the moment, I am dang glad I am finally rid of that nightmare!

I am focusing my search on small to midsized sedans with great reliability records and entry level luxury comfort as well as handling. I am 51 year old female, smaller sized and test drove an S60 - might find S40 is a slight bit better fit for my body size but want 81 year old mom to be able to enter and exit with ease and comfort - she is small like me or me like her, I suppose!

The Volvo S60 is at the top of my list !!!
(followed by integra, lexus and maybe an infiniti). The volume of used cars like this in Dayton is not great... so keeping options open.

I am not well versed in cars. Smart but not a mechanic type.

I have discovered that it is best to avoid the 2001 and 2002 S60's due to problematic transmissions.

I am seeking something in the US $ 5500 range, which I believe will cover about 2003 to maybe 2007.

Seeking non-tech input on which years, engines, transmissions etc to avoid and which ones to keep an eye out for.

Also awd or fwd - is one clearly a more reliable one than the other?
Would prefer awd as we get snow and I have to deal with country roads and problematic driveway/garage situation - but if awd is prone to noticeable issues above fwd then I don't want the hassle.

Much appreciate your input!

Clara

[bappat]

I can't give advice about which S60 to get, but I can comment on your price range. After my daughter wrecked her '97 850 after just two months, I just picked up an '03 S60 2.4T for $2000 off of craigslist (private owner). It's in "good" condition with 150K miles, but I test drove a couple ('01 to '03) and none were over $3200.

[chrism]

If one of our kids were to call and say "Dad, my car just blew up," the S60 would be at the top of my list. I think they can be one of the best used car values.

Now are you ready for the simple-minded old timer's opinion..... The more bells and whistles the car has, the greater the chance for problems, especially as the car ages. That goes for ANY car. Turbo will add some get-up-and-go, but it will cost you about 2 MPG and at some point it's going to be an additional maintenance/repair item. AWD is notorious for failing at some point and the repair could cost nearly what you paid for the car. That being said, if you feel you really need AWD, the later cars with the Haldex drive unit are supposedly more reliable than the older versions. I think you have to go around 2003 or newer to get the Haldex - I'm not sure of the exact year. But as you already know, you want to avoid 2001 and probably 2002 anyway due to the trans issue.

When looking at cars, keep in mind the timing belt replacement interval is every 105,000 miles on the 2003-2005ish cars. It will cost you around $500 to have it replaced with the tensioner and a new accessary belt. Add another $100-150 or so if they do the water pump at the same time. If the seller can't prove beyond a doubt that the timing belt has been replaced and the car has over 105,000 then you have no other choice than to replace it right from the get-go. Also pay attention to the condition of the front suspension. You don't want to hear any clunking when going over bumps or turning the steering wheel, nor do you want to see the tires wearing unevenly. Verify that the PCV system is functioning properly. If it isn't you will be looking at a $350-500 service. If you buy a car that needs front end work / timing belt replacement / PCV service, a $3500 car can become a $5500 car real quick. Make sure all the heater and A/C controls work properly. Make sure all the windows and door locks work right. If it doesn't come with 2 key fobs, negotiate the price down. Good luck!

[runabout]

Thanks to both of you!
Old timer I agree on bells and whistles. A friend turned me on to her Volvo specialist mechanic. He said he does used car inspections for $80 and he really likes the S60's so I feel like I am making a good choice.

Good to know about the awd... given it is a Swedish car, I imagine it might be quite capable on snowy icy inclines with FWD and some snow tires... I don't need turbo, so I can forgo that.

So if I get one close to 200k, I am going to need to do the timing belt again, if it was done at 105k?

Thanks for the advice on the key fobs... apparently they are about $400 - crazy.

Glad I have a trusted Volvo specialist mechanic to look it over and give me the skinny!

I am guessing that 400k is a reasonable life for a maintained Volvo? Perhaps more?

Thanks again and anyone else who has wisdom to add I will greatly accept to save the $80 inspection fee on a engine or year that is a crap shoot.

