2001 XC Rack and Pinion and in need of general advice

[jb1882]

Ok, so I will start with the current issue.
I just brought my car in for some steering problems (starting to steer hard began as very slight two months ago).
I brought it into a VIP.
They told me the car is in need of a new rack & pinion. The cost will be close to $2000.0

The car has 260,000 miles.
Two months ago, I brought the car into a volvo mechanic. The car was due for inspection. He said the steering problem was the U Joint and needed some other work. One of the "other" works was to replace rotors. He said the same thing last year when the car was due for inspection but his partner said rotors were fine …. so I brought the car to VIP and had them measure the rotors and they said rotors are still fine …. but they said needed other work.
I put 1200 or so into the car. At the time they thought the steering issue was simply an alignment.
Well … it was not.

Now of course it is a major job.
I do not know if I should trust their judgement.

So I am considering going back to my old Volvo mechanic (I stopped seeing him for a while as he was rebuilding his business)
I trust his judgment.
I am also considering it may be time for a new car (used).

I was really hoping to hold onto my current Volvo till 300,000 or until transmission goes.

I just came across a site that sells refurb rack & pinion
http://shop.rackdoctor.net/VOLVO_c395.h ... 7AodXT8AVA
Does anyone know about this site? Are they reputable?

Here are my questions.

Is $2000 typical for rack and pinion replacement?
Do most folks go new or rebuilt?

At this point (260,000 miles) is it better to just look into a car with fewer miles?

Any other advise?

Thanks

J

[oragex]

I remember having an issue with a drivers side ball joint, and three garages in a row were willing to replace the steering rack. Not saying it's the same scenario, but it's good to get a second opinion.

Yes, the steering rack can fail on this car. To replace it, best bet it to get a used one (not refurbished), and to have it inspected at the inner tie rod (see bellow). A used should run a few hundreds and the labor another $3-400 plus the geometry.

So have yours checked by a good mechanic at the dust boot (the black plastic boots each side of the rack). Look if the boot is teared, if fluid leaks by the boot, ultimately remove the larger boot clamp and look inside at the rack for rust or fluid leaking. That's how a rack is checked. Always replace the boot clamp with an Oeticker clamp, nothing else or the rack will rust and start leaking.

If the brake fluid is getting low in the reservoir, you may want to check all the above. Also check the front brake flexible hoses at the wheel, for cracking.

Even if it looses fluid at the steering rack (shot seals), if it doesn't leak too much, it will still go on for a while, so no need to replace asap.

As for the stiff rack, the most common cause is indeed the lower steering coupler. It gets stiff. Your first mechanic may have only use some lubricant to ease the rotation of the coupler. It's quick to disconnect the upper part of the coupler so to be able to check it by hand. If it's seized, it needs replaced.

Also flush/replace the steering fluid with the right specs (synthetic Prestone for european cars should be fine, I believe).

Pass a finger through the wheel spikes and touch the center of the brake rotor near the friction surface and feel how deep the friction surface has worn (compared to the rusted surface). If it's close to 1/8" it's time to replace the rotor.

[jb1882]

Thank you for your reply.

Also re :"Even if it looses fluid at the steering rack (shot seals), if it doesn't leak too much, it will still go on for a while, so no need to replace asap."

This was my next question.
At what point will I know it is really time to act?

I will replace fluid this w/e and schedule an appt with my old mechanic for another opinion.

Thanks again.

[oragex]

It somehow depends on how much fluid you're adding. It's more a thing of not spending too much on fluid. Fluid is also known to leak at the lower reservoir hose, and at the steering pump shaft (none of which should be a serious concern).