[oragex]

Volvo drive lovely when all wear parts have been replaced, but they can be a money trap for someone that is not at all used with the mechanics. At 100k miles all wear things start to go. The cheapest way is to get good aftermarket parts off ebay (Meyle is a good inexpensive brand, for example, and there are also plenty of cheap used parts sold by salvage yards) and to have them installed by a small trustful local garage. That's how many owners keep the running costs low.

2002-2003 have the instrument cluster issue (all will die one day or another) - $150 repair on Ebay
Best is to look at a 2004+, non turbo, as other mentioned with the PCV done, no oil pressure light, smooth working transmission, already replaced front control arms, if possible also replaced 4 shock absorbers.

An Integra is kind of old and usually has had many owners. Hondas have strong engines and electronics, but most wear parts don't last long. Some Lexus (higher end ones) have good reviews, but are more expensive second hand (and drink). I've read a few good things about the G35 (which also drinks a lot), but again, past 100k miles the repairs will start to pile up and it's not a cheap car to repair.

[runabout]

Thanks oragex!

will limit to 2004+ nonturbo and will ensure the trusted independent volvo shop checks it out. he only charges $80 to inspect pre-purchase. Might double up and have one of the dealer shops check the one I find as well and compare notes... seems like a well invested $220!

I have also concluded the integra is a no go.

Do you know of any issues with the 2006 S60? for some reason I feel like I read that is one that has some problem that is fairly consistent... but my mind is mush from all the car reviews I have been reading on the various models!

[otis44]

These cars are like any european car with some age, they are only as good as they have been cared for. Buy the newest, best condition, best maintained car you can afford. Not alot of difference between 05-09 and not much difference in the 04 models except cosmetic changes. I'm not aware of any glaring problems for the 06 model and am not aware of any major issues from 03-04 forward. The non turbo variant was dropped after 2005 if I recall correctly. The turbo/non-turbo issue to me would not be a deciding factor on purchase. If properly maintained (oil changes) these turbos are fairly problem free and the non-turbo is somewhat of a dog to drive in my opinion.

These Volvo models have some quirks (ie; electrical and suspension) and the maintenance is probably going to cost you more than a comparable Toyota Camry or Honda Accord, but that's the trade-off whether you are driving a Volvo, Bimmer, VW or about any other Euro car for that matter. Good luck in your search.

[oragex]

Wanted to mention, I said non turbo because the turbo doesn't add too much (except the lager 2.5T one) for someone that doesn't drive it hard. I drive a non turbo and the engine is quick enough - by no means sporty though. Turbo models in Volvo are very reliable, but be aware that some of the T5 engines could have been driven hard by their (young) owners.

Didn't hear about particular issues with the 2004-2009 years. I think 2003-2005 (more or less) still had sensitive transmissions, not sure when were the solenoids upgraded (the sensitive part inside the transmission). Those are the later years of the early 2001 model, so Volvo did fix most of the issues present in the first production years. However, in a 100k car, as mentioned, wear components (belts, pulleys, suspension bushings, shock absorbers, brakes) are often times in need to be replaced.

[draser]

An old car is just that, and in Volvo's case it takes expensive maintenance. Very expensive according to the forums. To change a pcv system, which is an wear item, one has to take half engine apart hence the cost. From a comfort standpoint it's cramped for a 6' person and there's not much of a back seat. Does not like cold weather since it vibrates, squeaks, but it comes from Sweden. Can't turn right if you have the "sports package" i.e. wide tires. I like turbo power, otherwise it's an old design car. And if you get into 4 wheel drive you're adding wood to the fire. My Accord has more room, more comfort, better reliability and decent handling, not to mention gas mileage. My wife's having the sports package has better handling and probably better pick up than my S60. I need to race her one day. Why did I buy Volvo - I do all repairs myself and like quircky cars. And price was good. Welcome to the forum!

[combatkarl]

Just an opinion on the AWD. Living in MN I see plenty of snow and ice, but I will not own an AWD vehicle (except the possibility of a full size truck or Jeep) due to the added expense. However, I do buy winter tires for each of my vehicles. It is a one time expense vs repair of AWD system. The difference between dedicated winter tires and "all-season" tires is amazing. The wife and teenagers really notice the difference if I'm a little slow in swapping tires.